'47 Dodge shop truck

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It's really rust pitted. Any suggestions?
Can you sand blast and skim coat it with any success?

I would try to have it dipped instead of blasting. That way you don't lose anymore metal. Then you can hit it with a good self etch and sealer primer. Next would be a good high build primer to fill the little pits. It can be done. [P
 
POPS, I have used your idea of sandblasting and a light coat of body filler or some high build primer, on really pitted tin.
The big guys won't even try to sandblast tin but the little Cheapo, Chinese sandblasters don't warp tin and don't blow that much tin away either. Sandblasting gets the rust out of everywhere like the bottoms of the little craters, where hand-sanding won't.
Mine has lasted three years now but I don't foresee a bad future, yet. Then again, I'm a flaming optimist. Go for it.
 
I thought the rear end of this thing needed something. This is what I came up with. Need to scrounge some flush mount round tail lights.. Maybe French them in to match the license plate??

Looks good, i think it'd look cool if you frenched the lights in like you suggested.

-Chris
 
I would try to have it dipped instead of blasting. That way you don't lose anymore metal. Then you can hit it with a good self etch and sealer primer. Next would be a good high build primer to fill the little pits. It can be done. [P

I thought about that but the tree hugging environmentalists have put all the strippers and chrome shops out of business around here. Maybe I can get it soda blasted. Thanks.
 
POPS, I have used your idea of sandblasting and a light coat of body filler or some high build primer, on really pitted tin.
The big guys won't even try to sandblast tin but the little Cheapo, Chinese sandblasters don't warp tin and don't blow that much tin away either. Sandblasting gets the rust out of everywhere like the bottoms of the little craters, where hand-sanding won't.
Mine has lasted three years now but I don't foresee a bad future, yet. Then again, I'm a flaming optimist. Go for it.

I'm going to buy a soda/sand blasting unit from Jegs and try it. I called a couple of people about having the cab, fenders, and frame blasted and I about choked. $800 to $1200 dollars! I must be getting really old or something. Everything is just to danged expensive. I used to charge $500 to sand blast a D8 Caterpillar.
 
I'm going to buy a soda/sand blasting unit from Jegs and try it.

get one of the temporary car tents to do it in. That way you can recycle your media. lay down some heavy plastic first. Makes a nice, cheap sweatr shop bast booth.
 
You will be better off doing the blasting yourself Pops. I use a cheap open hopper siphon feed blaster with a 5 hp compresser. Works fine and doesn't warp the metal. But it does take time.
Most pro blasters are used to doing heavey equipment and solid steel so they use much more powerful equipment that will indeed warp your sheet metal.
And yes you can skim coat for the larger pits. As was suggested earlier go with a good self etching primer. Then maybe a Epoxy primer follwed by hi-build primer while the epxoy primer is still tacky. This will lock down any future corrosion issues.
Torchie.
 
I had my body blasted twice, both times it was under 300, I had some bad pitting in my roof, the blasting didnt hurt it either time. It was epoxied and got a couple light coats of filler. I left some of the pitting for the patina give it some realistic texture
 
I thought the rear end of this thing needed something. This is what I came up with. Need to scrounge some flush mount round tail lights.. Maybe French them in to match the license plate??

Got to figure out if I'm going to try to use this bed or build one.
It's really rust pitted. Any suggestions?
Can you sand blast and skim coat it with any success? My body work experience is next to none. I would appreciate any help or suggestions.

This is just meant as constructive criticism, but when they're painted roll pans like that tend to look too boxy to me, and make the box of the truck look too tall and awkward at the back. Have you thought of moving the roll pan forward from the rear edge of the box 3-4"? On my brother's 39 Dodge he made his roll pan attach to the fenders so it's at the same angle as the fenders and the lights are still highly visible, it's a very streamlined look. What you've done looks good, I'm just giving suggestions :)
 
You will be better off doing the blasting yourself Pops. I use a cheap open hopper siphon feed blaster with a 5 hp compresser. Works fine and doesn't warp the metal. But it does take time.
Most pro blasters are used to doing heavey equipment and solid steel so they use much more powerful equipment that will indeed warp your sheet metal.
And yes you can skim coat for the larger pits. As was suggested earlier go with a good self etching primer. Then maybe a Epoxy primer follwed by hi-build primer while the epxoy primer is still tacky. This will lock down any future corrosion issues.
Torchie.

That the way I was thinking on the blasting Torchie. Thanks for the info on the hi-build primer while the epoxy primer is still tacky.
I will probably spend way to much time on this bed and end up wishing I had just built one. We'll see. I got nothing but time.
 
I had my body blasted twice, both times it was under 300, I had some bad pitting in my roof, the blasting didnt hurt it either time. It was epoxied and got a couple light coats of filler. I left some of the pitting for the patina give it some realistic texture

Thanks for the input.
YOur ride turned out great, Nice job.
 
This is just meant as constructive criticism, but when they're painted roll pans like that tend to look too boxy to me, and make the box of the truck look too tall and awkward at the back. Have you thought of moving the roll pan forward from the rear edge of the box 3-4"? On my brother's 39 Dodge he made his roll pan attach to the fenders so it's at the same angle as the fenders and the lights are still highly visible, it's a very streamlined look. What you've done looks good, I'm just giving suggestions :)

I mocked this thing up with card board cut outs 3 different ways. I should have taken pics but I didn't. I liked this one better than the angled one. I guess I didn't think it fit the look of the pu that I'm after.

Thanks for the input.
 

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If you are going with sides without the top angle building your own bed wouldn't be that hard Pops.
I am mulling that idea for mine as my current bed sides are really pitted but I will have to come up with a way to bend the 45's at the top of the sides.
Some sort of home made 6 foot brake.:eek:
By the time I get it into shape I could probably build 2.
Torchie.
 
If you are going with sides without the top angle building your own bed wouldn't be that hard Pops.
I am mulling that idea for mine as my current bed sides are really pitted but I will have to come up with a way to bend the 45's at the top of the sides.
Some sort of home made 6 foot brake.:eek:
By the time I get it into shape I could probably build 2.
Torchie.

I understand pitted! I don't see any sign of paint on this bed. After looking at this thing today, I'm just going to build a new bed. I know a guy that has a 10 ft brake maybe he'll do the deed on the angle.
 
Salvaging my cowl lights.

It's been awhile since I brazed anything!
Pile it on, grind it to specs., prime , fill and paint.
This is the color I'm going with. '68 Camaro blue.
 

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I mocked this thing up with card board cut outs 3 different ways. I should have taken pics but I didn't. I liked this one better than the angled one. I guess I didn't think it fit the look of the pu that I'm after.

Thanks for the input.

If it meets your vision that's all that matters. Keep up the good work!
 

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