A Massey-Harris 33.

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The water pump is now rebuilt and in primer. That new bearing that I had was almost perfect, but not quite. The integral bearing was about 1/16" closer the the short end of the shaft than the old ones. I just didn't press it in that last 1/16" into the housing.
I also mounted the clutch output shaft bearing in its housing that bolts on to the bellhousing.
It sounds like we are still waiting for some engine parts to come out of California.
 

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I'm glad to be back on the forum again.
Thank you 28.
I've been cleaning up parts, painting and welding up that rusty old thin-wall exhaust manifold. That is not a job for the faint of heart.
 
You guys can't catch a break with the weather this time of year. Hope you got a warm wood stove in that shop to speed up paint drying.[;):rolleyes:
 
Oh ya, 28, I've got heat. A diesel furnace that runs all winter.
Every day of welding on that dang old exhaust manifold gets me, ------- more experience. I thought I was almost done last night, wrong. Tonight, I'm a wee bit further away from done.
While I wait for the manifold to cool every once in a while, I clean up some stuff and prime and paint it.
 

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I welded on the manifold today, and got it done.
The flywheel dust-shield is now cleaned, straightened, and in primer.
I got at boring holes in the belly frame of the tractor so I could bolt the bellhousing feet down. Here's a picture of me starting to tap threads into the holes. You'll see some squares in the background, those are so I could keep the holes going down, perpendicular to the belly-frame surface.
 

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wow, you built a manifold just using welding rods [cl
j/k looks good to me! Now fingers crossed it won`t do the "ping" on you when tightening the bolts... :eek:
 
I agree with dutch, that is a fine looking welding rod manifold. Your welding rod material is twice as good as the original manifold junk material. Just snug the bolts, run it a bit & snug a little more, go easy.:D[cl

Diesel heater, that's a serious heat setup.[cl[cl
 
I agree with dutch, that is a fine looking welding rod manifold. Your welding rod material is twice as good as the original manifold junk material. Just snug the bolts, run it a bit & snug a little more, go easy.:D[cl

Diesel heater, that's a serious heat setup.[cl[cl

Good idea. Also clean the the pain off where the feet and frame meet. But you probably already knew that.
 
Thanks guys.
There's a lot of welding rod in there, but some little weird shaped iron patches too. I'd be just hanging up the stinger sometimes and I'd hear that dreaded 'ping' or 'klink'. I peened the cooling weld beads a lot and that seemed to help, but it was like the carbon and the iron in the old cast-iron, separated over so many heat cycles, so I came onto pockets of straight carbon which burnt up and caused holes in the thin walls.
28, we have to have heat in our shops, so I've had an old house furnace in there for 36 years. A person could work in the shop if it was 40*F to 55*F, but it wouldn't be fun. My shop might sit at +20*F to -20*F for months if I didn't have heat. I keep it at about +60*F. I want it to be fun in there.
 
A few little things today.
I painted the flywheel dustpan. The holes that I made for the bellhousing hold-down feet are now tapped out to 1/2" coarse thread. While I was doing this and cursing the steering shaft for being in the road of the tap handles every turn, I got thinking maybe the steering shaft is going to be in the road of the oil pump when I get the motor in there. I measured the old donor motor and tried to eyeball where the oil pump will jut out the side of the motor at in relation to the steering shaft. It's going to be close. I tried to take a u-joint off the tractor but couldn't, so I went out to a shed and brought in an old wrecked steering shaft and wheel and learned on it how to take the U-joint off.
This bellhousing is a couple of inches back from the stock motor bellhousing position, so the clutch actuating rod is quite a bit too long. I started to take it out of the tractor so I could shorten it.
 

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I went to visit my motor today. I took some little things and a jug of oil with me. We poured in the oil and started the motor up. It sounded retarded and the advance slot was all used up so we had to move all of the sparkplug wires around one notch and reset the timing again. It sounds good now.
I've been trying to shorten the clutch activating rod with very little success. In the frustration breaks from trying to unscrew the clevis off the end of the rod, I took the clutch pedal off, built up the pedal pivot shaft and primed and painted the clutch pedal.
 

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Getting close MM, looks like you'll be putting it back together soon? I'm enjoying this build, so thanks for posting your updates.
 
Red, OI. I had bought a few rattle cans of Massey-Ferguson red from the dealer, hoping that that was the same red as Massey-Harris' red. NAPA is getting me the Massey-Harris paint code red. I hope it's a wee bit darker than what I have. Oh ya, and the wheels will be yellow.
 
NAPA had my paint ready so I went in to town and picked it up. Here's pictures of the tractor belly primed and then painted. Tomorrow, I go and get my motor, so that's cool. After it's painted, it will have to be test-fitted into that cozy belly, a few times, I guess. The clutch activating rod is shortened, rethreaded, and painted red, now.
 

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