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with a MIG or TIG you're using an inert sheilding gas instead of a flux core wire.. no flux is required, and welds are much cleaner, less spatter and don't look like burnt bird poop

you can also use a tinted primer, depending on the brand of paint system you're using... if you plan on painting in the next year or two this is a good idea.. if you don't plan on refinishing it, the primer will break down after a few years UV exposure... I'd use a flattened single stage...

Hey you crusty nuts, I'm currently in St. Louis doing body/frame/collision. My big project right now is a low low, Model A sedan. I've got my hands on a really b*tchin' fabbed frame with no rear kickup. it's so low it goes UNDER the rear axle! anyway, the first link has about a zillion pics...

start mocking stuff up.. get your axle, and bones together, then throw on the pivots(perches) and measure the distance between them.. no sense in sending back a part becuse of premature measurements

I do know cast metal needs to be heated to around 500deg for good penetration.. using a rosebud and a heat crayon is the perfect way to acheive heat, without ruining the structural integrity of the metal -- once you hit a visible cherry red, you've already ruined the metal if you're not sure...

overheard in bodyhop I was apprenticing in while one man is using tweezers to remove a metal spinter from another mans eye, "D*MMIT, I COULDA WENT ALL DAY WITHOUT GETTING METAL IN MY EYE!!" I'll never forget it!! lol!!

you can't work careful enough with sheet metal. you're tacking, walking away, plug weld, walk away... always skip around, never cool with a wet rag unless you're trying to shrink an oil can area. rapid cooling makes sheet metal brittle and hard to work. this is a job to do while you're doing...

80s-90s minivan roof sheetmetal cover in vinyl, glued on turn backwards so body countours match attatch rivet snaps (or fasteners of choice) snap onto your roof and stop getting that farmer tan $50 start to finish --- or make a custom suspended fabric roof for bookoo bucks and labor

just use a 2k primer

why? huh?

I've heard 80's minivans are the only way to go.. basically free, some ribbed and contoured, some smooth turn it around and you've got the perfect curve into the D pillar! want it cheap and no bodywork or welding? cover it in upholstry vinyl, glue in on there, then use snaps to attatch it...

ez tbucket just quoted me $87 for 27inch hairpins they seem very stout, thicker than everywhere else, and worth every penny. no bungs, threaded and tapped straight into the tubes ---