Bump steer kit questions?

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Mutt's37Buick

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 27, 2011
Messages
201
Location
Westminster, CO
I need to shorten the steering arm length on my '95 Roadmaster spindles.
1) Has anyone out there used this bump steer kit on a Mustang, and did it work well?
2) Is there a less expensive kit out there (found it for $265 on ebay)?
3) Does anyone know of such a kit for other cars?
Thanks
 

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  • Bump Steer Kit, Pro Motorsports, Mustang.jpg
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These kits are called bump steer kits because they lower the tie rod attach point 1 inch on Mustangs that have a lowered suspension.
The kit also shortens the effective steering arm by 1 inch which makes steering quicker and turn radius smaller.
Shortening the effective steering arm is what I'm after because I can then use a Cavalier r&p with 6" side to side throw.
Thanks
 
Cut and weld the steering arms you have. That's what building a car is, making stuff fit, not running out and buying a kit, to me anyway. Yeah, Yeah, a lot of guys start fidgeting around when you talk about welding steering components but if it's done right, there shouldn't be any problem.
I think the lower steering arms are the only part of my front that I haven't welded on. Axle and both tie rods were sectioned, and the steering arm on my pitman side was completely reworked and extended to get my geometry right. I have built a lot of pitman arms over the years to make the steering geometry right when installing power steering on older cars. I've never had one fail. I tack, measure, steer side to side, measure some more, usually cut, reposition, tack, all the process until I like it. Then take your time welding, keep the inter pass temperatures down. When you think you are done, grind/polish with a flap wheel and if you see any undercut, weld it up until you can polish the part and not tell it was ever welded. And don't even think of using a wire feed to do it, those welds are too brittle IMHO. It's the old lincoln pipeliner and 7018 for anything structural or safety related on all my fabbing. It's ok to tack with a wire feed though. I've even done them on an AC buzz box, you can get AC 7018 rod.
That kit looks like junk, I wouldn't put something like that on anything of mine.
 
Would it be possible of modify a r&p that has end tie rods with a bracket to make it act like a center take off r&p.
I have been told there are end take off r&p with 7" travel and this change would then allow me to line up my tie rod connection points with the lower control arm pivots.
Thanks
 

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  • Rack & Pinion conversion for center take off, Concept  ls1tech.jpg
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Where can i get some bump steer? Will the bump steer kit give you bump steer on other types of suspension too. I've been having problems getting bump steer no matter what i do my stuff comes out right [P
 
As problem is that my spindles are set up for a 7" throw side to side.
1) Making a conversion parts like the Mustang Bump steer would shorten the steer arm by 1" and allow me to use a Cavalier r&P with 6" throw.
Othe options I'm considering are:
2) Use the GM gearbox that came from the 95 Roadmaster and shorten the center link so that the tie rods connections are in line with lower control arm pivot. Advantages: Uses more of steer system I already have and cut and sleeve cross link simple modification. Disadvantage: End up with looser steering typical of '95 Roadmaster and future replacement of gearbox would be costly.
3) Take a 7" side to side R&P with end take off and convert it to center take off with a cross member like attached picture. Advantage: End up with tighter steering because or R&P and R&P replacement lower cost in future. Disavantage: Have not found anyone who has done this, but think would be possible.
What do you experts on car building think would be best path?
Thanks
 

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  • Rack & Pinion conversion for center take off, Concept  ls1tech.jpg
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Bump Steer is when your wheels steer themselves without input from the steering wheel. The undesirable steering is caused by bumps in the road interacting with improper length or angle of your suspension and steering linkages.
 
So, are you talking caster,camber and toe. Tie rod length,etc?

When you have suspension travel, most of the times some part of the suspension does not move in the same arc as other steering components.

If you have an Independent Front Suspension like a Mustang II and the basic geometry has been changed it is possible for the tow to change as one side of the suspension moves up and down. The tie rods connected to the rack no longer move in an arc that correlates with the steering arm arc.

On cars with a strait axle, it is a change in direction of both wheels because the drag link is not moving in correct relation to the axle movement or it's unwanted side to side movement of the axle that makes direction changes when you hit a bump.

Some of these bump steer correction kits relocate the tie rods so they swing in a better arc that produce less change especially on lowered cars
 

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