learning about timing???

Last time my buddy and I set the timing on my sbc 350 (early model) my vacuum advance was hitting the intake so we couldn't get the advance high enough. We moved the wires over one counter clockwise and got it set right.

I just built this motor and had to fix an oil leak on the rear seal of the intake. I got that fixed and put a brand new Edelbrock carb on it. When I reset the timing at TDC, the rotor was dead on #1 and I moved the spark plug wires back to original position instead of moved over one.

I really just wanted to see if it still needed as much advance as when we set it the first time with a timing light. It's idling high right now and when I go to shut her down it wants to take a second or two to shut down. I don't have a timing light but think I need to move the spark plug wires counter clockwise again.

Does anyone else have to do this or does this make sense?

First off...where the heck you been?????

Now, that said....You should index the dist so that No 1 is in the proper location and you can adjust the timing without hitting the vac advance on the intake.....that said, indexing the wires back works.....but you need to know where you are at base timing...no other way to do that than to have a timing light handy....Now, you could start all over by pulling no1 plug and bring it around to top of compression and make sure the damper is at TDC..top dead center on the mark or 0... then pull the dist up and reindex it so that the number one plug wire is at the rotor and the dist is in the correct location i.e. the vac advance having some wiggle room for timing adjustments....when you do this you should be at 0 and then if you rotate the dist counterclockwise you should advance it a bit...if you can't seem to get the dist to fall all the way in when you do this it's due to the oil pump drive rod being off...hold the dist down while you have somebody bump the starter or turn the crank until the dist. drops onto the pump....then double check to make sure the rotor is pointing to where no1 plug wire is on the cap and the timing mark still says 0 when you're there....you should be able to start it.....then go a bit counterclockwise to bump the timing up a tad....without a light you can use a vacuum gage to try to set it...adjust to the highest reading then back off till it begins to drop off and lock it down...unless you have a vacuum leak at the carb you just put on it should be close until you can get a timing light....[P

Sorry Sgt., work has been really picking up for me at the shop so far this year. I've been lurking but not posting.

I did basically everything you mentioned so far. I went out affter a day or so this morning and cranked it and it started up first try and idled fairly good. It still seems a bit high though and I'm right on the intake with the vacuum advance. I don't mind resetting the rotor at TDC again (I use the old carrot trick because I'm usually by myself), but I'm wandering if I should just move the spark plug wires back one counter clockwise and scoot the vacuum advance way back off where it hits the intake.

I didn't know if this is just being lazy or if others have to do this at times.

Thanks buddy.

I'll jump in, wires don't care where they are in the cap, only that when the rotor hits number one wire, the #1 cyl. in at tdc, on compression stroke. sounds like your close, would look for a vacume problem.

Heck man, if work is good....Amen!!

Did you check to see if the fast idle is coming off the fast idle cam...or maybe it's adjusted too much.....I assume that you've tried to adjust the idle adjustment screw also? If both of these are set to the lowest setting, then check to see if you have full vacuum to the vac advance...maybe it's taking the timing to full advance at idle....if all that checks out, then I'd start looking for a vacuum leak somewhere...take a little spray carb cleaner and spray a little around the base of the carb while it's running, if it idles up or stumbles then you've found your leak...check around the intake also...sounds like you've had it off a couple times to fix the oil leak...did you put new gaskets on after you sealed the back? If not, probably should have....let us know what you might find from this and maybe we can help you get it sorted out.....Work is good.....!![cl

Thanks guys. I have a buddy coming over with a timing light this morning. I'll check the fast idle... I did mess with the fast idle and idle adjustment screws. I'll see if the problem is there. I hate asking dumb questions but I'm usually by myself and have to figure these things out by myself.

I use a vac gauge to set time

Sam_Fear said:

I use a vac gauge to set time

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I'd be interested to learn how you do this. I think the timing mark on my Fairlane is off.

So what's the theory behind it - adjust so you get the best vacuum at idle?

Pretty basic......

BigIrish said:

I'd be interested to learn how you do this. I think the timing mark on my Fairlane is off.

So what's the theory behind it - adjust so you get the best vacuum at idle?

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Make sure that carb setting are close, idle, mixture and such then hook up vacuum gage....make sure there is no vac to the vacuum advance and then advance timing to the highest vacuum you can get and to the point the vacuum starts to fall back off, then back it off a tad and lock it down...should be close to the maximum base timing.....usually about 10 to 15 degrees or so...should be....might have to back down a bit if you get any spark knock...but normally it's pretty close....

I ended up having to replace our water heater that sprung a leak Saturday. I started from square 1 and reset the engine to tdc. I stabbed and restabbed the distributor about 20 or 30 times (while adjusting the oil pump shaft with a long screwdriver). I tried it every which way and could only get the rotor to point just before or just after the #1 piston. It's close but not dead on. I'm going to try to start her up in a few and see where the timing is at.

If y our only "close" is it better to be a little before #1 or a little after? My understanding would be if it's a little before #1 I have more room to adjust the advance without the vac adv. hitting the intake??????

Or should I just keep restabbing it until it's dead on?

That would depend....

kelseydum said:

I ended up having to replace our water heater that sprung a leak Saturday. I started from square 1 and reset the engine to tdc. I stabbed and restabbed the distributor about 20 or 30 times (while adjusting the oil pump shaft with a long screwdriver). I tried it every which way and could only get the rotor to point just before or just after the #1 piston. It's close but not dead on. I'm going to try to start her up in a few and see where the timing is at.

If y our only "close" is it better to be a little before #1 or a little after? My understanding would be if it's a little before #1 I have more room to adjust the advance without the vac adv. hitting the intake??????

Or should I just keep restabbing it until it's dead on?

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Mainly only if the vacuum advance will still hit the intake if you try to adjust it......if you move the wires to match it really doesn't matter...I am a bit anal about that sort of thing so I want them where they should be but ultimately it really doesn't matter as long as No 1 wire is pointing at the rotor tip when it's on TDC of number one's compression stroke.....if it's very close then it will start...then move the dist. counterclock wise to advance and opposite to retard.....good luck man.....
To answer your question about before or after...think about the rotation of the dist to advance it..if the vac advance hits the intake then having it before would be better as you'd need to move the dist clockwise to retard it...therefore moving the vac advance away from the intake....sorry, I was rambling...lol

Just get it in there so that you have enough room to adjust it properly. It doesn't need to be dead on. Electricity doesn't care as long as the rotor is pointed to #1 at TDC.

"To answer your question about before or after...think about the rotation of the dist to advance it..if the vac advance hits the intake then having it before would be better as you'd need to move the dist clockwise to retard it...therefore moving the vac advance away from the intake....sorry, I was rambling...lol "

That's sort of what I was thinking. I always over think things and make it harder than it should be.

I'll let you know what the outcome is.

I do the same thing....

kelseydum said:

"To answer your question about before or after...think about the rotation of the dist to advance it..if the vac advance hits the intake then having it before would be better as you'd need to move the dist clockwise to retard it...therefore moving the vac advance away from the intake....sorry, I was rambling...lol "

That's sort of what I was thinking. I always over think things and make it harder than it should be.

I'll let you know what the outcome is.

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Sometimes the more I ponder it, the more confused I get....LOL

On a small block Chevy you can time them to run really well by just listening to the engine. When it idles the highest and smoothest you are real close.