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Well, Headers, Intake, while your at it, if you change the intake, whil you have the timing cover off....just do a cam swap. Add new lifters. Other things you might want to do, rebuild your distributor, get a advance kit, change out the springs and weights (5 Horses).... 1" spacer under the carb...

Yep, FoMoCo was keen on this one, they offered a kit thru the Ford dealers way back when and there were some special washers, bolts and gaskets, the complete shebang for a 20 to 30 horse increase by swapping heads.... The new alum.'s for about $400 are a good way to go....more flow, less weight...

Well, all the 292 specialists should help you out. Sometimes though, you gotta step up to the plate to bat. You can get the bolt on or the weld on adaptor for the dipstick tubes thru Goodson Engine supplies. You'll have to lay it out and do the work yourself, isn't a biggie. I usually just weld...

What Ron Said! And those are HEAVY! Get a 1st. Gen Cummins, and drop it in...they are the Small Block Chevys of the Diesel World. Put a 3200 Spring in it, turn up the pump, Get yourself a good turbo with some injectors....and Hang-On!

YES, I was a Pontiac GURU at one time, hahaha...., all Pontiac Motors, 350- 455, the heads off one will bolt on another, all the blocks are the same, all except for bore and strokes. Waterpump off a 350 will bolt to a 400 or a 455, oilpans. EXCEPT for the HO's or the SuperDutys. Heads are...

Use Tin Eye and do a search....

Go online to Ames or you can get it thru Ace Hardware. I got it factory direct, Ames Elasto-Barrier....get everything clean and dry, can't have any silicone sealer agaist this stuff, but you roll it on use a paintbrush for up in the corners. Let stand for 24 hours, do second coat, then a 3rd...

Go online to Ames or you can get it thru Ace Hardware. I got it factory direct, Ames Elasto-Barrier....get everything clean and dry, can't have any silicone sealer agaist this stuff, but you roll it on use a paintbrush for up in the corners. Let stand for 24 hours, do second coat, then a 3rd...

Go to LincolnWelders.com, and download their PDF manual for the machine you got. Will have the schematics in there.... If you have trouble, call or visit your local Lincoln dealer, they'll have a picture of what you need....:cool:

Well, its a time saver, should anything be wrong with the motor. I run everything in on a test stand, just so everthings OK before installation. They're cheap enough....hell, Northern Tools had one on sale for $350 not long ago, had casters, a small dash, radiator mounts the whole ball of wax...

That Ethanol is pure crap as far as I'm concerned. Thats just a cheap way to water the fuel down so they can milk us for some more money. The Ethanol makes your gas 'dry', so the rubber is attacked. We didn't have but 14 gibullion carbs mess up the first go around back in the late 70s/early 80s...

X2!!!! Level the table, then you can level everything up upon it....makes everything so much faster. Want to doublecheck something, measure from the table up.... My big table is 6'x10' with 1" top, has 8 casters to move it, a small tongue for the 20 horse lawntractor or forklift to roll it...

Even though I have a shop geared strictly toward racing, and getting more into street performance....I use the hell outta my 2 post lift. Floor space in my shop is at a premium....I have the larger 2 post Bendpacks. My guys are always using mine to change their oils and filters....its lifting...

If you go look on the front panel of the big Hobart Champ, the lower name on the front panel is Miller. Theres alot of parts that are interchangable since they're using the same tooling and all....if you look at the newer Hobart Champion Elite, its the same identical welder as the Miller...

Thats a great idea, too....I've also done that....the main thing is, go with what you got but just build something to contain that driveshaft! It doesn't have to be expensive or really be complicated....just something to keep that driveshaft off your ass should things decide to get ugly! [;):cool:

One of the best and easiest ways to build a loop is to get a piece of structural tubing or pipe, 6" dia. or larger by about 4" long, weld on 2 large mounting ears to mount to the frame. Then, with a couple of pieces of 5/16 or 3/8's flatbar the same width as the piece of pipe, lay out your...

Hahaha....What Ron Said! Yes, your throttle cable hooks to your fuel valve linkage, and you have a kill cable that hooks to the valve the feeds your fuel valve. The Pills, you change them out, to get you in the ballpark, then got to town with your screwdriver. Yep, as Ron said, pain in the Ass...

The hoses look like they're fairly new and in good shape. Bend then back and forth and make sure there are no cracks in those hoses....if there are, replace them. Anyplace that makes custom hoses should be able to make you up some replacements. Make sure your fuel control valve is good and...

You need to go completely thru these and clean out all the orifices and passageways, clean them up really good, cut new gaskets and put in them. If the pump runs off the crank, there should be be a mount on the front of the pump, if its cam driven, it'll have a 4" long alum. tube with a flange...

Well, need to look on that trans to see if you have a seal in it, and where its located in relation to your output shaft. Chances are you'll have to have some machining done. You can do it though....just have to run a flange off the rear of your trans output shaft, etc... To have a slipyoke type...