'38 Chevy Truck Build

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frankthedog

Active member
Joined
Jan 17, 2010
Messages
29
This is my first rat build and am looking for some input and recommendations.

I picked the truck up recently with no motor but a very solid frame and body. Since then I have picked up a posi traction rear end from an S-10, a saginaw 4 speed and small block 350.

I would like to chop the top and z the chassis. I have some rookie questions I would appreciate any feedback.

A couple questions:

I would like to run the original suspension in the front along with the stock fenders. I see many wrong run a wishbone style suspension. Is keeping the parrelel leaf a mistake?

Assuming I stay with the stock suspension. Any recommensations on disc brake conversions?

For rear suspension, is it best to junk the rear frame and put in a four link or ladder bar system or is anyone keeping the leafs and lower by remounting the leafs or differenting axel mounts.

Sorry for the rookie questions but you all have some great ideas

I attached so photos for you
 

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Cab is coming off

Just a quick update...pulled everything off but the cab until I can round up some helpers. Not sure how best to z the frame with the rear leaf spring perch in the way. I'm assuming I will have to notch the front of the cab. Anybody have an opinion?

Progress... slow but stready
 

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With a saw and/or torch, welder, and grinder anything is possible. What you will do depends on a lot of factors. How long do you want the bed? How close to the ground do you want it to set. What are the plans for the front end?

There are endless ways to do it. My suggestion is to read as many threads as possible, searching for those that are doing something similar frame wise, and then decide whether and how much of the original frame you want to use.

I don't have any experience in modifying stock frames so can't help you there. You can read my thread for information on one way of building a frame and suspension.

I end up building everything at least twice. First time is to figure out how not to do it.
Good luck, just jump and and do it
 
I think it depends on how much you Z the frame.

Rear suspension, depends on what use you are building it for. I hear 4-link is (or may not be) not soo good on the street. If you build it for track use then 4-link is the way to go.

Dont know a thing about wishbones...[S

Dont worry about rookie questions, ask and someone will answer. Round here, the only stupid question is the one you didnt ask...

Good luck on your build and remember, any forward progress is good progress.
 
Rear suspension, depends on what use you are building it for. I hear 4-link is (or may not be) not soo good on the street. If you build it for track use then 4-link is the way to go.


4-links are great for everything all depends on how you set it up.

for me i like triangulated 3 links in the rear.:D
 
What's your final plan? Just kinda curious what 'look' your going for. You say your going to keep the fenders - is that final? That opens a few of doors suspension-wise. Since it'll be hidden, you could sub in a IFS and have a better ride and instant disk brakes. Do you plan to shorten the wheelbase? That kinda changes what you can do for suspension.

If you check out the Bonehead truck - he actually has his front mounts for the rear leafs inside the cab. http://ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=1969&page=9
 
Thanks for the reference and great video. I'm not completely committed to to front fenders however all the steel is in great shape and think it can still have a pretty slick look. As far as the wheelbase, I think I will leave it as stock as the front leafs pretty much lock in where the front end sits.

The body is coming off today and will get some more pics out there. Thanks for all the feedback...going to need it :)
 
You can move your axles over the springs - gives you several inches of drop, Depending, you can also remove a few leafs. Might run the axle into the frame though, so that would mean a C-notch for the rear. I'd say Z the frame to what you want. I think moving the axle out front was the way to lower a straight axle front a lot - otherwise your limited by the axle hitting things. If you want it to slam it, you'll have to ditch the straight axle in the stock location.
 
Frame is chopped and the new rear end is in

Quick update. Put the new rearend in from a mid 90's s-10. Used 2inch cast lowering blocks. Also finished welding up the frame after dropping it 6 inches. Next I will start boxing in the chassis.

Question - Anyone use the stock steering box as it mounts inside the frame? I want to run headers and not sure I will have enough room.


Not a whole lot of progress since the last update but been working on getter in small block fluffed up with some new guts. I'll get some picks of that posted soon.
 

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Put the cab back on the frame after finishing the frame work. Starting to get some character. Going to figure out the motor mount placement however the steering box is going to be right in the way of the headers.

Some new pics of it back on the frame.
 

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So I'm way overdue for a post. Tough to pull away to update when building is more fun :)

Try and get caught up... some members asked for pictures of the pics of the front frame Z location so I tried to get some pics of that.

After z'ing the frame, I had to cut the gill and nose to line up with body. I think it looks pretty cool.
 

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Installed the fuel cell and fuel pump brackets. Ran the fuel lines up to the motor. Fabbed up the collectors and exhaust. Running flowmaster 44's so its got a pretty good tone. Mounted radiator, alternator.... Started it for the first time on saturday and broke in the cam. Pretty pleased however I think its running a bit too lean.

Cut out the inside of the bed so I could drop it down to match the cab. After looking at it, I think I will shorten it about 6 inches and the material to french the front of the box into the cab.

Installed front disc setup. I need some guidance on what to run for the master cylinder and clutch master/slave cylinder. Planning to run a setup with attached pedals under the floor but will defer to the experts. For transmission, I have an old saginaw 4 speed. Looking for guidance on brake clutch slave cylinder that I can use as well as bracketry for the clutch slave. Is this something I should build myself or is there a vehicle that uses one that will work?


Also picked up a rear seat out of a caravan for it which fit perfect.
 

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Got a set of fenders for the back from a 1938 panel truck. They have the right shape but are going to need some good patch work and be widened with some mounting flanges to fit. Wish I could run fenderless, but dont think i can get it registered....

This should keep me busy for a while
 
So I know its been a long time as I forced myself to finish my 66 lincoln before I got back to the rat otherwise i never would have completed it. Lincoln's done so back to '38...

Mounted front fenders on cowl/grill that was dropped by six inches to match the cab and realized I would have no steering based on clearance issues. So my options are to widen the fenders and/or elongate the wheel opening. I have opened the fenders up by 3 inches and looks like i may be able to live with this. Want to make sure it doesnt look dumb and actually matches where the rear fenders will sit. Interested in any input... and I know there will be some haters that will say just go fenderless however i think this will have a cool look.

So on to the back fenders, turning a set of panel truck fenders into some wide step side fenders. Hoping to turn swiss cheese into cheddar cheese. More to come
 

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