48 fire truck roadster

[truckster]

Now that is funny! About 10" would do it.

If you raised it about 4 or 5 inches as well, then the brake reservoir would fit under the floorboard.

There, glad we could be of constructive help.

 

[DJ3100]

you know, if you just widened the cab a little you would have room for the pedal..........

That's what I keep thinking. Or maybe I could raise the body so the floor is above the transmission -like it's supposed to be.

I was planning on getting the steering column mounted but the column I have doesn't tilt. Since I'm not exactly sure of the seat position I'm not sure about the location of the steering wheel, so I really want a tilt column. That may be a project for today while I'm waiting for the bushings for the brake pedal.

 

[jfg455]

you made me think of a funny idiosyncrocies I have. I install tilt columns in my rides but I put the column in so that when I drive the column is straight (not tilted up or down). I hate the look of a tilt column that is thrown in wrong and you have to drive with it all the way up to get your legs under it. [S

I am just weird

 

[earthman]

you made me think of a funny idiosyncrocies I have.
I am just weird

Whew! I'm glad you said it first JFG.We can relax now

 

[jfg455]

Whew! I'm glad you said it first JFG.We can relax now

lol! I am passed denial and anger and now am on to acceptance![cl

 

[DJ3100]

you made me think of a funny idiosyncrocies I have. I install tilt columns in my rides but I put the column in so that when I drive the column is straight (not tilted up or down). I hate the look of a tilt column that is thrown in wrong and you have to drive with it all the way up to get your legs under it. [S

I am just weird

I have been giving your afore mentioned idiosyncrocy a lot of thought and actually I have the same one. My '53 3100 doesn't tilt and it just seems right. My vehicles that do have tilt - I don't tilt. So maybe I don't need a tilt column.

On the other hand, I'm thinking this thing will get sold before the '53 and maybe before the F2 Stang. Maybe the guy who wants it will be taller than me - everyone else is.

Anyhow, thanks for the input and adding to my constant state of confusion - just kidding.

 

[jfg455]

don't get me wrong, I like the tilt and put them in everything, I just seem to drive in the straight position. errr.........?

 

[DJ3100]

Progress?

I used the cherry picker to lift the body off. I have it sitting on stock stands to keep it in the air.

I didn't take photos of the hole saw I used to cut the 1 1/2" hole. It was missing about 10 teeth when I finally got through the 1/4" wall tube.

I TIG welded in the .125 wall 1.5 diameter DOM tube. I had to lay on the floor right under the weld, hoping I didn't loose the puddle and have it land on my chest. It could have been a little prettier, but it's not bad.

The next photo is of my broaching set-up. It's a little nerve wracking making sure the broach is only cutting the part and not the spacer or the hydraulic press table.

 

[DJ3100]

I forged the outside arm from 1/2 x 1 1/2. It still needs a little more clean up and will get welded to the shaft once I determine everything works. The round rod that the pedal will mount on is probably too long. It's removable.

At this point I'm not sure I have enough travel. I hope so because changing it will be a real pain. I still need a return spring, return bumper and maybe a stop to limit the travel.

The plan for tomorrow is to drill the hole in the floor, mount the body, and see if everything or anything works.

 

[DJ3100]

Why does building a car take so long?

I counted the parts in this assembly. There were 30 pieces that needed to be cut, welded, and/ or machined.

Problems arise even with simple parts -such as the 1/4" key stock. The keyseat cutter and the broach cut right at .250" The key stock measures
.253 in both directions. It just won't go together. I used to think I could sand the extra material off -now I just mill a couple thousands.

Of course, before you can cut, weld, or machine you have to figure out what, how much and where. These are the drawing (doodles) for this brake linkage project.

 

[truckster]

Beautiful work! As always! Thank you for giving me something else to think about/be interested in, and for the much needed distraction right now.

 

[DJ3100]

I'm back on the steering column. jfg455 got me thinking about what I really want and don't want. I really don't like the plastic column, the steering lock, the key in the colunm and the little lever you have to push to redeem your key. I do like self cancelling turn signals, but I can live without them.

I also decided I don't need/want tilt (they just don't look right roadsters), I just need to be able to adjust the column angle once the seat is in.

So, after I got the cab mounted, the hole in the floor, and got the brake pedal doing what it is supposed to do, I spent the rest of the morning tearing apart the column I got from Truckster. I think I can use the shaft and make a clean housing. The upper bearing ID is .750; the lower 1.00", so it will be easy to find some cheap bearings or bushings. The splines look the same as the '48 steering wheel. Photos this afternoon.

 

[DJ3100]

Here's some photos

The brake pedal came out in a good location. Looks like there will be plenty of room for the gas pedal. The large hole in the floor is so I can put it through from the inside. I have the felt gasket from the firetruck and I'll make a retainer so the floor will be mostly sealed up.

After spending about an hour basically scrapping out the '80 steering column and rounding up my other steering assets this is what I'm left with. I think I'll buy the column from Speedway for $100. There seems to be a limited amount of energy around here at the moment, so I think I'll invest it in another battle and buy my way out of this one.

So Cal has their open house tomorrow, I'm planning on picking up a throttle cable (probably Lokar) and looking at their swivel floor mount steering column plate. And maybe even take the day off!

 

[DJ3100]

No visual progress this weekend, but I went to SoCal yesterday and got the throttle cable. I set the tunnel ram on the engine for the first time and I can see that the gas pedal is going to be a challange. Plus I don't have a clue how big the Holleys are. I'll look for some numbers tomorrow.

I found some header extensions at the swap meet this am and got the header kit last week - another challange.

I ordered the steering column and an adjustable angle firewall column mount.
It's time to make up my mind that I like the steering box location. I keep thinking it's wierd but can't come up with a better location without finding a box with a different orietation.

I am considering moving the front axle forward about 2" which will eliminate the radiator shell to tie rod interferance.

 

[truckster]

That ram setup came off a boat. The guy I bought it from at Pomona told Doug and I they were 1150's (but with my hearing he could have been saying 750's and I wouldn't know the difference). I always figured I would have to trade them for something smaller.

If they are 1150's they won't work for driveability, that's for sure. Unless you want to run wide open throttle most of the time.

I don't remember there being a shell/tie rod interference issue, not if you run electric fans and deep six the water pump fan. Plus, I believe that water pump is the long one.

Thanks for keeping me entertained.
[P

 

[DJ3100]

I haven't had the radiator and shell in for a while, so i'll check it out again before I make the change. The shell was sitting on top of the tie rod. I can notch it and jam the radiator up tight to the pulleys, but I think it will be easier to create a little more room and what the heck, a couple more inches of wheel base will just accentuate how long it is.

I'm thinking that even if the Holleys are 750's -I still need smaller ones - 450's. I keep thinking I'm going to run into some magic here, but I haven't found it yet. Like maybe I could take the linkage out of the secondaries and block the fuel inlet and just run 2 2's.

 

[earthman]

Or there is the popular 4 barrel to two 2 barrel adaptors. You could have four 2 barrels with progressive linkage. Might be a first on a tunnel ram Dan

 

[DJ3100]

Or there is the popular 4 barrel to two 2 barrel adaptors. You could have four 2 barrels with progressive linkage. Might be a first on a tunnel ram Dan

That's an interesting idea, but I'm not sure I want afford 4 2 barrels either. Whatever, it will be quite a while before I even have an engine far enough along to try to make them run.

 

[DJ3100]

Looked up the carb numbers today. Holley 4224-6. Not sure what the -6 is but 4224 is a model 4160, 660 cfm, mechanical secondaries, no choke, with "competition fuel curve" - whatever that means. At any rate, I should be able to use them. Holley shows the power valve is "not required" - not sure what that means in the real world. Probably that it has idle and WOT with nothing in between.

Since it is a 4160 I think I can add a manual choke and change the metering block to get the power valve. Anyone have any insite?

 

[truckster]

That is good if they are 660cfm. They should work out. Hope it saves some $$$ for you.

I really think that the radiator and shell will work as it is. 99.9% sure, but that 0.1% is always the problem.