1953 Chevy, no spark, new coil

[Greg@RME]

I'm trying to get a car running that has been sitting for MANY years. It's a 1953 Chevy 210 with a 235 6 cyl with the original 6 volt wiring.

It turns over and has good compression, but it's not getting spark. The old coil had a hole punched in it and was leaking out the oil. The old coil had a part number on it, IC-9. My local NAPA didn't have a replacement, but they recommended a IC-7, which is also 6 Volt and they did have in stock. I took it home, hooked up the positive & negative terminals on the coil and tried cranking it over again... still, no spark.

I have power to both terminals and just in case, I ran a 2nd wire directly from the positive battery terminal to the positive coil wire with the same result... nothing.

I don't have a key for the ignition, but the ignition is broken anyhow and you can turn the engine over without a key. I've been doing that and just jumping the starter terminals and nothing had changed.

I did find a IC-9 coil online, so I ordered it but I don't think that's the issue.

Any other ideas? I'd appreciate any input. Thank in advance!

 

[bob w]

Have you removed the distributer cap and looked at the points, rotor and the terminals in the cap? Clean the contacts on the points and set the gap. Clean the contacts in the cap. Also, clean the contacts on the rotor. Buy a new condensor. Better yet, get new points, rotor and cap too. Also look for frayed wires in the distributer that could ground the points. Good luck getting your cool car, 'er truck running.

 

[Greg@RME]

Have you removed the distributer cap and looked at the points, rotor and the terminals in the cap? Clean the contacts on the points and set the gap. Clean the contacts in the cap. Also, clean the contacts on the rotor. Buy a new condensor. Better yet, get new points, rotor and cap too. Also look for frayed wires in the distributer that could ground the points. Good luck getting your cool car, 'er truck running.

Thanks Bob!

I have pulled the cap, the cap & rotor look good actually, so do the points, looks like they were just replaced before the car was parked.

I'm not even getting spark directly from the coil, that's what has me stumped. If I were getting a spark at the coil wire, but not the plugs I'd be looking hard at the distributor, points, etc.

 

[bob w]

Sounds like someone was trying to solve a problem with new ignition parts before parking the car/truck. Does the distributer shaft rotate on the starter motor? I've had a cam gear fail on an old Chevy 6 (it was a fiber gear)and the distributer runs off the cam. However, you said it had good compression so it is probably not that. Leave the cap off and turn the engine over with the ignition on as see if there is arcing across the points. If you have the engine positioned so the points are closed and have the cap off you should be able to break the points apart with your thumbnail and see an arc from the coil wire if you it hold a quarter inch from a ground.

 

[Greg@RME]

Sounds like someone was trying to solve a problem with new ignition parts before parking the car/truck. Does the distributer shaft rotate on the starter motor? I've had a cam gear fail on an old Chevy 6 (it was a fiber gear)and the distributer runs off the cam.

I had the same thought, perhaps the car quit running at one point & the previous owner did & quick & dirty tuneup to try get it running, with no luck.

Excellent idea about the distributor shaft turning Bob! I did check it and the shaft does turn as the engine is cranked over.

I have power on both sides of the coil and going into the distributor, could the capacitor being bad not allow the circuit to complete or stop the coil from firing? Hate to say it, but I know nothing about points. Good time to learn though!

 

[Greg@RME]

... Leave the cap off and turn the engine over with the ignition on as see if there is arcing across the points. If you have the engine positioned so the points are closed and have the cap off you should be able to break the points apart with your thumbnail and see an arc from the coil wire if you it hold a quarter inch from a ground.

OK, I will try that tomorrow... getting late now and I've been playing with this thing since I got home from work. Better get cleaned up and ready for bed!

Thanks again!

 

[Bonehead]

I would go back and check that ignition switch. Make sure you have a hot, besides just a crank. It may be turning over with the ignition in the "off position"

 

[Greg@RME]

I would go back and check that ignition switch. Make sure you have a hot, besides just a crank. It may be turning over with the ignition in the "off position"

That's what I was wondering... I crawled under the dash and have 4 terminals on the back side of the ignition switch that I ground out together and turned over the engine, but I wasn't able to do that and check for spark under the hood at the same time.

I did have everything together under the hood, sprayed some starting fluid down the carb and ground out all 4 terminals at the ignition switch to turn the engine over and it didn't come close to firing.

I think I'll play with this idea tomorrow, maybe involve the wifes help. [ddev

 

[Sniper]

Not a 100% certain, but I thought the early 50's chevy's were positive ground systems. Did the battery get installed backwards, and coil wires switched thinking it was a negative ground system? It would still turn over even with the battery installed in a reverse fashion, but the rest of the changes would and could mess up the spark.

 

[Reverend D]

I donno the 51 I had was 6 volt, but not positive ground...

Regards,

Rev. D.

 

[Sniper]

Take a look on the regulator, it should be stamped with either 6VP (POS GRD) or 6VN (NEG GRD) just to be sure. Cause I'm not.

 

[Sniper]

Just went for a little stroll through the internet, found a site www.oldcarmanualproject.com and it has a slew of info including chevy wiring diagrams. Rev.D is right, it shows neg grd systems only for the 50's chevy cars. He's right, I'm wrong.

 

[Greg@RME]

Not a 100% certain, but I thought the early 50's chevy's were positive ground systems. Did the battery get installed backwards, and coil wires switched thinking it was a negative ground system? It would still turn over even with the battery installed in a reverse fashion, but the rest of the changes would and could mess up the spark.

Hummmm.... interesting thought. I'll have to do some searching, I suppose it's possible.

I installed the new battery same as the old, and connected the coil wires as they were. I haven't changed the wiring from how it was.

 

[Greg@RME]

Take a look on the regulator, it should be stamped with either 6VP (POS GRD) or 6VN (NEG GRD) just to be sure. Cause I'm not.

I'll go check that soon as I finish here, great idea!

Just went for a little stroll through the internet, found a site www.oldcarmanualproject.com and it has a slew of info including chevy wiring diagrams. Rev.D is right, it shows neg grd systems only for the 50's chevy cars. He's right, I'm wrong.

I just found this-

1953-1954 Bel Air Custom Analog Dash Guage Cluster With Tach

These cool new analog dash clusters will make your classic 1953-1954 Bel Air, 150 or 210 "old school with high tech" ! These great dashes feature full instrumentation AND a tachometer. Ready to install. NOTE: These clusters require your car be converted to a "12 VOLT, NEGATIVE GROUND" electrical system. They will NOT work with your original 6 volt positive ground system.

From- http://www.bobsclassicchevy.com/1953-1954-bel-air-custom-analog-dash-guage-cluster-with-tach.html

 

[Greg@RME]

Just looked on my sweet Montgomery Ward regulator.... 6V Neg. Ground. On to other ideas!

 

[Sam_Fear]

I have power to both terminals and just in case, I ran a 2nd wire directly from the positive battery terminal to the positive coil wire with the same result... nothing.

Isn't that just by-passing your distributor and leaving the coil energized constant - and...uh....won't that fry a coil after a few minutes? I have to re-remember ignition everytime I deal with it.

Don't forget to check for good ground to the block. ...and remember to put the rotor back in the dizzy - that's the one I usually burn myself on.

 

[sneakysnake]

Heres is a diagram to better understand points.
Some things to check for,
The voltage going to the + side of the coil goes through a resister that drops it to 8 or 9 volts but a wire off the starter sol "I" will give it full 12v during starting.OK from the - side of the coil goes to the Dist and the points.The points are a "on/off" switch to ground for the coil, every time the lobe on the dist turns it open and closes the points.
If you have a multimeter unhook the wire from the - side of the coil ohm to ground,turn the motor over and every time the points close the meter should beep or 0 out, If it doesnt then its not making contact.If it stays 0 then you have a short to ground in your points..Another thing is to check where the wire hooks to the points, the points are insolated from ground except for when theyre closed so check the screw to make sure it on the insolator or otherwise its all time grounded and it will ground out the coil and not spark.

 

[cking894]

I would double check the wiring to the coil. The + side is wired to the ignition switch and the - goes to the distributor. The old owner may have wired it up backward.

Keith

 

[Greg@RME]

Guess what guys.... [cl

Video is currently uploading, will have it posted in the build thread in about an hour. I will include a link from here to the build thread & video.

I appreciate all the help, you guys really made me think!

 

[Lightning]

Guess what guys.... [cl

Video is currently uploading, will have it posted in the build thread in about an hour. I will include a link from here to the build thread & video.

I appreciate all the help, you guys really made me think!

Good to see it running - BUT - are ya going to tell us why no spark? honest we won't laugh.