1947 Mercury Build

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Lightspeed Mike

Well-known member
Joined
Nov 20, 2008
Messages
53
Location
Belleville, Ont, Canada
Hi All

I introduced myself a little while ago and showed a few pics of my rat. Got a few compliments and requests for more pictures. Since right now I'm doing more waiting for parts than building I thought I would finally get to posting my build.

When I started this project I had a couple of goals in mind. First, it had to be cheap. Second, I didn't want this project to be a couple of year build (hoped for less than a year but it didn't happen). Third, it had to be low.

I was kinda hoping for something like a model A RPU but here in Canada they are like gold. IE hard to find and expensive. I wanted something a little bigger than that too so I started looking and found this cab during a slow period at work while surfing the net. It was fairly solid and the price was right so I scooped it up. It's a little rusty on the roof and floor is rotten but I really couldn't expect much better for the price. I pasted up a lot worse. The floor was going to be replaced any way during the channel over the frame.

I got a couple of boxes of parts with it, some got used, some are garbage, some will be sold to restorers.

Just for those who don't know. A Mercury pick up is a Canadian version of a Ford pick up with different and usually nicer trim than the Ford counter parts.

Lightspeed Mike
 

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Front frame rails

Since there weren't going to be any fenders to hide under,the front frame had to look good. So I made up a couple old fashion style holey frame rails. I know most people take some tubing and hole saw it then sleeve it. Since I've got a CNC plasma cutter I did mine this way. I first cut out the 2 sides and cut my sleeves out and welding them together on the inside. Then I could weld the outside and weld the tops and bottoms on them. The holes are all the same size but the rails taper from 4" down to 3" at the front. This looks way cooler IMHO and joins the 4" X 2" square tubing to the 3" round front cross member.

Lightspeed Mike
 

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Well after getting the front rails together it was time to build the rest. I drew up the the profile in CAD just so I could figure out how much kick up I needed in the rear and front to get it as low as I wanted. I measured the rear end and body to figure out how wide and where it will taper in. First I made the corners. I hate square corners. So I cut out a bunch of pieces welded and them up. I joined the corners with 4" X 2" X .125" tubing. All the joints were internally fish plated. To keep everything straight, square and easy to measure I welding the main rails to some scrap 4" X 3" tubing I had kicking around. I attached the front rails pinching them 3" from the firewall to the front cross member. I used a pieced of 3" X .25" DOM tubing for the front. Welding the frame together without warping it, keeping my eyes on it with a digital level was a exercise in patience. A couple of times I had to do some cutting to realign things.
 

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art

Since there weren't going to be any fenders to hide under,the front frame had to look good. So I made up a couple old fashion style holey frame rails.
Lightspeed Mike

This whole chassis[frame] is so pleasing to the eye,with all the rounded corners and lightening holes, its a shame you have to cover any of it.!

nice work ,safe,strong and stylish !.

cheers.:)
 
I dont think that frame will match what your building.You might just want to give me your address so I can come get those rails outta your way!!!:D[dr
 
With the main frame almost done it was time start the rear suspension. I wanted use a triangle 4 link and airbags. I measured for ride height and tacked some scrap tubing between the rear end and the frame to hold everything square. I had some shocks from the front of a 4X4 s-10 pickup and figured they would do. Ordered some airbags off the internet, rod ends from a supplier and DOM tubing from my metal supplier. I measured up a few cars for bracket location and went to work drawing up my own lower multi bracket to hold the lower bar and shock. 2 attempts later I got it right. Welded them together and tacked them to the diff. Figured where the bars should go and made them to length. Made some weld in bungs from 1 barstock, drilled the frame and welded the pieces in to place. With a little bit of by gosh and by golly figuring the upper bars were done the same way.
Next a cross member and airbag mounts. I figured bag height and figured where they should go. Drew up some stuff in CAD and cut them out. Tacked everything together and cycled it through the suspension travel. It went up and down with out any binding or braking of the tack welds so I double checked made sure the bars were in correct angles at ride right and finished welding.
 

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Plain to see this ain't your first rodeo! Great work. Never occurred to me to build frame rails out of plate, rather than tubing.

Look forward to seeing the rest as it happens. Keep the pics and narrative coming.
 
I agree with Gregster,I thought the front looked good but I really like those rear corners.Little touchs like that will make your rod stand out from the pack.Now get to work and take more pics!!!:D[P
 
compressor box

Well now that the rear suspension is all set I needed a way to be able to adjust the rear air bags. I planned to use this truck as a truck so I would need them to be adjustable. So I fired up the old master card and ordered a compressor kit. I didn't plan on doing any bunny tricks with it so a small tank and compressor would do. This Firestone kit come with compressor, tank, line, wiring, switches and gauges. The gauge is 2 in 1, and has 2 switches so each bag is controlled independently. I was going to build a box for the compressor but instead found this stainless box at a flea market for $10.:D Looked like it was a paper towel dispenser. Fit perfectly at the back, so a couple of pieces 1 X 1 square tube a little welding and drilling, done. The box is also big enough to double as a small tool box, bonus!!
 

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Engine mounts

Time for the engine and trans to get mounted. With the truck real low I wanted to make sure nothing was going to be below the frame rails. I'd rather have scuffs on the frame than holes in my oil pan or a smashed transmission case. So with frame sitting about ride height I placed the engine/trans on to a couple of cross members clamped to the bottom of the frame rails and leveled things up. I used the height of the pinion as a basic reference for the height of the output shaft of the trans. Measured side to side. and started making cardboard patterns. After coming up with some I liked I drew them up in CAD and cut them out. (I also made up a trans cross member which afterwords I cut back out because it wasn't going to work with the exhaust and X member I was going to build) Tacked them into place. Removed the engine and trans and finished welding everything up.
Pop quiz time. What engine and trans am I using?

Lightspeed Mike
 

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