Search results

Not sure if it helps... but might be worth a look: http://www.bolingbrothers.com/Frames-and-Chassis.html

I almost got excited there for a minute! Cutting off the front clip[;) The good news is, the drive train is tops with barely 56,000 original grandma miles. I picked it up cheep enough to justify taking what parts I need/want and still coming out WAY money ahead.

Thanks Skull, I agree! The sarcasm and criticism on other forums is a joke! I've only seen a couple of the s-10 swaps, and they look great. It will likely be my choice when the time comes. My immediate consideration was using the perimeter frame from the Roadmaster donor car I have right...

Thanks, thats exactly what I needed to know. I knew the width was close, but the perimeter frame seals the deal. Time to pull a motor...

Everywhere I turn, guys are dropping mid-50's reg. cab short box pick-ups onto s-10 chassis. (Save the argument of using an s-10 or a nova front clip. it's irrelevant.) My question is, I have a 1994 GM B-body, (Caprice/Impala/Roadmaster). Mine is actually the Roadmaster. It has a 116"...

Very cool speedo... never really occurred to me to cut my donor to fit the the existing hole.

Thanks! Sorry for the distraction.... Diggin your Cadi [P

Sweet build! Question for you on the LT1 + 4L60E combo. How do the mounting point's compare to a traditional carb style SBC + 700R4? It's my understanding the LT1 is a glorified/fuel injected SBC, and the 4L60E is essentially an electronic 700R4... therefor should share identical chassis...

Very Nice! I like the paint scheme. The black accents make a nice touch.

Thanks guys! I was of the same understanding. The LT1 should essentially be the same as an SBC in regards to mounting.

Not sure if this is should have gone into the frame section or engines? Would someone mind sharing the difference between the traditional SBC and LT1 motor mounts? I thought they were the same??? Can anyone point me to a reference on the 4L60E specs to determine the x-member location? My...

Is anyone familiar with Riley Automotive frames out of Commerce City Colorado? Has anyone used one for a build? http://www.ebay.com/itm/1930-1931-Ford-Model-A-coupe-frame-hot-rod-rat-rod-Double-Zd-LOW-/200820448914?pt=Vintage_Car_Truck_Parts_Accessories&hash=item2ec1d4de92

Sweet color scheme! Black wheels would top it off in my book!

Cadi engine?

:eek: [P

Rock and Roll! Looks like you have plenty of parts lying around. [P[P[P

Thank you!

Here's a site I have used several times. Not every vehicle is complete, but has a great base line for most: http://www.classiccardatabase.com/index.php

Perfect, Thank you! Just so I understand correctly, on the "Right" illustration, it appears the rear end is level, the engine is level, and the drive line is the only component with the angle in it? Or is it acceptable to have the engine and rear end slightly tipped, as long as the drive line...

I keep reading about mounting the drivetrain at 4-5*. Would someone mind giving me a little education on why? Is it just to reduce driveline shutter? [S