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Transmission, Rear End... Talk & Q&A! Tranny, rear end, drivetrain related stuff... shift it... grind it... pop da clutch!

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  #11  
Old 11-27-2021, 08:01 PM
Couper Couper is offline
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Hey Bob

I'll have the drive shaft on Monday and will be able to get an accurate number on my drive shaft angle. Right now I'm playing with a piece of tubing but I do think my numbers are close.

I'm thinking I'll be 2.0 on the tail shaft / 3.5 on the drive shaft angle and 2.0 on the pinion for a 1.5 angle on both joints.

So as the judge sometimes says....******** next case! And I'm on to my next challenge. Seeing ZZ's steering component pics made me want to take a look at my steering box and stuff. Pretty easy assembling it but of course my input shaft on the vega steering box falls right on my motor mount. Not on the rubber but on the metal fabrication. I'm thinking I will bore a hole thru it and weld in a piece of heavy wall DOM to make a tunnel if you will. Actually looking at it again, a 2" aluminum mounting block would push it away from the frame and motor mount. Maybe that's a better option. You guys see anything wrong with the front end works?

Some pictures attached.....

Going to watch some TV with the boss lady....she asked me what my name was when I came in to eat tonight....lol
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  #12  
Old 11-27-2021, 11:28 PM
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MercuryMac MercuryMac is offline
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Bob, I can't correct you when you're right all of the time. Some motors have their carb bosses at three degrees so when the motor is tipped back the carb sits level. Of course, flathead fords with three deuce manifolds don't have those slanty bosses so the carbs lean back if the motor leans back. Those Holley type carbs from that era don't work well leaning back so you have to make wedge risers under each carb to stand them up.

Coup, I think you've got the driveline figured out.
I like the tunnel idea, too.
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  #13  
Old 11-27-2021, 11:33 PM
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I level the carb pad front to back and side to side, then build mounts to suit. Whatever angle the trans tailshaft ends up being, I rotate the pinion the same amount in the opposite direction with full rear weight on the springs.

As to your steering, I'd just take a "C" notch out of the mount. You could box the C, but it wouldn't be necessary unless the motor mount gets real thin on the end.
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  #14  
Old 11-28-2021, 02:46 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MercuryMac View Post
Bob, I can't correct you when you're right all of the time. Some motors have their carb bosses at three degrees so when the motor is tipped back the carb sits level. Of course, flathead fords with three deuce manifolds don't have those slanty bosses so the carbs lean back if the motor leans back. Those Holley type carbs from that era don't work well leaning back so you have to make wedge risers under each carb to stand them up.

Coup, I think you've got the driveline figured out.
I like the tunnel idea, too.
I'd like to know 10% of what Bob knows....

My carb mounts, distributor boss, damper, and tail shaft angle are all on the same angle.....

That drive line jazz burnt up a lot of brain ram on me but yes I think I'm on track.

Cool Beans on the tunnel.....I'll be on that and the trans cross member tomorrow.

Now if I could only fall asleep
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  #15  
Old 11-28-2021, 02:50 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bamamav View Post
I level the carb pad front to back and side to side, then build mounts to suit. Whatever angle the trans tailshaft ends up being, I rotate the pinion the same amount in the opposite direction with full rear weight on the springs.

As to your steering, I'd just take a "C" notch out of the mount. You could box the C, but it wouldn't be necessary unless the motor mount gets real thin on the end.
Thanks Bama...I'm gona work on that mount tomorrow. Do you know if that input shaft to the box is suposed to be level or angled up? I believe the shaft is parallel to the pitman arm.
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  #16  
Old 11-28-2021, 10:58 AM
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I don't think it matters too much if it's level or pointing up a few degrees, I don't think you would want the shaft to point downward though. The grease in the box should recirculate, but if the shaft was down it looks like it might want to walk out the seal with gravity pulling against it, but that's just my thoughts.

I would definitely keep the box bolted as close to the frame rail as possible. Any spacer puts more stress on the mounting bolts, and they are under enough stress already. I had to put a 1/4" spacer under one of the pads on my Saginaw power box because it sat higher than the body of the box. That kept my box about 1/8" or less off the frame. Without the spacer, the box body sat against the frame and would wiggle just a bit when turning, the spacer under the pad stabilized it, no more wiggle. Yours looks like it sits flat on the mounting pads, so you should be good.
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  #17  
Old 11-28-2021, 11:32 AM
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Thanks Bama

Point up a bit....got it.

Due to where the shaft falls I decided to make a 1" mounting block. It will bring the shaft out and give me plenty of clearance. It'll actually be 1 1/16 towards the rear and 1" in the front so the input shaft will be straight left to right. (I have a full machine shop at my work place) It'll be the exact size of the mounting plate for the box. The 1" block will get welded to the frame rail. It'll be solid and even maybe strengthen the rail at the attachment site.

Was gona make an aluminum block but then it has to be bolted and here comes that wiggle...

Thanks again for being on the other side of the keyboard...
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  #18  
Old 12-01-2021, 02:19 AM
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Well I'm still at this. I got my drive shaft today....fit's nice. With the angle I have on my drive shaft 3.7, the 3 degrees down on the tail shaft (high at the motor / low at the tail shaft) and 3 degrees at the pinion (low at the pumpkin high at the drive shaft connection) gives me bad u-joint angles.

I thought I was ok tonight with Tail Shaft 1.9 degrees down (front higher the the rear), Drive shaft angle 3.8 (front higher than the rear) and pinion 2.0 (low at the pumpkin high at the drive shaft connection) and that is giving me operating angles of 1.9 and 1.8. And was ready to go to bed....


I have a friend that said I need 5 degrees at my pinion. I believe if I move my pinion that much it's going to change my drive shaft angle and throw all the numbers off. This guy is pretty spot on but I want to make sure I have his right.

You guys have any additional input for me on the 1.9 & 2.0 numbers?

Sorry & Thanks!
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  #19  
Old 12-01-2021, 12:03 PM
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05snopro440 05snopro440 is offline
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It sounds like both your u-joint angles are in the right range. I have no idea why your friend is telling you that you need 5 degrees. On the surface, it sounds like really bad advice. He may be trying to say that you need to account for pinion movement under load, but if your angles are already that good I say leave it there and double check it again once the truck is fully assembled with all weight on it and a full tank of gas.
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  #20  
Old 12-01-2021, 01:22 PM
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Thanks snopro. It has something to do with the pinion and tails haft not being parallel.
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