oldmule
Active member
Here is a tech article I wrote for a 4x4 board back in 2003..... I made a joke about it in the 1-wire alternator thread and got asked about it.
I don't have the wiring diagram pictures anymore, I lost a hard drive that had them on it.... I have seen guys that just use an electric motor w/ a belt to run an alternator for a home shop welder.....
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I'm building an alternator welder and decided to post the tech info I collected. This is a reverse polarity setup so you can weld on your own vehicle (this is what was said on POR).
OK, here is the tech part with stock numbers and locations.
Alternator: 100+ Amp, PNS (salvage) you pick the brand. Old Fords & Dodges have no Voltage regs, so they are less work. GM and new Ford needs the Volt regs taken out.
Electronics: http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=385&item=PM-128&type=store
Volt Meter: Very cool web page!PM-128
$11.95 ea.
You need to get a 1 mega ohm and 1 kili ohm resistor and solder them in series to a wire running from the + on the meter to a ground spot on the alternator. This brings the voltage down to the 200mV (milivolt) range. You don't need a fuse in line because the resistors will bake way before a tiny fuse would. The meter won't draw but a tiny fraction of an amp.
two - Small off/on switchs, 9Volt battery connector and battery. This powers the above meter. The other is to turn the power on to the alternator.
two - one ohm resistors soldered together in series.
15amp fuse holder and fuse, soldered to the resistors.
These go to the battery and switch for powering the alternator exciter input.
Welding related:
Connectors for the welding leads: Male & Female.
Harbor Freight #47949, $5.99 for 2-pack. On Line only.
H.F. Electrode holder, ~$12.00
H.F. Ground clamp, ~$12.00
Generic gang box w/ top. You get to cut holes to fit stuff.
Hand throttle: do whatever works, Lawnmower cable, bike gear lever ect.
How To:
Mount the alternator so it can have a belt thrown on when needed. Spring loaded seems to work. Or have it mounted to the engine, I used a serpentine belt setup with the two alternators on my engine.
Gang box. Mount the switches, 9V battery, and meter. You can mount the throttle to the side or somewhere else handy. It needs to be close so you can set the RPMs vs voltage needed. Find a good safe spot to mount the gang box. Run the wires out to the battery, alternator exciter clip, ground on the alternator and the + post on the alternator. You now have the means to turn the power on, monitor voltage and RPMs.
From the Alternator + post (would go to the battery if stock setup), attach about a 4 guage wire and put one of the female welding cable connects on it. Run a wire from a good ground spot on the alternator to the other female cable connect.
Get a good heavy set of jumper cables or just buy a bunch of welder leads. I'm using a 15' set of RV jumper cables w/ the ends modified.
When you turn on the power to the alternator it begins creating the charge you need to weld with, the amperage of the alternator determines the max metal thickness you can work on, the engine rpms sets the voltage. IE, 2500 rpms was about 110 V DC on my welder.
A side note here, you can add a 110V outlet/box to the setup somewhere and use it to run grinders, drills and incandescent lights.
Weld on dude.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Ok, so you made it this far... I'll try and find a backup of my old files and stick some pictures up here. I had them showing where to solder the resistors on the volt meter and stuff like that.....
asta
the Mule.
I don't have the wiring diagram pictures anymore, I lost a hard drive that had them on it.... I have seen guys that just use an electric motor w/ a belt to run an alternator for a home shop welder.....
+++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
I'm building an alternator welder and decided to post the tech info I collected. This is a reverse polarity setup so you can weld on your own vehicle (this is what was said on POR).
OK, here is the tech part with stock numbers and locations.
Alternator: 100+ Amp, PNS (salvage) you pick the brand. Old Fords & Dodges have no Voltage regs, so they are less work. GM and new Ford needs the Volt regs taken out.
Electronics: http://www.allelectronics.com/cgi-bin/category.cgi?category=385&item=PM-128&type=store
Volt Meter: Very cool web page!PM-128
$11.95 ea.
You need to get a 1 mega ohm and 1 kili ohm resistor and solder them in series to a wire running from the + on the meter to a ground spot on the alternator. This brings the voltage down to the 200mV (milivolt) range. You don't need a fuse in line because the resistors will bake way before a tiny fuse would. The meter won't draw but a tiny fraction of an amp.
two - Small off/on switchs, 9Volt battery connector and battery. This powers the above meter. The other is to turn the power on to the alternator.
two - one ohm resistors soldered together in series.
15amp fuse holder and fuse, soldered to the resistors.
These go to the battery and switch for powering the alternator exciter input.
Welding related:
Connectors for the welding leads: Male & Female.
Harbor Freight #47949, $5.99 for 2-pack. On Line only.
H.F. Electrode holder, ~$12.00
H.F. Ground clamp, ~$12.00
Generic gang box w/ top. You get to cut holes to fit stuff.
Hand throttle: do whatever works, Lawnmower cable, bike gear lever ect.
How To:
Mount the alternator so it can have a belt thrown on when needed. Spring loaded seems to work. Or have it mounted to the engine, I used a serpentine belt setup with the two alternators on my engine.
Gang box. Mount the switches, 9V battery, and meter. You can mount the throttle to the side or somewhere else handy. It needs to be close so you can set the RPMs vs voltage needed. Find a good safe spot to mount the gang box. Run the wires out to the battery, alternator exciter clip, ground on the alternator and the + post on the alternator. You now have the means to turn the power on, monitor voltage and RPMs.
From the Alternator + post (would go to the battery if stock setup), attach about a 4 guage wire and put one of the female welding cable connects on it. Run a wire from a good ground spot on the alternator to the other female cable connect.
Get a good heavy set of jumper cables or just buy a bunch of welder leads. I'm using a 15' set of RV jumper cables w/ the ends modified.
When you turn on the power to the alternator it begins creating the charge you need to weld with, the amperage of the alternator determines the max metal thickness you can work on, the engine rpms sets the voltage. IE, 2500 rpms was about 110 V DC on my welder.
A side note here, you can add a 110V outlet/box to the setup somewhere and use it to run grinders, drills and incandescent lights.
Weld on dude.
++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++++
Ok, so you made it this far... I'll try and find a backup of my old files and stick some pictures up here. I had them showing where to solder the resistors on the volt meter and stuff like that.....
asta
the Mule.
yea, I get it. I enjoy the diy too. The one I use belongs to a friend and is on his jeep, I am just the designated trail welder. I really like the blender idea the best.
