solenoid problem?

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Got Rust?

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 24, 2010
Messages
1,365
Location
Stanwood, WA
OK hot rod gurus, hears the problem. When I try to start my Ford, (mallory dist.) the car turns over but won't start untill I release the key, then it fires right up most of the time. My preference would be that it starts when I tell it too. Any suggestions? It does have a solenoid mounted under the car, in a hard to reach place, and I already replaced the lock and key.
 
OK hot rod gurus, hears the problem. When I try to start my Ford, (mallory dist.) the car turns over but won't start untill I release the key, then it fires right up most of the time. My preference would be that it starts when I tell it too. Any suggestions? It does have a solenoid mounted under the car, in a hard to reach place, and I already replaced the lock and key.
Sounds like you're missing power to the coil when the key is in the start position. Run a jumper wire from the POS Batt. terminal over to the + side of the coil and then try turning it over.
 
Might try that, should mention that I have a relay (not solenoid) under the car in a hard to reach place. Even if the hot wire does wok, would be nice to know what da problem is.
 
Might try that, should mention that I have a relay (not solenoid) under the car in a hard to reach place. Even if the hot wire does wok, would be nice to know what da problem is.
If the jumper wire works, it'll prove your missing power to the coil when the key is in the start position. Then you'll need to rewire it some how to provide power to the coil in the start position.
 
Ford solenoids have 2 posts, 1 is for voltage to go to the coil while cranking the other goes to the starter, which is working or it wouldn't turn over.
Since you didn't say what year vehicle you're working on we're just guessing here.
We need more info.
From the sounds of it, you need a jumper on the back of the switch so you have voltage to the coil while cranking or run a wire from the solenoid to the coil
 

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funnty thing, I have been fighting that same thing for a while. found out the eyelet at the end of the pos wire to my coil was bad. Test light all the way from the go button to the eyelet and good to it but when I wiggled the eyelet it would flicker.:D:D
 
Originally, the coil wire from the "RUN" position on the key switch was passed through a resistor to drop the voltage to 9v - this was meant to lower wear on the points. The coil wire from the solenoid was there to bypass the resistor during cranking to deliver a full 12v.
 

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