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Just gonna cold clamp the bow Torchie?

Undecided smallfoot. [S
I need to plane down the stock a little more to get the correct finished thickness, so that will help with the bend. Each layer will be just under 1/2" in thickness.
I will do a trial bend once I get the blocks clamped down.
I did pull my old steam chamber out of the pile yesterday just in case I need to steam bend them. I may just steam them first to relax them and have less chance of spring back or cracking.
This is a main structural point that takes a beating so I want it as strong as possible.
I want the layers to be as thick as possible due to the amount of screws that will end up in it.
Every restorer has their opinions on Laminating vs steam bending full stock vs cutting full stock in a curve. With thick planks getting harder and harder to come by, many are going to lamination. Which has been used for many years now.
Torchie
 
The glues are getting better for laminating too...those being less than 1/2 may bend ok without help.

After much measuring I decided that I need a full 2" in width for this piece so I planed the 4 planks down to exactly 1/2" thick each.
Built the form and lagged it to the bench top. I pulled out the thunder gun for that part. [ddd
I will be steaming and pre bending each layer of wood. Clamping together all four to the form were they will stay and dry for a few days.
I will then apply marine grade epoxy between the plys and re clamp them to the form where they will stay for 4 or 5 days to insure a total cure.
I feel that steaming and pre bending is the best way to insure minimal stress to the wood.
This piece has many curves and angles to it. I will literally be carving a new one out of the laminated piece.
Or so I hope.....:eek: [ddd
Torchie
 

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Getting ready to cook some wood.
Not exactly what I went to Culinary arts school for...:eek: [ddd :D
Torchie
 

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Quick over view of steam bending wood.

Not a precise science but there are lots of "Rules of thumb."
Standard steam time is considered to be 1 hour at full steam per inch of thickness. These planks were 1/2" so I went with 30 mins.
Temp should show 212 F which is boiling for water. My new thermometer showed about 200 but it hasn't been calibrated.
Steam should come out the end like a tea kettle.
Wood should be supported in the chamber so that the steam can surround all sides of it.
Yes the wood is hot when it comes out of the chamber so wear gloves.
I had to do this in 2 batches of 2 planks each instead of one batch but the end results were the same.
Like most of us I work alone so my extra pair of hands were the 2 outer blocks screwed to the bench top.
I put the one end of the planks against the inside of the outer block and was able to bend the other end of the 2 planks around the form. Held the other end with one hand while clamping with the other.
Second verse was same as the first.
Thanks for stopping by....
Torchie
 

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Doesn't mater if it's wood or metal necessity is the mother of invention, :D not sure why they call them just turkey friers.:rolleyes: Great job Torchie
 
And they're cheaper to fill with water for steam than they are filling full of peanut oil to fry a turkey...[ddd:D
 
Doesn't mater if it's wood or metal necessity is the mother of invention, :D not sure why they call them just turkey friers.:rolleyes: Great job Torchie

And they're cheaper to fill with water for steam than they are filling full of peanut oil to fry a turkey...[ddd:D

Thanks Gang!
I'm a low tech kind of guy.:eek::eek:
If you look on wooden boat sites most people build a steam generator or buy one from sauna or a spa. Low end if you build one is about $250. High end if you buy one $400 and up.
Plus they usually require 220 service as well as a constant water source.
Mine costs about $60.00. As I have no water in my shop and in the winter the outside hoses are all turned off, I came up with this.
I can steam for about 2 hours with out a refill. It's portable and I can still fry a turkey if I want to....:D
When the times comes that I need to steam the wider planks for bending I will just build a bigger chamber out of 2" blue board and Caulk it all together with Hi-Temp caulk.
Torchie
 
Spent Saturday morning digging out the donor 292 y-block Interceptor engine.
Glad we didn't have to move that tree trunk.:eek: :cool: :D
Torchie
 

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What kind of fuel delivery is this???
:cool::cool::cool:

attachment.php

Those are side draft Carters OI. Standard style carbs for the Ford Y-block Interceptor engines. I imagine the design was predicated by the need for a low profile Carb/manifold for engine hatch clearance.
I have heard of guys running them in cars but not sure how as the intake manifold is designed for a open Marine engine cooling system . No radiator.
The open hole you see by the dist. is where the flame arrester fits.
I posted a better pic below.

I'll bet there is some pretty wood on that burl log.

Skip. That trunk was about 18' long and had a series of burls on it. each smaller as they went towards the top.
I will have to ask my buddy what species of tree it is.
Torchie.
 

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Todays lesson in "Better wood boating thru chemistry."

Laminated the wood for the new transom bow today.
West system epoxy with a little thickener added. Industry standard for marine work.
Buttered both side of the sandwiched boards. Stack accordingly and then clamp. Not too tight but firmly.
I will leave this in the form for about a week to insure a total cure. Better too long then not long enough.:eek:
Thanks for checking up on me.......
Torchie
 

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How do you keep it from sticking to your table/jig?

If you look at the bench top in the first pic you will see where I laid down multiple layers of packing tape rvreddog. It looks glossy. I also wrapped the form blocks as well as the clamping blocks. Anything that I think will come in contact with the epoxy. I touched on this part of it a few posts back I think.[S
Some people just lay down a sheet of plastic over everything but I find that to be a hassle.
Torchie
 

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