36 chevy truck

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Man Im a slacker. lol I just looked back And saw that I already posted up my exhaust over a month ago. Boy I need to get this thing going.
 
I finally finished my exhaust about a week ago, I had to have a shop weld them I kept blowing thru, It only cost me $125 to weld. I had to fire the motor and man I need baffles, any suggestions on making some? I also had a couple of cylinders that look like there not getting to hot I hope plugs and wires take care of that.
 

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Looks cool as heck....

Never saw baffles made that small for each tube but they have to have something out there that would work.... how big are the tubes... ID?
 
I remember someone talking about these long ago, it would be cheap and easy. Take 2" washers with 1/2" holes drilled around the center hole maybe about 6 of them and a 5" or 6" long piece of 1" tubing welded to the center with many 1/2" holes drilled in it then insert and put a few tacks to hold it in. Should this work or restrict to much? And also can someone input on why a couple of my cylinders didnt get hot? Is my motor f'ed
 
Im not an engine guy.lol nor am I a rod builder but im learning daily. maybe I should get a cap and rotor, plugs,and wires and see if that resolves it.
 
I remember someone talking about these long ago, it would be cheap and easy. Take 2" washers with 1/2" holes drilled around the center hole maybe about 6 of them and a 5" or 6" long piece of 1" tubing welded to the center with many 1/2" holes drilled in it then insert and put a few tacks to hold it in. Should this work or restrict to much? And also can someone input on why a couple of my cylinders didnt get hot? Is my motor f'ed

I haven't done it, but this should work. As for being too restrictive, not sure, but you can always drill more holes or shorten it up.
 
I have no input on the baffles, but before you get this on the road, take that driveshaft to a driveshaft shop and let'em put a new tube in it..it's not that expensive and it will be safe..it's not hard to shorten one at home,I've done a bunch of'em, but not in the middle of the tube..[;)

really like your project
 
I got a little more done on my truck. I cut the driveline which I found out I did wrong, Oh well I hope it dont wobble to much. I also mocked up one of my zoomies. I bought a mandrel bent 2" u and cut it three times and was able to make one pipe out of it, so 7 more to go and then I can box in the front.

What is the ID of your pipes? I made mine from one size smaller pipe with holes drilled and "O" steel wool wrapped tightly around to muffle the sound. I would most definitely take that drive shaft to your local driveline specialist and let them balance that baby . Other wise , you could wind up replacing a lot of bearings and seals. JMO
 
Yes, the 4.49 ones. My pipes come down into 2 on each side, so i used 4 of them. My pipes are also 2" ID, they fit perfect and gave it some needed back pressure... they have other size ones also for that price depending on your pipe ID.

Chad
 
Yes, the 4.49 ones. My pipes come down into 2 on each side, so i used 4 of them. My pipes are also 2" ID, they fit perfect and gave it some needed back pressure... they have other size ones also for that price depending on your pipe ID.

Chad

Right on thanks Chad I might try those out. Whats your build?
 
My 46 chevy truck that's been on the road sense last summer, not many changes have been done on it so far but soon. Also have a 41 chevy truck that will be drug into the garage within the next month or so.
 
Sounds cool, man I would trade my 36 for a 41 now knowing what a headache all the wood is. I hope to be on the road this summer.
 
Finally got a little work done, I cut out the hole for the steering boxand relocated it but after mounting the box I realized I have a problem. the top of the box is about 3/8" from my header flange. Which way does the motor shift and will this work or do I have to go with solid mounts?
 

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