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Frame/Suspension/Brake... Talk & Q&A All things... Frame/Suspension/Brake

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  #11  
Old 05-17-2017, 12:02 AM
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Can you show us a pic of the brake pedal lever arrangement? Everybody is trying to help but let's start at the cheap and easy stuff before changing MCs and WCs. We could maybe try the lever ratio change without spending a cent. If this set up worked before, it's not likely it won't work now with a little trouble shooting.
When I assembled the brake system on the 31. I started with a mis-match similar to some of the suggestions on this thread, regarding bore size of the MC and WC and type of brakes, drums/disks, etc. I brought a mis-matched system into good working order with just a lever change on the pedal. Mine is 1" MC. 1- 1/8" Front WC, 3/4" rear WC. on manual drums. I have plenty brakes with a little longer pedal and shorter throw where the MC rod hits the lever, increasing the pressure ratio.
Anyway, that's a cool little tractor. Those shoes look like regular C-10 style brake shoes like the suburban. You could eliminate your thoughts of that with a simple shoe change and if you really want to be good on it, find some new drums or have the existing ones turned. Something simple is causing this if they worked before...

Last edited by smallfoot; 05-17-2017 at 12:14 AM.
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  #12  
Old 05-17-2017, 01:21 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by smallfoot View Post
Can you show us a pic of the brake pedal lever arrangement? Everybody is trying to help but let's start at the cheap and easy stuff before changing MCs and WCs. We could maybe try the lever ratio change without spending a cent. If this set up worked before, it's not likely it won't work now with a little trouble shooting.
Certainly



Quote:
Originally Posted by smallfoot View Post
When I assembled the brake system on the 31. I started with a mis-match similar to some of the suggestions on this thread, regarding bore size of the MC and WC and type of brakes, drums/disks, etc. I brought a mis-matched system into good working order with just a lever change on the pedal. Mine is 1" MC. 1- 1/8" Front WC, 3/4" rear WC. on manual drums. I have plenty brakes with a little longer pedal and shorter throw where the MC rod hits the lever, increasing the pressure ratio.
Anyway, that's a cool little tractor. Those shoes look like regular C-10 style brake shoes like the suburban. You could eliminate your thoughts of that with a simple shoe change and if you really want to be good on it, find some new drums or have the existing ones turned. Something simple is causing this if they worked before...
Thanks for this info. If I'm going to get back into the wheels, I'll probably get new shoes for the peace of mind.

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Originally Posted by BlueNorther View Post
just looked on RockAuto's site and the rear wheel cylinders for a 1972 Suburban are speced at 1", same as your M/C.

you would need a large brake pedal ratio to operate the system.

I would find a 3/4" bore M/C, which would give you way more leverage.
Thanks for looking that up. I still have the old wheel cylinders- they measure in at 1Ē.

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Originally Posted by sneakysnake View Post
When you replaced the wheel cyl did you keep the same bore? Thing is you want as big as you can get there and small at the master cyl ,without a booster.
I appreciate your advice. Would going larger on the wheel cylinders have a similar effect as going smaller on the MC? For sentimental reasons I like to keep visible parts of the tractor original (only if I can, of course).

Thanks again everyone, your input has been really helpful.
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  #13  
Old 05-17-2017, 01:43 PM
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To test the longer lever theory, clamp a large pair of vise grips on that brake lever and give yourself a longer lever. Go out to the end and see if you can get better action at the wheel.
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  #14  
Old 05-17-2017, 07:55 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by SnowStorm34 View Post

For sentimental reasons I like to keep visible parts of the tractor original (only if I can, of course).
Your grandfather should be well satisfied to know, you haven't "let it go to rack and ruin". (Make the necessary changes and his spirit is well kept.)

I would also try to increase the pedal ratio, working with what you have...

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  #15  
Old 05-18-2017, 12:24 AM
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[QUOTE=SnowStorm34;



I appreciate your advice. Would going larger on the wheel cylinders have a similar effect as going smaller on the MC? For sentimental reasons I like to keep visible parts of the tractor original (only if I can, of course).

Thanks again everyone, your input has been really helpful. [/QUOTE]

Yes, If you can get bigger wheel cyl it should help.
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  #16  
Old 05-18-2017, 03:38 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Crankenstein View Post
Your grandfather should be well satisfied to know, you haven't "let it go to rack and ruin". (Make the necessary changes and his spirit is well kept.)

I would also try to increase the pedal ratio, working with what you have...
.
I appreciate you saying this. This tractor has a lot of sentimental value to it. Iíd like to keep it running, but I'd also like to keep my own finger prints off it as much as I can.


Quote:
Originally Posted by smallfoot View Post
To test the longer lever theory, clamp a large pair of vise grips on that brake lever and give yourself a longer lever. Go out to the end and see if you can get better action at the wheel.
Thanks for the idea! I gave it a shot. I still wasnít able to lock up the wheels. Though in all fairness I was a little nervous putting the massive amount of pressure as I usually would on the vice grips.

Speaking of zero dollar fixes, maybe did I adjust the brakes improperly? I got them to a point where they started to drag and then backed them off slightly.

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Originally Posted by sneakysnake View Post
Yes, If you can get bigger wheel cyl it should help.
Thanks for confirming this. If I end up going back into the brakes Iíll look into getting something bigger.
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  #17  
Old 05-18-2017, 03:54 PM
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I own a 63 Fordson super Dexta and there`s no way I can lock up the brakes...
Emergency stop would involve lifting my butt off the seat and stand on the pedal. I bet I`m quicker 0-25mph than 25-0 tho....
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  #18  
Old 05-21-2017, 06:03 PM
BlueNorther BlueNorther is offline
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the proper way to adjust those bakes, is to adjust them tight so the wheel can't be rotated then back them off 6 or so "clicks" keeping the adjustment identical for both sides.

the wheels should rotate freely with just a hint of drag noise. most people just adjust them tighter til they hear dragging sounds, but the problem with that is only one shoe may be moving and start dragging on the drum and the other shoe is hanging up with a bunch of clearance. by adjusting them until the wheel won't turn, you know they are evenly adjusted.

the adjustment must be made with the wheels on.
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  #19  
Old 05-23-2017, 04:33 PM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by dutch View Post
I own a 63 Fordson super Dexta and there`s no way I can lock up the brakes...
Emergency stop would involve lifting my butt off the seat and stand on the pedal. I bet I`m quicker 0-25mph than 25-0 tho....
I guess if I have one thing going for me, itís that I top out around 12mph haha

Quote:
Originally Posted by BlueNorther View Post
the proper way to adjust those bakes, is to adjust them tight so the wheel can't be rotated then back them off 6 or so "clicks" keeping the adjustment identical for both sides.

the wheels should rotate freely with just a hint of drag noise. most people just adjust them tighter til they hear dragging sounds, but the problem with that is only one shoe may be moving and start dragging on the drum and the other shoe is hanging up with a bunch of clearance. by adjusting them until the wheel won't turn, you know they are evenly adjusted.

the adjustment must be made with the wheels on.
Thanks for the tip! Iíll try this next. Based on this I may have under adjusted them.
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  #20  
Old 05-27-2017, 10:57 AM
Spooner Spooner is offline
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You could change the pedal ratio by lowering the MC in the bracket and lowering the rod on the pedal by the same amount.
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