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Welding/Metalworking... Talk & Q&A Get your torch, braze, hammer, tig or mig on here!

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  #11  
Old 12-14-2016, 10:53 PM
serrata serrata is offline
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I noticed a copper spatula in the HF welding aisle. I bought one. I wasn't sure what it was for, but now it makes sense. I'll clamp it behind the sheet to reduce my blow-through. I'm kinda excited about the possibilities with this. I've been welding sheet metal panels for so long now with this project, I'm so used to just dealing with globbing up the weld to fix the blow-throughs everywhere and then grinding like crazy. Crappy HF welding machine.

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Originally Posted by Willowbilly3 View Post
I would take a cutoff and cut most of those welds out. I'm with Dutch on the wire feed welds but that's the tool and skill most of us have. I used to be able to hammer weld and that is the best because done right, the work is all done while it's being welded in.
With my wire feed, I like to use a heat sink where I can. I would cut most of the welds, get things straightened back up. Then bend a piece of flat bar to the roof contour and cleco it right next to the weld, just enough room so you don't weld to it. Then take your time and move around, a little here and a little there allowing cool down in between
I also have some big thick copper bus bars I clamp up right behind the weld on old thin parent metal. It is a great heat sink and allows you to not blow holes.
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  #12  
Old 12-14-2016, 11:29 PM
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jmlcolorado jmlcolorado is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by serrata View Post
I noticed a copper spatula in the HF welding aisle. I bought one. I wasn't sure what it was for, but now it makes sense. I'll clamp it behind the sheet to reduce my blow-through. I'm kinda excited about the possibilities with this. I've been welding sheet metal panels for so long now with this project, I'm so used to just dealing with globbing up the weld to fix the blow-throughs everywhere and then grinding like crazy. Crappy HF welding machine.
Hey don't let the HF machine get ya down. That's what I started on! If you can learn how to work with that machine, A new machine will be an absolute dream
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  #13  
Old 12-15-2016, 09:50 AM
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^^^I agree^^^
If you can learn to weld with a barely adequate machine then, when you get a good one, it lets you see how good you've gotten
The copper paddle or plate really is a helping hand.
The panel clamps they sell are great too. I've got about 50 of them.
I've been welding for 50 years and I still deal with blow through and gommed up messes, on rusted bodies.
Nature of the beast
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  #14  
Old 12-20-2016, 06:01 PM
serrata serrata is offline
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Hehehe...
It's good to know that it's not just my lack of experience that's contributing to my metal messes.
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  #15  
Old 12-20-2016, 11:31 PM
TIMOTHALE TIMOTHALE is offline
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Default metaluragy 101

In order to get the mig wire to feed the alloy has more carbon than Ideal. I still like to follow bill hines method and use oxy acety with a softer wire. . I would like to see a softer wire that would work in a spool gun.
Over 50 years ago I took a metalurgy college class. the instructor had a wire stretched across the front of the class and wired in series with a light bulb. when he turned on the light the wire started to heat and expanded, the wire started to sag down, then all of a sudden it started to shrink and tighten up and was glowing red. The instructor explaned that at the critical temperature the molecule changed shape as the iron, carbon and other elements re- arranged the crystal structure. If you cooled the metal rapidly the tighter structure was "frozen" in that shape. slow cooling allowed the molecule to rearrange back into the lower temperature structure.
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  #16  
Old 01-04-2017, 06:23 PM
Willowbilly3 Willowbilly3 is offline
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There used to be some wire called soft weld or something like that. I found some on ebay a couple years ago but it was like $159 for a 10 pound roll.
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  #17  
Old 01-05-2017, 09:50 PM
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I went to a local machine shop for some copper or brass block as backer for plug welding some bolt holes
he told me all I needed was some scrap aluminum and he gave me some 3/16 scrap bits and they work great.
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  #18  
Old 01-14-2017, 03:10 PM
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Good replys from everyone. Here is what I do on large panels...single spot welds spaced far away from each other (like 10-12") and keep filling in with single spot welds until the entire weld is done. Do not come back near a previous weld until the metal has cooled completely to room temp. I also use the HF copper backer to suck some off the heat. You have to have lots of patience for this method and force yourself to find other work to do but it works well for me. A 3 foot weld may take me a couple days to complete if I'm following my own rule of being patient. Attached is a pic of the spot welds I mean. This is just a very short crack I was just fixing on my model A cab but gives you the idea of what I mean just doing spot welds. Hope my method gives you some help!
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File Type: jpg SpotWeld.jpg (49.1 KB, 33 views)
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  #19  
Old 02-26-2017, 06:44 PM
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Drewski Drewski is offline
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Speaking of using a copper back up, several years ago I came up with this gizmo to help me welding holes in the firewall.



A magnet from Harbor Freight a scrap of stainless, and a piece of flattened copper pipe. I could stick in inside the firewall and weld up the hole without a blow thru. I found it useful welding in new panels also dependent on where it was on the body.



I later made some accessories for different situations.







Back side of the panel using the copper back up.



Might be of some use to prevent blowing thru.
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  #20  
Old 02-26-2017, 07:51 PM
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Good stuff Drewski!!!
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