Recent content by NitroJohnny

50/50 fan is correct. I could use wetter but I dont think it needs it.

Plugs look fine. Checked those when I pulled the head.

Drove it Saturday am and it never got above 185. I'm going to flush the block and block off the heater ports at the pump to get more flow through the block. That should do it.

It is located on the bottom side, inlet side of the Tstat. Yes the pump out for the heater is bypassed. This could be blocked I suppose.

I can try the slower speed deal in 2nd gear. I also dont think it is wind or air related. Ive cooled plenty of race motors that had heat issues the same as this is set up. On the temp it is being read on a new temp guage when driving. At the house I use a IR guage. But at idle its at 180 all...

Yea, the block looked clean when the pump was off. There was rust water in it when I drained it the first couple of times, but thats kind of normal with these older engines. I'll still check the block anyway. I also considered the front grill area. It cant be changed and I have ducted it all...

Thanks for the advice, but it looks like you missed my updated post. Head is fine and been rebuilt. Gasket looked ok, but could have been the issue. So top end is complete and not the issue. Radiator is brand new, including the fan and shroud. Water pump and Tstat is also brand new. The old pump...

Its hooked to the only open port on the carb which is on the base plate. But I dont know if this is ported above or below the throttle plate. Should be in the correct location since its the only port available. I'll have to check it with my vacume guage.

I checked TDC while the head was off and it's dead on. I did set it to 12. I could bring it back down a little to see if that helps. I used to run my stock car engines at 32-36 degrees advanced with a locked dizzy and didnt have this hard a time keeping it cool. The one thing I dont know about...

Theres no spring in this one because I had to make it from tow different hoses. But its all new and really stiff. I dont think it can collapse especially with this water pump. They dont seem to move too much water too fast.

It has a new pump. And the old pump wasnt that old at all and seemed to work just the same. I dont remember seeing any diverter plate. That may be my issue. Its a 69 250. If I can remember this, I think with the pump off, I could see the #1 cylinder. Basically just a big hole.

I guess you missed that part. LOL The fan is behind the radiator. Its a puller system now. I'm just trying to find the reason for it running hotter only when driving at 50mph or over. ( Estimated speed due to no speedo )

Made a shroud out of aluminum for the front, race car style. Not totally sealed but should work. Thats when I drove it about 10 miles and got to 190. I think it would have ent higher, but I slowed down. Outside temp was about 75 maybe. I was asked on another forum to look at the exhaust flap to...

Its a 180. Newer engines are designed to work at higher temps. Even up to about 230. But these old engines work best at 180 or close. I know 200 isnt horrible, but there is a limit to most engines that once it gets to a certain temp, it just shoots up quick and you cant get it back down. Temps...