I Honestly built engines like this... and they lived!
Rod and main bearings...wear was even. a little more on the rod side from combustion pressure but no evidence of bent rods or distorted rod ends...
paint the bearings with old leaded silver paint and re-use them..
no just kidding!!!
as long as the wear looks even and the crank is not too badly scored it is serviceable without grinding. It might be a loose fit but new bearings on an old crank will run at least as good as the old bearings.
if the crank isn't chewed up and is only lightly scored you can hand polish the journals smooth with strips of Emory cloth just make sure to do it evenly all the way around.
If the crank is smooth already dont mess with it.
I had a 77 camaro 350 that was over revved for an extended period. A friend of mine was being chased by other dudes shooting at him on a 3 hour chase speeds exceeding 130 mph. It had slightly oblonged rod ends but the bolts were still good. it would rattle when the oil got hot but it ran forever.
I just ran the engine slower than rattle speed and dropped in new bearings when they got a little too loose and rattled a little too low in the rpm's.
I put together prolly 4 or 5 junkyard re ringers polishing the crank by hand and getting years out of the engines with no problems.
The only problem I ever had was I had a rod bolt fail once. I think I over torqued them. Now every engine I assemble gets arp rod bolts for cheap bomb insurance
Heads...
Valve guides are cheap work. if the valves only wobble a little they aren't needed let the machinist decide. sometimes they only replace a few of the guides for me if the others are servicable.
Serviceable is usable spec not new spec. don't fall for someone trying to sell you work because your used part doesn't meet new reman specs.
new work should meet book specs. Knowing the serviceable specs comes from experience and a green book worm tech knows only the spec book without the experience.
perfect example... brake drum specs.. what's machinable and what's not. I'm sure you've seen perfectly serviceable drums and rotors turned away from the auto parts store because they barely didn't mic out.
A hood head man can go through your heads avoiding un necessary work.
According to Mike Daley of Daley's Machine Shop Omaha Ne...
valve seals... there is an improved design umbrella seal that doesn't get hard and fall apart. use those. the factory ones get hard and fall apart then you start smoking.
Positive retention valve stem seals are fine for racing engines, last a long time and they do prevent excessive oil from getting into the intake...
But the downside is the valves don't get as much oil.
the umbrella seals let the valves get more oil but not too much...just enough.
like leaks?
Me neither
I always have silicon form-a-gasket swell up and leak in the long run
so I stopped trying to make gaskets out of gasket sealer
professional mechanic told me the oem grey Lasts the longest
Permatex Aviation type gasket sealer (coal tar based)... stays tacky, impervious to oil, cleans up with paint thinner or alcohol. no leaks...none
similar to Indian Head
for parts that wont come apart until the next rebuild...paint both parts with it and both sides of the gasket.
let it tack up a little before assembly
I use it mostly on the intake gaskets, timing cover, water pump, and the oil pan... anywhere there will be direct exposure to gas and oil.
I only use silicon on the pan and intake in the corners where the gaskets meet.
I used it on the rear main and oil pan and valve covers in my old 292 ford v8 and it never leaked a drop after that.
Need to take the valve covers off?
Tar seal the gasket to the covers or oil pan but silicon the gasket to the block or heads. whenever you take them off the gaskets will remain intact stuck to the sheet metal and reusable just clean off and add a little fresh silicon.
why take them off? they ain't gonna leak
competition 242 cam or 268 is good in a 305
For better torque you want a little more lift and duration than stock but don't want more overlap. 114 or 112 degree lobe centers are better on a street daily driver motor than 107 or 102 degree lobe centers.
202 heads..not on a 305. good on a 327, 350, or 400 but on a narrow bore 305 the air will be running smack into the cylinder wall before it gets a good chance to make the turn towards the piston. They will not breath as well as 194 heads.
A little cam on stock 305 heads that have had the rough edges smoothed out will flow better under 3500 rpm than 194 heads on a stock cam.
I did a 305 with the cc 242 cam, small tube headers, edelbrock performer 600 carb and intake and replaced my rattling 350 that had the same cam, same compression, and ported 194 heads with a 750 holly and a Wieand 6000 intake. Mileage was the about the same. the truck drove about the same. only time i missed those 50 cubes was when I had a load of forewood or was towing a wreck to the junkyard.
It was in a 1975 full time 3/4 ton 4x4
so...
1) It's gotta run good and not drop a valve on ya = quality head rebuild with minimal new parts
2)hand polish the crank or just spend 150 bucks for a reman crank kit
3)clean and cleaner ez-off works wonders and doesn't give you cancer or light you on fire
4)take the pistons and rods in to the shop and have arp bolts installed and the big ends resized. Ya have to after changing the bolts. don't put in a new design of bolts and not rebuild the rods.
5)remove the ring ridge
6)hone the cylinder enough to remove the shiney but not so much you make the hole bigger. Any machine shop is going to tell you if the ridge needed cut off your cylinders need bored. sure they will have a little taper and wear the rings out a little faster who cares it's a 305 use thicker oil like rotellas 20w50 if there's a problem lol.
removing the shiney lets the cylinder and the ring cut each other to a perfect fit. don't do it and the rings will never seal.
7)put in a new oil pump and an aftermarket oil pump driveshaft
8)double roller timing chain installed straight up
9)set your valves on the engine stand. pre lube the engine. with oil in the lifters and the lifter fully off the lobe and turning the pushrod between your fingers tighten the rocker nut until you begin to feel tension rotating the pushrod (zero slack). Then further tighten the nut the recommended turns.
do this individually for each valve.
10)set your distributor timing on the engine stand. put the engine at the 8 degree btdc timing mark. put power to the distributor and turn it opposite the direction the rotor turns until it sparks. Lock it down there. when you start the engine the timing will be perfect. you wont need to adjust anything but maybe the carb.
11)button it all up and then paint it.
12) put it in and break it in
for a new flat tappet cam you must run it at 2,000 rpm for 20 minutes to properly break in the cam with non detergent non synthetic oil. Any idle time spent fooling around trying to get the engine running will remove significant life from your cam possibly wiping a lobe in the first few hundred miles
In case anyone is wondering why I replaced the rattly 350 that "ran forever" with the 305...
I got it hot and cracked the heads plowing snow. the bearings still looked ok when i tore it down
I also forgot this...
the bad attitude cam bearings...
I made my own cam bearing installer from 3/4" all thread and washers chucked up in the drill press and resized with a file to fit each cam bearing.
they got a little boogered up going in
what'd I do?
I got the BFH out
It fit a little tight but they must have reshaped themselves when it fired up because the cam didnt end up in the oilpan.
Kind of reminds me of the time we beat a damaged harmonic balancer back onto the 454 with a fence post after the retainer bolt fell out... Oh yeah... JB weld on the threads and back into the bad threads with the crank bolt lol
Were talking teen agers, burger king at $3 an hour and 50 dollar junkyard motors here and 100 buck rebuild kits.
we weren't Micky Thompson
