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I posted this yesterday deep in someone elses thread, and thought it may get more attention if I made my own thread out of it. I'm impatient that way.
Soooooooooo.........
OK, boyz and gurlz. Here's an idea that I came up with while recovering from stabbing myself in the back of the hand with a sawsall. (no drugs involved) It seem to work. I sketched lots of lines on the cab. I haven't seen this kind of a chop mentioned anywhere. Not in Tex Smith's book. Not here. I find it hard to believe I am coming up with an original idea here.
Can anyone blow a hole in this theory? Please! Before I start cutting!
1. I measured the across the windshield on my '38 Ford PU. There is a zone that stays the same width for about 3.5 inches, mostly just below the center line.
2. I marked both ends of that zone.
3. I measured back to the find the center of a circle that would have both points on the arc. (a bit of high school geometry) That point is on the back of the door opening almost exactly between the top two ribs of the belt line.
4. If I use that point as a pivot point and cut across the back of the cab, leaving the front of the b-pillar attached and using it as a hinge, the top will pivot whatever amount I cut out of the windshield post and the two pieces of the windshield post will match up perfectly. No spreading needed.
The windshield will still be straight. I think! If not, it should be close enough for the windshield to still fit and seal.
The back of the cab will be rocked forward about an inch at the top, starting just above the beltline.
There will be a bit of a gap to fill across the back of course, but this seems like a lot less work than cuttint the top in four pieces, and gluing it all back together.
When the top hinges forward, the roof line will drop in the front, but not noticably in the back. It will get a bit of what Tex Smith referrs to as a bald head look, If I take the entire 3.5 inches out, but I can not see any other down side.
The doors will amount to taking an equal amount out of the front pollar, and cutting a wedge out of the inside of the lower back corner.
So, gang, help me out here. Am I missing anything?
I do kinda' woneder if a 3-1/2 inch chop is even worth all the work. It would be fun, though.
Soooooooooo.........OK, boyz and gurlz. Here's an idea that I came up with while recovering from stabbing myself in the back of the hand with a sawsall. (no drugs involved) It seem to work. I sketched lots of lines on the cab. I haven't seen this kind of a chop mentioned anywhere. Not in Tex Smith's book. Not here. I find it hard to believe I am coming up with an original idea here.
Can anyone blow a hole in this theory? Please! Before I start cutting!
1. I measured the across the windshield on my '38 Ford PU. There is a zone that stays the same width for about 3.5 inches, mostly just below the center line.
2. I marked both ends of that zone.
3. I measured back to the find the center of a circle that would have both points on the arc. (a bit of high school geometry) That point is on the back of the door opening almost exactly between the top two ribs of the belt line.
4. If I use that point as a pivot point and cut across the back of the cab, leaving the front of the b-pillar attached and using it as a hinge, the top will pivot whatever amount I cut out of the windshield post and the two pieces of the windshield post will match up perfectly. No spreading needed.
The windshield will still be straight. I think! If not, it should be close enough for the windshield to still fit and seal.
The back of the cab will be rocked forward about an inch at the top, starting just above the beltline.
There will be a bit of a gap to fill across the back of course, but this seems like a lot less work than cuttint the top in four pieces, and gluing it all back together.
When the top hinges forward, the roof line will drop in the front, but not noticably in the back. It will get a bit of what Tex Smith referrs to as a bald head look, If I take the entire 3.5 inches out, but I can not see any other down side.
The doors will amount to taking an equal amount out of the front pollar, and cutting a wedge out of the inside of the lower back corner.
So, gang, help me out here. Am I missing anything?
I do kinda' woneder if a 3-1/2 inch chop is even worth all the work. It would be fun, though.
