Klink's 1930 Chevy

[klink]

I've had this car a long time, I've been planning some sort of build for over twenty years. This car started life as a 4 door sedan, now it's a topless 2 door. These things had lots of wood in them and it rarely survives. I wanted a two door tub when I picked it up so the "extra" stuff went. I posted a few pics here when I joined this site: http://www.ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18537
A few months back I bought some material to build a frame, 2X6X1/8 rectangular tubing. After some effort trying to come up with a plan to bend it, http://www.ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=18955 I finally got what I wanted. I have a Jag rear for it, a 235 Chevy and a Edmunds Custom two carb intake with matching air breathers (re-pops).

[Snake Farm]

That will make a sweet "Tub" I like those curvy rails and your engine choice is very cool!

[RAT IHC]

Very nice...keep us updated. I'll be following this one.

-Troy

[bob w]

Very nice work on the body. I know you put a lot of work in arching the frame rails. I'll be watching your build with great interest.

[sgtpontiac]

Keep us posted....nice combo...have to agree with that....

[klink]

Today I trimmed the rear rails to just behind where the kick up will start. I also cut the rough profile into the front section of the frame. Then I set it up on the table with the caged Jag rear. The rear will stay caged for awhile, it's easier to handle that way.

[klink]

Today I worked on the front part of the frame. A few weeks back I rough cut the shape of the frame. There was some trimming that had to be done, so I applied some paint and scribed the lines. After lots of grinding I was ready to install the bottom part of the frame. This piece is fabbed from 1 3/4"X 1/4"; I used this so I could leave 1/8" exposed while 1/8" was nested down into the open part of the bottom. This allows me to dress the welds without the fear of grinding them away, it also kept the frame rail nice and straight. The only problem was keeping the depth consistent. I didn’t have enough room to slip something into the gap to assist with this so I welded some washers in place to stop the frame bottom. The zinc plating had to be removed where I would be welding otherwise they would just fall off. I set the washers with a 1/8” thick piece of stock. Then I clamped everything and welded it. I’m dressing the welds by hand (after grinding them close). First I filed them square, then I marked them with a sharpie, two of the lines are ¼” from the “corner” and two of the lines are 1/8” from the corner. I beveled them to the first set of lines then rounded the corners close to the second set of lines. I’ll eventually finish dress them with a sander.

[klink]

So here it is clamped and dressed. I thought I had pic of the finished radius, but apparently I didn't.

[Hillbilly bling]

Howdy Klink,,, I have to appoligeize, when i first saw the 2x6 for the frame i'm like WHAT? 2x6? I got 2x4 and 2x5 on my semi! Now that I see what you doing ,,I like it!!! Now why didn't I think of that? Thats a cool idea you got... My Bad on first thought.

[klink]

No problem... It's going to be a high boy. 32 Ford frames are 6" tall. Getting this frame to this point has been a bit of a challenge. I'm trying to keep some of the Chevy elements, that's why I didn't get a set of 32 Ford frame rails, i didn't want the reveal. I used the original Chevy frame kickups with some modifications. The only thing I'm not sure about are the frame horns. The Chevy had parallel leaf springs, so the horns are a little longer and a little more crurved and thinner. I "modified the shape to get them thicker, but I'm on the fence. It may be a little premature to decide though since it's not a chassis yet.