A Massey-Harris 33.

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Thank you Bill.
I brought the motor home and am now taking things off it, masking other things, wire brushing like mad, getting ready to paint it.
I also jacked up the front of the tractor, removed the saw-horses supporting it, and primed the bare spots that were hidden by the sawhorses.
 
Here's a unique thing that most of you won't have to do, ---- hopefully. The first picture is the PTO shaft, doctored. Massey-Harris made their shaft slightly different than the other guys. It has the correct OD and number of splines, but the valleys are not as deep as most of the other manufacturer's. Therefore, you can't use other companies PTO driven equipment. I took my angle grinder with a new square edged disc and deepened the valleys. Then the pencil grinder took the valley deepening in closer to the bearing housing. Now I can use whatever machinery I want. There was a New Holland swather PTO female end in the shop, so I tried it on the 'doctored M-H spline. It slid on.
I have been taking pieces off the motor and cleaning things up. Here's the starter cleaned up and primed.
I didn't remember if I had the original M-H starter switch that doesn't need a solenoid. While digging around in the pile of sandblasted parts I found the starter switch, so I could remove the solenoid that came on that combine motor. I also found a bunch of new gauges, switches, linkages and an oil jug partly full of bolts. And the appropriate decals. All of these surprises are good finds.
 

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Today there was even more dismantling of the motor, more cleaning, more masking, and two thirds of the motor is now primed. I primed quite a few little pieces that I had taken off and some of the cleaned up bolts. The starter is painted black and the clutch pedal is installed and the linkage hooked up for the first of probably many times.
 

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Nice You're gaining on it. I didn't know about the pto shaft being different. When my Dad got his 44 special the pto shaft was not only bent but twisted too.
 
Thanks guys.
Kenny, I found that the whole shaft is softer metal than I first thought. I had to take 15 thousands of an inch out of each valley and it wasn't as hard as I thought. Also, I had a big Massey-Ferguson, [really a Minneapolis-Moline painted red], that had a twisted spline inside where you put it into gear. It turns out when they get twisted they won't come apart anymore. I assume the metal in the PTO shaft is too soft for the amount of power going through it.
 
I wouldn't think 45 horsepower could twist a shaft that big, but the driven machine must have stopped suddenly and completely.

I took the carb off and the governor, cleaned and masked the other side of the motor. Here it is in primer.
I've pretty well decided that I'll turn the carburetor around so the air inlet faces the back where the aircleaner will be. This means the throttle shaft arm won't work and the choke won't either. They'll both be backwards, but I'll change them. I don't think I'll have enough room to bend an intake pipe 180* if I leave the intake port sticking out frontwards. Are we having fun yet?
 

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Have to remember that shaft gets it’s power through a bunch of gears, no telling what kind of torque uprate it goes through.
 
Oh, I agree. It had to have a solid stop, like a bush hog hitting a stump or steel pipe ( I’ve done both) . I broke the roll pin that holds the free wheel adapter on my 8 N when I ran over a tire with the bush hog, saw it about as soon as I hit it. I replaced it with a cut off grade 5 bolt.
 
The PTO shaft only turns at 540 rpm when the engine is at operating rpm. so there is a great deal of reduction. These engines were generally long stroke which produced a lot of torque. I don't know what the engine rpm is though.
 
Ya Bama that's what I imagined had happened too.
Kenny, you got me to thinkin', I don't know how fast the engine should be turning over. Maybe 1800-1900 RPM. I'll have to set the governor on this combine engine, eventually. Like you say, the PTO shaft has to turn at 540, so I'll just put my tach on it and rev the motor up until it's going 540. The belt pulley should be going the right speed then too.

I got some painting done today and the choke on the carburetor is turned around.
 
Yesterday I went to a friends place and got a rough exhaust manifold that had the outlet going straight up, which is what I need. He said it had a hole burnt into it right below the outlet, so he gave it to me. At home, I was measuring it because it looked too long, and, being a rough measurer, I broke a quarter of the manifold right off. Imagine what would have happened if I had been trying to bolt it onto the block. Oh ya, and it had been too long, anyway.
I got a wee bit more painting done.

Kenny, it says in the book that I should run this motor at 1625 revs high idle so it will pull at 1500 revs all day under full load.
 
Here's a shot of the painted up motor. I'm starting to put it back together, now. The front wheels are cleaned up and primed. Half of the fan is painted.
 

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It's slow going, guys, cleaning all these little things, test-fitting, then sanding them, priming them, and painting them and letting them dry. That's when you remember that the bolts have to be the right colour too.
Do you see that nice tall oil filler tube on the side, well it just struck me that the hood will come down to about the top of the tube cap and it will be a few inches outside the filler hole. Rats.
 

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Thank you,28. I actually don't like the sound of a six cylinder in a car, screaming along at 3000-4000 revs, but I like the sound of a slow turning six. This one will be turning at 1500 and still will have extra power for this tractor. I figure it will have 50 hp. and it should have only 35. So I'll hear the power, ------ if the governor even opens up.
 

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