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  #261  
Old 04-18-2021, 08:26 PM
kenny c kenny c is offline
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Bill. I've been measuring a lot. and eye balling everything. Then I'm checking it some more. Mac I'm moving the battery to back behind the cab on the inside of the frame. I like the look of a firewall with as little clutter as possible. This will also give me more in the cab for a heater core and possibly an a/c evaporator. I've been looking at a few chops on this style cab and I think three and a half will be enough and still be able to see out the windshield. When I chop it I'm going to leave enough material below the rear window so if I have to raise the bottom of it I can if I don't feel the proportions are right. I hope this makes sense.
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  #262  
Old 04-18-2021, 08:48 PM
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Torchie Torchie is offline
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3-1/2 sounds good. You can always take more off if you need to.
I did 4 on my F series cab and could have gotten away with 3-1/2.
How are you planning your cuts?
Donít cut the roof into quarters.🙀
Torchie
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  #263  
Old 04-18-2021, 09:34 PM
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MercuryMac MercuryMac is offline
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I agree, Kenny, the firewall looks nice stock and uncluttered.
On your back window placement, make sure it's at the right height so you can see out of it for the righthand lane change.
Torchie, could you elaborate on your quartering rule. Is it just to save a lot of welding or is there other things to worry about also?
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  #264  
Old 04-19-2021, 05:24 AM
kenny c kenny c is offline
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Torchie. This cab is straight enough vertically on the sides that I won't 1/4 it. With this little amount of chop I'm hoping to get away without relief cuts in the corners. Mac. I'm trying to leave the rear window at full height. I don't care for the mail slot rear window look. I don't want the bottom of the rear window to be too low in respect to the door windows. We will see after I cut it. As far as lane changes I agree. The view will be restrictive enough being a small window in width. I also plan on running mirrors on both sides. Out of habit and being a truck driver I can't be with out a right side mirror. It may be a while before the actual chop. I want to get as many dents out of the roof as possible. At 84 years old it has seen some abuse but for a work truck it's in good shape. Thanks for the support.
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  #265  
Old 04-19-2021, 06:59 AM
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DozerII DozerII is offline
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Hey Kenny, I have only done one chop and that was on the 28 with straight pillars, won't you have to split the roof front to back to lengthen it?
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  #266  
Old 04-19-2021, 07:53 AM
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  #267  
Old 04-19-2021, 10:49 AM
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MercuryMac View Post
I agree, Kenny, the firewall looks nice stock and uncluttered.
On your back window placement, make sure it's at the right height so you can see out of it for the righthand lane change.
Torchie, could you elaborate on your quartering rule. Is it just to save a lot of welding or is there other things to worry about also?
Mac....
The bigger the chop the lower the roof goes(Obviously.)
The lower the roof goes the greater the side angle as it goes towards the roof causing the tops of the doors to stick out. As well as needing more relief cuts in the top to make things fit. Some people cut the roof into quarters and put a cross filler strip in the roof to bring the roof all out back to the stock angle and fit the door tops.
I just leaned my door tops in. I did it on the truck and have done it on the Dodge . Much less welding and the glass still rolls up and down as it should.
When you quarter it you get a real floppy mess and if you are working by yourself it can get interesting. Plus if you are going to get warpage and oil canning from welding heat that roof is the most likely place.

Quote:
Originally Posted by DozerII View Post
Hey Kenny, I have only done one chop and that was on the 28 with straight pillars, won't you have to split the roof front to back to lengthen it?
Dozer.......
With a 3-1/2 inch chop the roof will need about a 2-3 inch??? filler piece going side to side to line up the A pillars.
Go back and take a look at the chop and section OI did on the Chevy AD truck cab.
He did what I call a "U" shaped cut in the roof. See the crude artist rendering.
This style of cut helps the roof hold it's shape better. I think.
Lots of different ways to do chops. It's mostly a matter of personal preference. Some prefer not to cut across the roof at all but to lean back the A pillars. It's all work not matter how you do it.
Good plan getting the roof in shape before you cut , Kenny.

Torchie
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  #268  
Old 04-19-2021, 11:28 AM
kenny c kenny c is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Torchie View Post
Mac....
The bigger the chop the lower the roof goes(Obviously.)
The lower the roof goes the greater the side angle as it goes towards the roof causing the tops of the doors to stick out. As well as needing more relief cuts in the top to make things fit. Some people cut the roof into quarters and put a cross filler strip in the roof to bring the roof all out back to the stock angle and fit the door tops.
I just leaned my door tops in. I did it on the truck and have done it on the Dodge . Much less welding and the glass still rolls up and down as it should.
When you quarter it you get a real floppy mess and if you are working by yourself it can get interesting. Plus if you are going to get warpage and oil canning from welding heat that roof is the most likely place.


Dozer.......
With a 3-1/2 inch chop the roof will need about a 2-3 inch??? filler piece going side to side to line up the A pillars.
Go back and take a look at the chop and section OI did on the Chevy AD truck cab.
He did what I call a "U" shaped cut in the roof. See the crude artist rendering.
This style of cut helps the roof hold it's shape better. I think.
Lots of different ways to do chops. It's mostly a matter of personal preference. Some prefer not to cut across the roof at all but to lean back the A pillars. It's all work not matter how you do it.
Good plan getting the roof in shape before you cut , Kenny.

Torchie
very well stated. The door frames and A and B pillars are closer to vertical and thus being parallel. I will cut across the roof at it's highest point or the crown. I don't want to cut front to back because there is peak in the center running from tht windshield to about 1/2 way to the rear.
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  #269  
Old 04-19-2021, 12:21 PM
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MercuryMac MercuryMac is offline
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Torchie, I'm not questioning your information, I'm trying to learn all of the tricks to chopping a top, in case I have to do it sometime. I don't actually like extra welding on large tin surfaces. Welded tin usually outsmarts me.
Kenny, from driving my '36 around I know about seeing or not seeing what's in your blind spots on both sides, even with mirrors. I just wanted to be sure you were aware of the pitfalls, but you already knew this stuff. Keep on tinkering.
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  #270  
Old 04-19-2021, 02:13 PM
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Torchie Torchie is offline
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Old Iron View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by MercuryMac View Post
Torchie, I'm not questioning your information, I'm trying to learn all of the tricks to chopping a top, in case I have to do it sometime. I don't actually like extra welding on large tin surfaces. Welded tin usually outsmarts me.
Kenny, from driving my '36 around I know about seeing or not seeing what's in your blind spots on both sides, even with mirrors. I just wanted to be sure you were aware of the pitfalls, but you already knew this stuff. Keep on tinkering.
No worries Mac. I never thought you were.
Like I said. Many ways to do a chop. I tend to go for the easiest, when possible.
Less is best when it's come to welding those big flat areas of metal.
I'm about half way ready to put a peak on my Dodge hood. It will be with round rod and I will be taking my sweet time with it.


Quote:
Originally Posted by kenny c View Post
very well stated. The door frames and A and B pillars are closer to vertical and thus being parallel. I will cut across the roof at it's highest point or the crown. I don't want to cut front to back because there is peak in the center running from tht windshield to about 1/2 way to the rear.
Sounds like a plan.
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