Elegant decay aka the "Ratty Caddy."

[Torchie]

Originally Posted by zzrodder

HA, HA, love to know the story on that shredded spare tire

Indeed zz. I was just preoccupied with finding the full set of 53 Wheel covers.
Fodder for build funds.

Originally Posted by smallfoot

Torchie, I've been using straight linseed oil on my 31 and it was intentionally rusted when I built it. Besides the smell, I have no problems with it. I do it about 3 times a year. Very easy to apply. I do it with a shop cloth and make sure you cover it all and rub it in. Then come back thru with dry cloth and take the excess off. Down here it will dry within an hour or so and you can make it shine a little with some buffing. Mines not all that smooth so I skip that part...
Im fixing to do mine again. I'll post before and after shots somewhere.

That seems to be the product of choice Smallfoot.
Mrs T even suggested adding a bit of Beeswax to it. Hmmm.
Not like I don't have about 50 LBS of it here.
We will see.
Any one else care to share what they use. If anything?
Thanks.
Torchie

[smallfoot]

Originally Posted by Torchie

Indeed zz. I was just preoccupied with finding the full set of 53 Wheel covers.
Fodder for build funds.



That seems to be the product of choice Smallfoot.
Mrs T even suggested adding a bit of Beeswax to it. Hmmm.
Not like I don't have about 50 LBS of it here.
We will see.
Any one else care to share what they use. If anything?
Thanks.
Torchie

I used beeswax mixed in for a while, but couldn't see any difference in look or time it lasted...

[Torchie]

Originally Posted by smallfoot

I used beeswax mixed in for a while, but couldn't see any difference in look or time it lasted...

Thanks for that info. Smallfoot.
Torchie

[Bamamav]

Just make sure not to dispose of any linseed soaked rags without completely drying them first. That stuff will self ignite. Ryan on the HAMB like to have lost his shop on account of them

[Torchie]

Originally Posted by Bamamav

Just make sure not to dispose of any linseed soaked rags without completely drying them first. That stuff will self ignite. Ryan on the HAMB like to have lost his shop on account of them

Yep Bama. Highly flammable. Ive used it for years when i was buying and selling antique furniture. I never throw any shop rags in the trash.
I lay them outside the shop until there are good and vented.
Just one more reason to look hard at the Popys Patina. If i do anything at all.
Thanks for the reminder though.
Torchie

[charliebob]

[QUOTE=Torchie; i
Any one else care to share what they use. If anything?
Thanks.
Torchie[/QUOTE]

Here is a link to experiments I did a while back.

http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=38490

FWIW, My preference would be to initially go over it with CLR with a medium Scotch bride pad on a random orbital sander. It really brings out color under the rust. After that, I prefer PB Blaster sprayed on with excess wiped off. Easy and fast. Treat every few months. If you prefer shiney patina, this is not for you!

[Torchie]

Thanks for the info charliebob.
Ill have to revisit your thread.
Torchie

[DozerII]

Really cool car Torchie, on the Dodge I use DexIII ATF about three times a year.

[05snopro440]

I've tried a few different things and seen other products I haven't tried.

I was at the Goodguys show in Spokane in 2014, there was a sweet 55 Chevy Pickup (photos attached) that was done with Linseed Oil. I don't know what went wrong, it looked sweet from afar but there was dust stuck to it.

For what I've tried:
1. CLR and a scotch Brite - Works great to remove surface rust and oxidation as a first step and bring a lot of life and colour back.
2. Wet Sanding - Works great in areas with corrosion over paint to really bring back the paint.
3. Power polishing - The key is to use a product that doesn't turn white or cloudy (usually something polymer-based). I found this worked well on my truck, but eventually the sheen and protection faded and gave a chalky appearance, especially on bare metal areas.
4. Patina Sauce - A relatively new product and not cheap, but it works great. It is oil-based, but they give instructions for if you want to remove it. You're supposed to have to apply it a couple times a year, and it gave my truck a nice sheen, got rid of the chalkiness, and really deepened the colour. I'm a fan so far. Water beads right off.

Other products I've seen but haven't tried:
-Eastwood Patina Preserver - Kind of like a clear coat. You mask the car, spray it on, but it needs reapplication as well.
-Linseed oil - Haven't been pleased with the look on vehicles I've seen that have had it done.
-Clear coat - Expecting good adhesion to old patina is a recipe for a repaint in my opinion.

[lowbudget50]

How did I miss this????!!!!???? Beautiful!!!!