1927 Roadster

[offroadrolls]

Yesterday I was pumped to move a couple water tanks into a massive hole I dug for another 3700 gallons of fresh water storage.

Then it started to rain . What a momentum killer that was. Not being very good a changing directions, I took a nap. Turns out, a nap was all I needed to find some momentum in a different direction. So I went down to the shop and built some mounting brackets to incorporate the Silver Cloud cross member/motor mount doo-hickey on to the 27 frame.

But first, the remaining part of the old motor mounts needed to be ground off.

Here's the cross member/ motor mount thingamajig.

Figure out dimensions

Not pretty yet but dimensions worked out.

Starting to look better but too fat on top

I liked this so I went with it.

Here's all nuts bolts and washers that were used on the Rolls. Looks like I lost one of the 16 washers.

Finished.....I think.

From here the engine can be dropped in and set in the correct position Then the brackets will be tack welded to frame, engine lifted back out, and brackets finish welded.

 

[bob w]

Looks real solid. Nice work.

 

[earthman]

Rat rod imagineering is so much more interesting. [P

 

[offroadrolls]

Quick Question

I need to install 3.5" drop steering arms on the spindles so the center drag link will go below the wishbone radius arms.
In order to install them, I'll need to cut the stock steering arms off the forged stock spindles.

My question is, are these stock Ford spindle of any value or rare, as in OMG don't cut and grind on those?

Spindles without the steering arm are readily available in the aftermarket but, they cost money, I already own these.

 

[MercuryMac]

I see the problem having two solutions. The guys that tell you 'OMG, you can't cut them up', should have to buy them from you, OR --- you could cut the arms off of them and bolt on your new arms and get going. You're building a hotrod; go for it.

 

[offroadrolls]

Thanks Mac, Bob W say's they go for 100 a pair and Speedway gets 180.00 and up for repros without the arm. So yes you're right I'll be cutting and grinding in the very near future.

 

[offroadrolls]

What's this

Haven't had any time to tackle anything big on the roadster So I'm just doing small stuff and thought it might be fun to play a game of what's this. See if you can figure it out before the 3rd picture.

I took it apart so I could clean and polish the other side.

After cleaning and polishing, it was put back together. Note the small copper safety wire on the #4 castle nut.

It's the oil filler cap. Ha!

 

[MercuryMac]

I guess I don't win the prize. I had guessed the top of a fuel pump.

 

[dutch]

that`s just beautiful, isn`t it...

 

[Old Iron]

Cool part

 

[earthman]

If i had seen that in an antique store i would have bought it just because.

 

[offroadrolls]

If i had seen that in an antique store i would have bought it just because.

I agree, it'd make a nice paper weight. Here's a photo of where it is on the engine but, all tarnished and dingy.

 

[offroadrolls]

In addition to the tarnished oil filler cap, it's been discovered that the fabrication and welding of the frame had not been completed. After removing both the front and rear axles, we flipped the frame over for inspection. It's good and flat and square as heck but, it turns out most of the rectangular tubing used to join the 32 frame rails together and then to the rear axle support assembly had only been welded on 3 sides. Also, the points where the frame rails are joined to the rear axle support assembly are in need of some additional support and finally, the frame box-in plates were installed very poorly.This is concerning because all of the rectangular tube inner frame structure is welded to the box-in plates.
Although the situation is less than desirable, it's not as bad as it could have been and going over everything will still be simpler than starting from scratch. Here's some before and after pictures as the work has started.

 

[Old Iron]

Mucho bueno

 

[bob w]

Looks sturdy now.

 

[offroadrolls]

Looks sturdy now.

Yes sturdier for sure but I can't help but think it needs some more. So I've been staring and thinking .. Today I came up with this thinking this could then be gusseted to the 32 rails with a flat plate.

 

[offroadrolls]

So, the dilemma with using the RR rear axle has been that it's 5 on 5.5 and the wheels that came with the car are a dual pattern, 5 on 4.5 and 5 on 4.75. The simple solution would be to buy a couple of 5 on 5.5 wheels and move the trim rings and hub caps over to them but, man these things are pricey. What's worse is if I went that route, I'd be out 550.00 and have 2 extra wheels laying around. So, since I have more time than money, I decided to drill the wheel mounting flanges and brake drums to 5 on 4.75 and use the wheels I already own. For this I had to enlist the help of Dale, the resident machinist, he's got the book and the knowledge to use it.

Finding center on the brake drum

After the drums were done we move on to mounting the first axle to an angle plate.

The worst part of doing the axles is setting up the head on the mill as the axle is hanging off the back of the table.

Last, we used a boring tool to get to a .60" hole which is where we needed to be to use the wheels studs that are in the axles in the 8" Ford rear end that came with the car.

At this point I'll need to make some shims to back up the brake drum when the wheel is attached with the lug nuts.

 

[dutch]

They are an absolute Must Have.... I have one too. A friend with a book who knows how to use it. They are few and far between these days.

 

[lowbudget50]

Very cool!!! Helps to have a good machinest around!! What the can do is amazing!!

 

[bob w]

Making chips is much better than spending money.