1956 F100 Angry Bird

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Wow, more love for those MG's than I imagined! It seems that for many MG enthusiasts, the dark side means plopping a V8 in those little things. For sure, it should make a wild ride. Since I have so many MGB parts left over from 2 1/2 parts cars, I am tempted to do the same thing. However, I think I would want something more unique. Like a 4 cylinder eco-boost if it would fit.

I am actually looking at a vintage trailer for my next project though. Something to pull behind Angry Bird.

Appreciate the comments. This is a fun group!

John L.

PS to Skip - dont personally know many AH owners, but will keep your offer in mind if I happen upon any. I just sold a MGB hardtop online, so I doubt it will be too hard to find a buyer.
 
If you're looking for something wild to do with a small modern engine in a small vintage sports car, this might be a good read...directionally speaking.

The site it's hosted on is misleading
'66 Sunbeam Minx Project - F20C/6sp/4-link/Discs...
http://67-72chevytrucks.com/vboard/showthread.php?t=332026

It's more of a 4 door family econo-box than the MGs are, but man, it's turning out nice.

This is before he blew it apart for paint.

DSCN8815Large.jpg
 
Yeah, I was toying with the idea of one of those old Volvo 122's or 544's. They sure would be easier to push around in the shop than American Iron!
 
Yeah, I was toying with the idea of one of those old Volvo 122's or 544's. They sure would be easier to push around in the shop than American Iron!
I had a 59 Volvo (444 I think) for a while. I radiused the rear wheel openings and put 8.5x15 Torque Thrusts on the back and 15x6 on the front. Looked pretty good. :eek: Then I left it parked in the wrong place... :( Further plans were cancelled. :D
 
Just read the Minx build and his truck with vette chassis build. Sounds very familiar! I just started a 72 chevy blazer on an 02 vette chassis project for a customer...
 
My latest adventure was trying to get the twitch out of my steering set-up. The T-bird SC had the electronic variable orifice which was coupled with their ride control computer. Might have been a cool feature, except I couldn't use the SC front end. So I deleted the computer and the EVO defaulted to the larger 3 gpm. My Jag rack wanted 2 gpm. What I got was loose low end steering and extremely twitchy steering at higher speeds.

Using advice from the Super Coupe forum and the Mustang forums, I replaced the EVO with a standard ford orifice, then cut the valve spring as recommended by the Mustang folks. Getting the correct adapters to make the conversion was a week long adventure, but the end result was a more firm wheel. Not as much as I would have liked, but I blame this on the differences between the Ford PS and the Jag rack.

Have any of you folks taken this any further? Like the Heidt pressure regulator? Any other tricks to get a firmer wheel?

Thanks,

John L.
 

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Drop Box under bed storage

Hey we all keep things under the bed, right? Well, I had just enough room on one side of the driveline to put a drop box storage area before I start putting a bed in the truck. It will be accessed through a floor board hatch.

This drop box basically utilizes the last space available under the truck: Gas tank is below cab floor on LH side; Compressor air system under cab floor on RH side; Spare tire at rear; exhaust/muffler on LH side of driveline; New storage drop box on RH side of driveline.

Looking forward to finally putting a bed in. Got a bunch of hickory flooring left over from a kitchen remodel that a buddy gave me. It has a distressed finish - perfect for the rat rod decor.

John
 

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Looks like a good place to hide contraband.[ddd My wife's Grandpa was a bootlegger when he was alive, he had a 68 Chevy LWB truck that had several hidden boxes like that to haul whiskey in. Must have worked pretty good, he never got caught hauling any! :D
 
Well, I was only going to see if the concept worked and ended up cutting all the flooring for the bed. The drop box actually helped in that I was short on floor boards. Each board was 30" or under and had to be cut to fit between bed supports.

I had planned to have a gull wing in the center to allow access to the IRS from above. The segment of the rear panel will also hinge open for spare tire access.

Not the ideal floor board material, but the price was right, and it works for the concept I had in mind.

John
 

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Look nice....

Well, I was only going to see if the concept worked and ended up cutting all the flooring for the bed. The drop box actually helped in that I was short on floor boards. Each board was 30" or under and had to be cut to fit between bed supports.

I had planned to have a gull wing in the center to allow access to the IRS from above. The segment of the rear panel will also hinge open for spare tire access.

Not the ideal floor board material, but the price was right, and it works for the concept I had in mind.

John

Cheap boards are good....looks nice...what is the material? Like a laminate? If so I'd seal both sides....JMHO...
 
Good question - although it appears to be like a plywood. The core material is actual wood, not press board or particle board. I was going to glue the T/G joints, then paint the underside black like the rest of the underside.

I am going to have to put connecting ribs of wood underneath for the hinged sections. Was considering hiding all hardware, but with them swinging up, it looks like top mounted hinges would work best. Thinking of marine type exposed chrome hinge used for deck hatches.
 
Yeah, I am still debating the hinging part. I think there are some boat type hinges that allow under deck mounting. Good thing I live next to the sea!

BTW - I had a chance to look at a cross cut of the flooring and it is solid hickory! I couldn't tell for sure with T/G around all edges. I also went to buy a couple extra pieces as I need to fill 2" at the edge. Nada. I would have to buy a box for $150. That defeats the purpose. The edge will be oak stained to match.
 
Good ideas CC. I am going to get the panels glued together and refit to the space. My bed is out of square (wow, how could that be?) so I will need to shuffle them in the space a bit. A true floating floor.

John
 
Well, it was floating, for a bit. And it did help with alignment. I then anchored those panels that were not designated as hatches, and was able to get it kind of squared up. The out of square got pushed back to the tailgate, where I will use a stainless steel closer cap.

BTW CC - did you find any pics of the hinges you had mentioned above?

John
 
Pics of the hinges...

sorry for the delay, I remembered just as I was about to call it a night and ran outside.... Sorry for all teh clutter I'm in the middle of rebuilding the gauge cluster in the truck....

the spring has a srew that runs through it, which adjusts how far the lid opens and closes, the spring holds the lid in both open and closed position, so that should keep your lid from bouning up and down when driving down the road, without adding another latch to keep it shut. :D

These were a little more than your average hings, but they are worth every penny in my book!
 

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Super - It is the concept I was looking for, but I will need to see if I can come up with the below deck mount. May have to fabricate a side or back wall to fasten it to. Right now, it is workable as a deck lid. However it is 24x24, so not real convenient for lifting or setting aside.

Thanks! John
 

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