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First time in my shop and 18 months later

Yeah, you're right about the panhard bar being necessary. I don' know what I was thinking. It was late when I asked this question. My main concern was about the front mounting point of the radius rods. Everything I have built in the past was either parallel 4 bars with panhard or triangulated...

I am thinking about using Speedway's Classis Rear Radius Rods 916-45110 to locate the rear end in my 1926 model T coupe. I am wondering about the front mount for the rods. I want to mount these in a triangle to a cross member to eliminate a panhard bar. The mount at the axle will be lower...

You need a fan shroud. No doubt in my mind this is your problem. Had the same problem with a 67 Camaro. Thought I didn't need it. Engine overheated. Installed a shroud. Problem fixed.

I have a 383 with 450 hp, 3.55 gears and 26" rear tires with no overdrive. I get 14 mpg with my foot in it all the time. As said earlier: higher gears, taller tires, get your tune right and hook up the vacuum advance. Get your advance curve right. It sounds to me like the carb tune is way off.

x2 for the same reason

I am worse than one track minded. I have absolute tunnel vision when working on a project to the total neglect of everything else, including mowing the lawn or anything else. I am retired so I will work from sunup till midnight everyday. Can't wait to finish a project. Totally obsessed.

195/60-15 and 295/50-15 BFG Radial TA on Real Wide5 Aluminum rims for my 27 T roadster

I have a thread going on the hamb. That has provided some help. I now have the driver side latch out. It took some prying and forcing and bending of the inner door panel to get it out. It appears that the window glass channel had it trapped.

Really! Nobody knows anything about model T door latches?

I am trying to get my 26 T Coupe ready to sand blast. I can't get the door latches out. Everything is loose but it is trapped in. Looks like something else needs to come apart, but I don't see anything else to take apart. Anybody know the trick to getting them out?

Yeah 21Willys, it was on craigs list in the Fort Wayne area. It actually came from Arcola. It's on SR14 just west of Ft.Wayne. He actually has a trailer load of 1926 Model T coupes and sedans. There were 8 of them when I was there. He said they all came from out west, but that was all the...

sorry 'puter seemed to be in a bad mood last night Well, the 1926 Model T Coupe is home in my shop. I hope I haven’t bitten of more than I can chew. I have never messed with a model T before. This is my second hot rod. The first was a fiberglass 27 roadster nothing like this real steel car...

Well, the 1926 Model T Coupe is home in my shop. I hope I haven’t bitten of more than I can chew. I have never messed with a model T before. This is my second hot rod. The first was a fiberglass 27 roadster nothing like this real steel car. The car is complete except for the engine, the...

Thanks guys for all the replys. I really like to do all my own fabricating. I am a certified welder. Been welding and fabricating for 45 years. Not really looking for a challenge. I just thought that it might have been easier to start with the original frame to use all the body and fender...

I am going to pick up my new (to me) 1926 T coupe this morning. It is complete less engine, hood , and grille shell. It is in very good shape with only one rust through on the left rear corner. My plan is to install a very mild SBC/700r4. My 27 T roadster is a monster. I don’t need another...

Lowering a car by cutting coils off the spring will change a-arm angles, changing all the front end geometry, such as caster, camber, toe, roll centers, etc. As RPM stated there may not be enough adjustment to get the geometry back to correct.

You should weld a sleeve into the frame tube to keep from squashing it. Or for my body mounts, I have fabricated brackets to weld to the frame, then you don't have to drill through the frame, which can provide a place to start a crack. The brackets make a cleaner installation.

Check the angle of the crank with an angle finder on the harmonic balancer or on the tailshaft of the trans. Set the pinion equal and opposite. If you are mounting the 4 bar in rubber, go down probably 2-3* from equal and opposite.

3* I think basically comes from the mounting angle of the carb. On a SBC the carb is mounted at 3* degrees from the crank centerline. Engine @ 3* down gets the carb level. Annoying Eric. In order to suggest a pinion mounting angle, we must know the angle of the engine/trans or at least the...