1966 International Travelall

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offroadrolls

Well-known member
RRR Supportor
Joined
Mar 20, 2012
Messages
1,412
Location
In a camper down at the shop
Today I arrived in Bayport MN just south of Stillwater MN to help my cousin get this old Travelall running. The back story is that this used to be mine and I sold it to his dad about 20 years ago. Then he ended up with it and parked it in his garage. Anyway, I got it running this morning and now he's offered it to me as I had first right of refusal when I sold it to his dad. I was hoping to drive it to Thursday at Grubers but the brake booster is stuck and I haven't heard back from @BobW on Grubers location yet. (Hey Bob if you're out there PM me Grubers address)
Anyway, as much as I hate to pass on this ole' girl, I'm just not the right guy for this project cuz I'm not a sheet metal guy at all. If I was, I'd restomod it onto an early 2000's Chevy truck frame with 4WD and an 8.1 workhorse engine.
As it sit's now, the rust has not completely taken it yet. The hardest part is going to be the rear quarters. It runs strong and is a 3 on the tree, There's also a 4 speed granny tranny available for it.
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Greg Gruber's address is 12101 Partridge Rd. N. North of Stillwater 6 miles. Go north on 95. Partridge Rd. is an angle left off of 95. Driveway is first after railroad overpass.
 
OK I guess it's official. I pulled the trigger and tied the knot today and this'll be my new build thread. I had to get back to Steamboat and couldn't wait any longer for a transport so, I decided to do it myself and rented a tow dolly.

Guess which one weighs more?

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Welp, I made it home without issue. Believe it or not the 97 FZJ80 Landcruiser I picked up in Iowa outweighs the 66 Travelall by 550 pounds so it towed it just fine. I returned the tow dolly today and it cost a whopping 155 bucks including 40 dollars worth of insurance and to think I was ready to pay 750 to a transport company. lol
So, as a guy does, I've been dreaming up all different kinds of scenarios as to what to do with this thing and the more time I spend around her it's starting to feel like I've been reunited with an old friend. (In the late 90's she was my daily for about 3 or 4 years)
Anyway, I've pulled back from the whole restomod idea and decided the best thing at this point would be to just get her to stop as she runs real good.
It's got Dana 44's front and rear with drum brakes all the way around. The issue it's having is the pedal is hard as a rock like there's no vacuum to the booster. But there is vacuum to the booster and if I remove the brake line from the single circuit master cylinder and loop it back into itself like I'm bleeding it, the pedal feels normal as it goes to the floor. So, I've drawn the conclusion that the first rubber line in the system is collapsed internally as it feeds into a 4 way tee up front on the frame. As many know, these old Binders can be a real PIA to find parts for not to mention they were not designed with serviceability in mind........To say the least, they might as well been engineered by BMW. So rather than spend a couple hours in a puddle of brake fluid trying to remove a rubber hose and the 4 way tee up on the inner part of the frame behind the exhaust manifold just to see if it's plugged so I can search for parts that may or may not be available, I'm going to retrofit parts that are readily available, starting with a power booster/dual circuit master cylinder with proportion valve assembly made for upgrading ones 68 Chevy truck. From there I'll either plumb it with Nicopp or perhaps I could buy a hard line kit made for a 69 Suburban. Either way, I'm thinking it'll be way easier than working to repair what's already been there for 58 years. And this way I don't have to be mindful repairing the old stuff, I can just rip it out!! In the future I'll keep my eye out for a set of axles from something newer and heavier with better bearings and brakes to put under it. But for now, I or anyone can will be able to move it around.
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Glad you made it home safe and sound. Pretty smart renting a dolly. I like where you are going with the International. Nice meting you, James. You are welcome back at Gruber's anytime.
 
I had a similar problem on my c10. Check the proportioning valve. I collapsed a front line and when I disconnected it the pedal was rock hard. Come to find out the proportioning valve has a built in safety feature that if one circuit opens up, the valve closes and lets the other circuit still operate the brakes. Fronts on one circuit, rears on another. Not sure if your truck has the same kind of deal but it's worth a look..
 

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