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PhilJohnson

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 29, 2009
Messages
148
Location
Central Wi
I did some welding today on my 53 Willys Aero [;) Since I am out of work I've been trying to do the metal work as cheaply as possible. So I've been using old computer cases and some angle steel I found in my fallen down barn. Since I like doing things the hard way (more like don't have any cash for Argon) I've been using up a bunch of welding rod that is laying around to weld up the car. Welding rusted up paper thin metal is tough with an Arc welder :eek:

The welding isn't pretty but it is solid. Some grinding should take care of the ugliness. This is my first attempt at welding sheetmetal with a stick welder.

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This car is definitely the rustiest thing I've tried fixing so far. It is a unibody, which is more of a challenge to fix over a car with a frame in my opinion.
 
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Some of the severe rust issues I am dealing with on this car. You can see that sturdy piece of wood that makes up the rocker panel in this picture.

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Severe rust on the rear frame rail. A piece of scrap steel was used to attach the rear spring mount. Since then the rest of the frame rail rotted away leaving nothing left for the scrap steel to be attached to.

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In this picture you can see what the crossmember originally bolted to. There is nothing there any more to bolt to.

Near as I can tell someone had attempted to fix this thing up sometime in the early 70s. The wood was attached to sheetmetal that had newspaper print on it which gave me a clue (sheet metal must been some sort of thing for the printer). There is loads of chicken wire and bondo all over this puppy. I took off a square foot worth of chicken wire and bondo behind the driver's side door. I am not saying I am the world's greatest body guy but even a pop riveted piece of sheet metal would have had more structure to it than the chicken wire/bondo combo. There is a good bit of wood nailed to the car holding it together :eek:
 
You are one brave person! Can't even imagine trying to patch something like that up without cutting everything back to solid metal and completely replacing everything that's rusted out with new metal. and to do it with stick welding?

Preparation, is 80% of welding, I would suggest grinding/sanding everything clean where you are welding, don't see evidence of that in the pics, but then I never figured out how to grind air.

I want to see how this turns out. Keep us posted.
 
You are one brave person! Can't even imagine trying to patch something like that up without cutting everything back to solid metal and completely replacing everything that's rusted out with new metal. and to do it with stick welding?

Preparation, is 80% of welding, I would suggest grinding/sanding everything clean where you are welding, don't see evidence of that in the pics, but then I never figured out how to grind air.

I want to see how this turns out. Keep us posted.

I grind right where I want to weld, it isn't very obvious since welding galvanized metal covers everything in a whitish powder. Since I work in the world's largest garage (a.k.a outside) I don't want to grind any more than I have to since it'll just start rusting again anyway :( When all the patch work is done I want to sandblast the underside and then paint it obviously :D The metal on this car is super thin. The computer cases are a bit thicker than the original metal even when it comes to the frame rails :eek: I only use heavy server cases for floor work. Most of the newer desktops use some pretty thin stuff which I won't use.

Hopefully as I start getting more and more into this project my welding will improve [;)
 
I realize you are on a tight budget, but that car looks like it would need a whole new full frame and floor built to be safe. If the outside body panels are in OK shape(don't know if they are) it would be easier to custom fab the frame ,floor, and any supporting structures than trying to fix all the rusty stuff. In the end you will be a lot more satisfied with it and it will be a lot strongerand safer.
 
Welding galvanized metal produces toxic fumes! Wear a respirator!!!!

Exactly what i was thinking.. can cause you to get pretty sick.. im not sure a respirator is even enough.. ?
 
I realize you are on a tight budget, but that car looks like it would need a whole new full frame and floor built to be safe. If the outside body panels are in OK shape(don't know if they are) it would be easier to custom fab the frame ,floor, and any supporting structures than trying to fix all the rusty stuff. In the end you will be a lot more satisfied with it and it will be a lot strongerand safer.

I am debating on going full frame since the car is so rusted underneath. I had an old S-10 which I thought about using but the rear frame kick up was nasty and I really want to have a rear seat. For me to get even to the point of sliding the body onto a new frame I first have to fix the non-existent rocker panels and the lower cowl area. I am afraid if I start hacking a way at what is left of the underbody the whole car will fold up :(

There is an upside down 53 Oldsmobile at my old boss's place. The body is hashed to pieces but I was thinking of seeing if the frame was salvageable. If so I might modify it to work under the Willys. I want to try finding a MII suspension setup for the front of that frame.

CORPRO and dmw56, yeah I know that welding galvanized steel can put off some nasty stuff. I've been welding outside and been careful not to put my head above the weld area while welding. Still a respirator would be a good idea [cl
 
man you got your work cut out for you. Body patches look like they should work, try and dry rods out in an outside oven. Rod and moisture dont mix. I would replace the cinder block with a wood block or cribbing. If you do get some nasties welding galv. and feel kinda puny drink milk. We used big fans and flux core wire. keep ludggin away at it.
 
Did some more welding. I haven't done much on the ole Willys. Too many other irons in the fire [S I decided to tackle the MIA rocker panel. I welded in a piece of bed frame for the inner rocker panel support. I then cut a long piece off of an old hay bailer cover for the sill plate. A piece of computer case was used to attach the door frame to the sill plate. The bailer cover was thicker than the original frame rails on the car :eek: Hopefully I can regain some motivation and finally finish this thing.

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