I got that flathead running but have some questions.

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maddog

Here he comes to save the day!
Joined
May 13, 2007
Messages
864
Location
SFV Southern California
I built a stand and fired up the flathead today.
Its a 49-53 ford block and intake with a Merc crank and heads.
It sat outside for a couple months and it had rained slightly once.
I pulled one head and measured the stroke.
I noticed that the #2 intake valve was open and signs of water in that cylinder.
I cleaned it out and put the head back on and fired it up.
It ran but no compression in #2 and #6 cylinders.
These cylinders are across from each other.

I havnt taken the intake off yet so I dont know whats going on down there with the cam and valves.

You who are so wise in the ways of flatheads, what do I do now?

I also got the top loader 3 speed (torque tube) with it.
Can you tell me about that.

Thanks as allways-
 
It is possible that the valves that were open were stuck open from water damage:(. There really isnt a good way to free them up, but the way that works for me is to use some marvel mystery oil and pour it behind the valve that is stuck in the up position and tap on it gently back into its seat. If its the lifter that is stuck, then the valve needs to come out and the lifter tapped back into place or pulled out and replaced. Please avoid the torch at all costs, as it winds up wrecking more things than it fixes. A lack of patience will ruin a potentially good runner, so take your time, it may take a while for it to come in, but when it does, it will be good.

As for the toploader three and torque tube drivetrain, behind the flattie it will be just fine. That trans will handle a whole bunch more power than the flattie will produce. Plus it looks pretty cool too. There are kits available to convert these transmissions to open drive lines, if the torque tube and banjo rear end are not available. Off the top of my head, I cant remember the names of the companies that make the kits, sorry.
 
Probably stuck valves. Pull the heads and tap the offending valves down using a blunt punch so you don't bend the valve with an off-center blow. Some good penetrating oil will help. You may have to do this quite a few times before it loosens up. There's very little oil flow in the valley on a flattie, they are prone to this happening.
If you can find a valve tool, a bar that has a fork on the end to engage the springs, it makes the job easier, you can pop the valve open and closed without turning the engine over on the starter.
 
Thanks for the info fellow flatties.

I am kinda liking this motor.:D

As I understand it, the ford block has to be line bored to take the merc crank. Correct?

Also, I havnt put water in it yet because I have no radiator with 2 ins and outs.
Can I make a couple Y's for the radiator hoses and use another radiator on my test stand?

There was no water in the oil and no signs of oil in the radiator from the car it came out of.
How concerned about the block being cracked should I be?

What should my procedure for confirming this be?


Thanks
 
Unless the machine shop knows and I mean really knows flatties, a line bore isnt needed or recommended. I have three flatties on the shelf that were line bored and they are junk because the shop that did them thought they knew what they were doing. I bought the ruined engines for parts from the folks that had the work done.

You can Y off the hoses for the radiator, but flatties dont have very good flow to start with due to low pressure water pumps and intricate water passages inside the block. Running it for very long like that isnt recommended.

If the block is cracked through to the water jacket it wont take very long of running it to confirm this. Look for white antifreeze smoke and or water pouring out of the exhaust pipes. A good machine shop can repair the crack provided it isnt huge or has broken away completely from the block. I have one flattie that is cracked, but unless you really look for it, its invisible. Until antifreeze is in the engine, then it becomes apparent that there is a problem. Another way to tell without running it would be to fill it up with coolant and pressurize the system. Not too much pressure now as the systems were not designed for it. It should hold say 8 to 10 pounds of pressure for at least a couple of hours. If it doesnt make sure your hoses are good and such, before assuming the worst.

Flatties are fun little engines to work on and are cool in darn near any rod ever built. What are your plans for it as far as speed parts go?
 
I dont have any plans yet. I do like this little enging though. I am building a 38 steel body Topolino (check past posts for pictures)in the near future and am still collecting parts. It isnt gona be the classic drag car, more of a low long ratrod if you will. Dont know if this is the correct motor for this car, but my wheels are turning.

I didnt know that the cracks, if there are any, could be repaired. Thats good news. I also dont know for sure it it has been line bored, a friend of mine told me that it had to be to put the merc crank in.

So I bought this motor just to have it. I picked it up yesterday because I wanted to take it the my Wed night car club meeting and show and tell. On the way home I stopped for gas cause I was almost empty (no gas gauge). I had put the motor on a piece of plywood that was covering the gas filler spout in my truck. I stressed out driving home and then back to my shop in the morning. I now needed to get it out to put gas in my truck so I built a stand to roll it around the shop. 3hrs, not bad. Then I got to messing around with it, put the head back on, added the transmission, got a 12v coil, hooked up a battery and little gas tank and after spending all day, 2 of us, it was running. :D:D
 
Motor stuck

I had A flathead six that had the same problem
I filled it up with diesel fuel all the way to the top
And then I toke the plugs out and filled the cylinders up to the top
I then let it set for a few weeks and with the plugs out using the starter I turned it over for about 5 Min
Then I drained it refilled it with oil and drove it for about 6 years before it was sold
It worked for me it mite work for you:cool:
 
I had A flathead six that had the same problem
I filled it up with diesel fuel all the way to the top
And then I toke the plugs out and filled the cylinders up to the top
I then let it set for a few weeks and with the plugs out using the starter I turned it over for about 5 Min
Then I drained it refilled it with oil and drove it for about 6 years before it was sold
It worked for me it mite work for you:cool:

Ya know, I like that. It sounds like the motor would like it too. Great Idea.:cool:

My wife likes mud baths. Sort of the same, I think.
 
You don't have to line bore it to put the 4" crank in, but you might have to grind a bit on the block to get clearance for the longer stroke.
Some cracks, like the ones from the center water hole to the nearest bolt hole, are nothing to wory about. Any cracks in the bores, valley, or ports are serious.
 

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