Body filler help

[Bowtiestang]

I have most of my chop welded up and need to fill the areas and seams....What is a good body filler that wont crack?I really dont want to use lead

 

[sneakysnake]

Im no body man but I think the trick to cracking is keep the filler as thin as possible.

 

[Bowtiestang]

I have it close but need some "reshaping". All I know is bondo brand like you get at Wal Mart is junk. I know there are some "metal" type fillers out there[S

 

[ratrodz]

one's called all-metal it works pretty good. most everybody in my area use's evercoat brand body filler. they have several types of body filler.i use lite-weight body filler made by evercoat.all-metal is made by usc. both are available on ebay. i fill seams and deeper spots with all-metal grind it down and finish with body filler

 

[blacksheep]

one's called all-metal it works pretty good. most everybody in my area use's evercoat brand body filler. they have several types of body filler.i use lite-weight body filler made by evercoat.all-metal is made by usc. both are available on ebay. i fill seams and deeper spots with all-metal grind it down and finish with body filler

You got it. All Metal first , then use a skim coat by Evercoat. It turns blue whne mixed and is very high quality.You can sand it with 1000 grit wet paper, and it blends very good.

 

[devils reject]

Evercoat Rage Gold is top of the line. just make sure you sand it in the "green" stage. It will make your life a lot easier

DEVILS REJECT

 

[stovebolt]

filler

i agree evercoat rage is excellent. thats all i use

 

[cornfield customs]

i am not a fan of all metal filler, over bare welds i use evercoat duraglass. it is fiber glass reinforced filler. then i use evercoat z grip to finish out. before you put anything down you need to get the metal clean. go over all the welds with a wire wheel on a grinder then was and grease to clean it. then you should be ready to lay some filler

 

[hotrod preacher]

i've used evercoat z-grip with good results...most fillers crack b/c of poor prep and over use of the filler...

like said before cleanliness is key, as is making sure it doesn't get wet, as in holes thru from the backside...any moisture-whether from rain or from compressor when sanding is bad.....
also use the right ratio of hardener--it really does matter!

 

[badchad]

body work

all metal best thang to use little hard too work with but very strong

 

[Cyanide Jello]

I 2nd any suggestion to the use of any Evercoat product... I use Rage and Chromelite personally... Then I used Dolphin glaze as my light filler puty...

 

[Old Dude]

Back in the day when I worked restoring older cars, I used all-metal or aluma-lead. I liked the aluma-lead better as it worked a little slower that all-metal. But, got to warn ya, that stuff gets so hot when it cures it will burn you. Use a cheese grater file to get the top skin off, then sand with 100 grit. Wrap the whole sheet of paper over a paint stick. You will throw away your DA and Air file after you master a paint stick. (Old school) Guaranteed you won't get sea sick when you look down the side of it. Next step is use a heavy fill brown primer. Again, use a paint stick wrapped with some wet/dry 220. Then lightly use Eagle Claw spot filler. Again, the paint stick with 400 to 500 grit. Then your final coat of regular primer. Keep in mind, this is for lacquer or acrylic enamel or epoxy paints. Personally I like black acrylic enamel with hardener. Nothing like looking down a side of a car with no sand scratches or waves. I do use a bondo for some small stuff, but never more than an 1/8 thick. Closer to 1/16. Heavy fill primer and wet sand. Note: Let all the stuff dry before you put last coat of primer to make sure all the shrinkage is done. Just some old school work that don't come back to you.

 

[kdubya]

Hijacking the thread. I have used the alumalead in the past. I was wondering if anyone knows how it would holdup if left exposed. Kinda leaning towards the bare metal finish on my build.

 

[Old Dude]

I really don't see where it would deteriorate any. After all, it's main content is aluminum. it should look like a lead patch over metal.

Here's food for thought. While living in Florida where there is dew every night, I used to do a lot of stripping cars down to bare metal. I had to because of so many coats of paint. I used a product called "Ospho". It's an acid and green in color. Make sure you wear rubber gloves. Don't confuse it with metal prep which is the same color. I had to strip a roof on a 57 Chevy because of some rust. I coated the bare metal roof with Ospho and it sat outside for over a week and it didn't rust. It looked like bare metal. Now normally, any bare metal left overnight outside in Florida will have a nice brown film covering it in the morning. Ospho will convert rust back into some sort of metal. It will turn the rust black. I swear by the stuff. I think it's made by Skylo or something like that.

 

[kdubya]

Thanks old dude i'll keep that in mind. Was actually thinking of washing it weekly with wd40 and a scothbrite.

 

[ratrodz]

spray it with semi-flat clear

 

[King Herald]

I use something called Upol Easy, which works incredibly better and easier than I ever expected. It sands really easily, and sticks like you would not believe. I use a metal paint scraper for applying it, and after it has gone hard I need a sharp chisel to get it off the scraper, as it won't come off even if I bend the scraper back and forth.

 

[BigIrish]

I really don't see where it would deteriorate any. After all, it's main content is aluminum. it should look like a lead patch over metal.

Sort of hijacking this thread here - but could you use this aluma-lead stuff to fill the holes in aluminum pop-rivets? The goal here would be to make them look more like old-school solid bucked rivets. I don't like the way pop rivets look, because of the hole in the middle of them. I would not be painting it, so the filler would need to look like metal.

Thanks

 

[Old Dude]

Well my friend, I think we have used up all the alternative suggestions. I believe all that's left is to do it the old fashioned way. Learn how to hammer weld and use a slap file and a good body file, along with some good hammers and dollys. That way you will get the look you want.

 

[The Spirit of 58]

I can't remember the name but my grandfather use to use a Metal Filler.(he doesn't remember it either)
You could try metaling lead as well