Undead Sleds / Rat Rods Rule - Hot Rods, Rat Rods, Sleepers, Beaters & Bikes... since 2007!

Go Back   Undead Sleds / Rat Rods Rule - Hot Rods, Rat Rods, Sleepers, Beaters & Bikes... since 2007! > Builds!

Builds! Post your project here... show us what you're up to! Please Note: This section is for "Builds" ONLY!

Reply
 
Thread Tools Display Modes
  #251  
Old 08-11-2020, 09:40 AM
bob w bob w is offline
Still crazy after all these years!
 
Join Date: Jan 2008
Location: Stillwater, MN
Posts: 11,031
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Torchie View Post
Back in the day the cool custom cats would but a red or blue bulb in the interior lights for that “ Romantic” effect. ����
The girls I took out... I liked it dark, real dark.

No excuses needed, you are making great progress on you truck.
Reply With Quote
  #252  
Old 08-11-2020, 12:54 PM
MercuryMac's Avatar
MercuryMac MercuryMac is offline
Builder Junky!
 
Join Date: Jan 2013
Location: Northern Alberta, Canada.
Posts: 3,684
Default

I applaud your work getting 'new' old patina. Your tricks will go into my library, for future use. Thank you.
Reply With Quote
  #253  
Old 08-14-2020, 09:22 AM
mikec4193's Avatar
mikec4193 mikec4193 is offline
Rusty Rat Rodder
 
Join Date: Nov 2007
Location: mechanicville ny (upstate ny)
Posts: 508
Default

I am really late to the party but damn...I love the "crusty" Kansas sheet metal...I have less than 29 months before I will be heading out to N.E. Kansas to find a place to live....the patina from the sun is like second to none...if that was in upstate NY there would be nothing left of those truck cabs...

You are doing awesome work as usual...keep up the great work...

MikeC
__________________
I am the squirrel...
Reply With Quote
  #254  
Old 08-15-2020, 12:04 AM
joedoh joedoh is offline
Rusty Rat Rodder
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: doodah ks
Posts: 1,630
Default

thanks mike, I remember your 3/4 ton looooooong bed!

I never had a car big enough to need mood lighting

I needed to swap out the oil pressure sender for the new gauges, which was extra fun because its under the dizzy. which is now down a hole with the booster on one side and the HVAC on the other, straight down. laying on the motor was the only access.



with all the fuel lines and trying to miss the dizzy was an extra treat. I celebrated by breaking the evap purge solenoid,




if you think thats a weird way to celebrate, remember that it cost more than the cake and streamers at the last birthday party I threw for a 6 year old to fix it.

but everything works! I used a converter box to match ohms to the factory s10 gas tank sender, and added a temp sender in the heater core inlet line. everything else worked great!

Attached Images
File Type: jpg IMG_7790.jpg (89.5 KB, 53 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_7791.jpg (109.4 KB, 52 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_7797.jpg (84.2 KB, 51 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_7795.jpg (90.9 KB, 52 views)
Reply With Quote
  #255  
Old 08-15-2020, 03:40 AM
DozerII's Avatar
DozerII DozerII is offline
Rusty Rat Rodder
 
Join Date: Sep 2015
Location: Saskatchewan Can.
Posts: 3,997
Default

Gotta hate that when you fix one problem only to create another The gauges look great.
__________________
Glen
My 29 Essex Build http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=34026

Don't give up, it's far too much fun once you can drive it.
Reply With Quote
  #256  
Old 08-15-2020, 06:20 AM
Old Iron's Avatar
Old Iron Old Iron is offline
Rusty Rat Rodder
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Willard Mo.
Posts: 13,211
Default

Which converter box did you use on the fuel gauge?
I'm lookin at the Tanks Inc. one.
Reply With Quote
  #257  
Old 08-15-2020, 08:55 AM
joedoh joedoh is offline
Rusty Rat Rodder
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: doodah ks
Posts: 1,630
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Iron View Post
Which converter box did you use on the fuel gauge?
I'm lookin at the Tanks Inc. one.
yep thats the one, really useful. has presets to work with modern GM tanks so I was able to program it without filling up.
Reply With Quote
  #258  
Old 08-15-2020, 02:19 PM
Old Iron's Avatar
Old Iron Old Iron is offline
Rusty Rat Rodder
 
Join Date: May 2011
Location: Willard Mo.
Posts: 13,211
Default

Quote:
Originally Posted by joedoh View Post
yep thats the one, really useful. has presets to work with modern GM tanks so I was able to program it without filling up.
Reply With Quote
  #259  
Old 08-17-2020, 10:24 AM
joedoh joedoh is offline
Rusty Rat Rodder
 
Join Date: Oct 2015
Location: doodah ks
Posts: 1,630
Default

still on this door replacement. replacing the door and hinge made it close better, but since I had already put new felts and rubbers and glass in the old door I had to switch it all over.

but the real problem was the splines for the window crank were stripped on the replacement. stripped may not accurately describe it, instead of splines on the spindle it looked like an awl or punch, someone had used pliers or vice grips for years and it was worn significantly.

MY PLAN was to just cut the spindle, cut the spindle with good splines off the other door, bevel and weld. my brother heard this plan and started right away with the "that seems like a really lazy thing to do" kinds of comments. maybe lazy, but changing the regulators with the seven reluctant screws per door and internal roller sounded like a real pineapple enema.


so be it. I fought the screws on the damaged regulator first, to assess what kind of pain it would be. after drilling out two (a flathead screwdriver just rounded them off) I got smart and used a big pair of vice grips perpendicular to the screw head and used the leverage to crack them loose. that worked for the remaining 12.




the stripped one is on the bottom, you can see it had a broken spring too so my brother was right, better to endure the pain.

if you havent done this and need to, here is my tip:

when you get all the screws out it will still hang there by the spindle, its made to come out the bottom and the temptation is to try to pull it out spindle side first, but it will hit the window stop in the middle of the door. the way it worked for me was to let the spindle side all the way to the bottom of the door and then push it to the rear, away from the hole, flipping the assembly upside down so that the roller arms come out the hole first. that worked well, and install was the reverse, put it in upside down and pull the roller arms up from the top of the door till you get the spindle in the hole again.


after that I changed the felts and rubbers and glass again. I also had to change the outside window garnish moulding, the replacement door was stainless and was the only bit of stainless on the truck. everythingw orks great now!




i put in the overflow tank and so the hood is ready to go on for the last time, so bumper and carpet and seat (still no word) are where I am at!
Attached Images
File Type: jpg 61930522091__C0363428-390A-4AE9-B0DD-30310615A3B2.jpg (107.5 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_7803.jpg (138.7 KB, 33 views)
File Type: jpg IMG_7805.jpg (88.9 KB, 33 views)
Reply With Quote
  #260  
Old 08-17-2020, 03:40 PM
Dr Crankenstein's Avatar
Dr Crankenstein Dr Crankenstein is offline
Rocket Surgeon
 
Join Date: Mar 2011
Location: SK CAN
Posts: 7,967
Default

"Pineapple Free" is the way to be.

.
__________________
- The distinction between psychological illness and creative thinking is wafer thin -

1937 Chevy Coupe
1938 Chevy Sedan

Photo Posting and Resizing
Reply With Quote
Reply

Bookmarks

Thread Tools
Display Modes

Posting Rules
You may not post new threads
You may not post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off



All times are GMT -5. The time now is 01:30 AM.


Powered by vBulletin® Version 3.8.8
Copyright ©2000 - 2021, vBulletin Solutions, Inc.
Rat Rods Rule Inc.