Anyone on here a painter by trade. I have a few questions if you have the time. Thanks TP
Lenny, I took a fender all the way to metal,dp90 it and waited 6 hrs and put a good wet coat of k-36 on it. I am going to do the whole car a panel at a time because thats the only way I can get it done. Once it's all done I'll guide coat the car,sand and seal. Does that sound right? Been awhile since I have painted anything. Thanks for the help. TP
This is whats confusing to me. The paint rep told me to put bondo on the metal that was sanded with a 36 grit paper to give it"bite". He said never put over the dp and I didn't need to scuff if painted within 8 hrs. Rep said you can get by with a skim coat of glaze but not to do bondo work. TP
I wonder when the last time the rep actually worked on a car was??? LOL
Ive been doing it this way for years, have great results and 25 years of painting experience behind me. I could toot my own horn saying trophy winners blah blah blah but you get my drift... I am known for my paintwork (as well as metal fab)
I guess you can choose which way you want to go then. Good luck and let us know how it turns out.
Your paint rep is an idiot, we always do our plastic work on top of the epoxy coat. If you read any ICAR related material, it will tell you to disturb the E coat as little as possible, for the best corrosion protection. You can get Ospho at any hardware store. It is basicly phosphoric acid, and turns iron oxide (rust) into iron phosphate scale. The directions say to leave it on overnight before painting, but even a wash over with a scotchbrite will work wonders. If I do a "quicky" wash, I usually wipe things off with thinner before priming. Hell man, we haven't worked plastic on bare metal since the 70s...
I have to agree with the last post, I don't think your paint rep has done much practical work in the last 20 years. I live on the coast, next to the ocean, so corrosion protection for me is most important. I also strip to bare metal and then epoxy, all bare metal with dp90 or dp40. It is an etch primer. And yes, with a light scuff, do your filler work overtop of it. When your body work is complete, I apply another coat of epoxy and then my high build primer over that. This provides an excellent foundation for starting your paint work. There are small etch spraybombs you can use for when you break through to bare metal when prepping your high build primer. Putting body filler overtop of bare metal sometimes creates a problem with sweating between the filler and the bare metal causing it to rust.
Jeff
Fatdog Rod & Custom
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