Big Block Bantam

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Love the BBC. What carb you planning on using? What gears in the rear? Locked or spool?

I spent a lot of time looking at carbs during PRI a couple weeks ago. I decided to go with AED on my BBC.
 
SC5080 - That is a nice find, and a hemi to move it along.[cl:eek:

Bob w - That body looks real nice in clean, bare metal. Knowing you it will be test mounted by Christmas Day. Have a good holiday to you and family. My Christmas is complete being back home at the beach. [cl[cl
 
Well, I out tricked myself. The 1 1/4" structural pipe I bought for the roll cage won't fit in my 1 5/8" bender die. A die to fit it is around $300. Better to get 10 gauge 1 5/8" ERW tubing, It will have to be special ordered.

That Chrysler powered Bantam on the previous page needs a little more wheelbase before I'd get after it. Cool car though. I put it in my picture file. Thanks.
 
Old Iron, It is 1.660" and .140" wall. The die is for 1.625" diameter. I took the die follower to the steel yard and the structural pipe fit that. But the die is machined differently allowing for some stretch and to prevent ovalization of the tube. That extra .045" was just enough to where I could see the pipe was not bottoming in the die.

fbp, I believe I saw that car at Viva Las Vegas some years ago.
 
Yea, that's a little too big.
I use .134 wall ERW inside the cockpit and .095 wall everywhere else.
If I use D.O.M tubing then I go with .095 wall everywhere.
 
NHRA calls for .118" wall for roll bars and cages made from mild steel. They don't specify type so either DOM or ERW are okay. 11 gauge is .120" wall but can be as thin as .112" wall and still be within manufacturer's tolerance. Also, it stretches and thins in bends. One time I got 11 gauge that measured .125" wall and used it successfully. The companies that sell roll bars and cages use 10 gauge which is .134" wall so they are within NHRA spec all the time. Just got an email from Discount Steel, a big supplier in Minneapolis. I tried to order 10 gauge and the response was that it is discontinued. Apparently discontinued by them because I'm sure it is still manufactured. Waiting to hear from another supplier.
 
I used .134 wall DOM to build the cage for my altered. Had to wait a few weeks to get it but this guarantees that it will pass any inspection and be legal. You might want to keep this in mind for when the Bantam proves to be a little quicker than you are planning. :D
 
sc5080, you are building to a sfi spec. Does that spec call for DOM when using mild steel for the cage?

Sorry nick, for not answering your questions earlier. I am using a Holley 750 cfm carb. Model 3310. The old stand by. The engine could probably use more but it will go fast enough with this carb.

I've got a 8 3/4" Mopar rear end with a 2.8-something open diff. The 400 turbo trans has a pretty low first gear and with the car being light it should accelerate fine. I can't go quicker than 10.00 anyway. It's going to be street driven so that gear should cruise down the highway nicely.
 
Keep building your cages like you have and you wont have any tech problems.

Keep the car in the 10.0 ET and slower range. Remember, 9.99 and quicker means a chassis cert ($100 - 200) and a competition license (more $ to nhra):eek::eek:

Keep it in the low 10's and have a ton of fun.[cl:D

I am thinking a good solid 2x4 pedal block with that BBC motor.[P
 
I agree with you Tom. But someday someone else will own the car and might want to go faster. I'd like it to cert to 8.50. It will with the tubing I'm using.
I'll be getting a substantial tax refund then I'll be able to buy what I need to finish the car.
 
sc5080, you are building to a sfi spec. Does that spec call for DOM when using mild steel for the cage?

Sorry nick, for not answering your questions earlier. I am using a Holley 750 cfm carb. Model 3310. The old stand by. The engine could probably use more but it will go fast enough with this carb.

I've got a 8 3/4" Mopar rear end with a 2.8-something open diff. The 400 turbo trans has a pretty low first gear and with the car being light it should accelerate fine. I can't go quicker than 10.00 anyway. It's going to be street driven so that gear should cruise down the highway nicely.

Thanks.

I'm running a similar motor/tranny and was curious.

The panhard mount looks very stout. I like it.
 

I went to Harbor Fright and for only $38.00 I got an 11 gallon air tank to use for a gas tank. Cut the handles off of it and removed the labels with Goof Off. Removed the hose and valve. The 3/8" pipe nipple remaining is perfect for the gas line. The thing looks huge in the little car but it will be enclosed.

Good luck with your build, Nick.
 

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