channeling body

[ORHotrod]

I'm close to setting body on the frame. I would like to channel it over the frame anyone have tip's on brackets. This is my first time trying this. It is a 30 Model A coupe I would like it channeled to the bottom of the frame.

 

[donsrods]

If the floor subframe is still intact, level the body up and square it, then tackweld in some bracing across it to help keep the shape when the floor comes out. It can be something as simple as angle iron like bed rails, but you want to crisscross it like bridges are built to really help it stay aligned.

Then cut out enough of the old floor and subframe to allow the body to slip over the frame. Block it up with anything you can like jackstands, lumber, concrete blocks, etc to the exact position you want on the frame. Level it up.

Now you have to build a new subframe and floor. The floor is mostly cosmetic and lends little to the overall strength, the subframe is the real important part. Build the subframe out of something like 1 x2 or 1 x 3 rectangular steel tubing, 1/8 wall thickness. Lay it out so that each piece goes across the body at some important spot, like the rear door jams, and tack weld them into place. Install enough of these to offer good support to the body, and put some diagonal pieces into the subframe to keep them from twisting. Model A coupes have a fair amount of steel in the bodies, as opposed to fordors that have mostly wood, so you will have steel to weld to.

You will have to build some kind of hump over the driveshaft and transmission area, and if you make a bunch of slices into the same tubing close together, it will allow you to bend it into a curved shape. Then you can weld up the cuts. Don't cut all the way through, just through 3 sides. The idea is to remove metal that will allow the tubing to be bent to close those cut gaps.

To bolt the body to the frame, drill right through the new subframe, but you will have to do something to keep the bolts from compressing the tubing as you tighten them. You can do this by either inserting a round piece of tubing into each hole and welding it in like a sleeve, or by sliding pieces of steel into the tubing before you weld it to the sides, so that you can rosette weld them inside to make the tubing solid in that spot.

Then you just start cutting and fitting something like 18 gauge sheet metal to make a new floor. Here are some pictures of my Son's '29 subframe and also the one in my '39 Dodge truck, to give you an idea of what I am talking about.

Don

 

[Bonehead]

Maybe not as pretty as what Don posted but the same basic idea. You can see where the back of the cab had to be cut out for the drive shaft. The whole floor was sheeted with aluminium after this, the risers are seat brackets. You can also see the front of the rear springs. The mounts are inside the cab I also built drive shaft hoops in mine. I also put in tabs for the 4 point harness to attach to the frame. The body is attached with new mounts. Keep in mind that my frame is actually a roll cage.

 

[ORHotrod]

Thank's guy's both reply's should help. The body doesn't have any floorpan's left so guess I won't have to do much cutting.

 

[sakustoms]

If the floor subframe is still intact, level the body up and square it, then tackweld in some bracing across it to help keep the shape when the floor comes out. It can be something as simple as angle iron like bed rails, but you want to crisscross it like bridges are built to really help it stay aligned.

Then cut out enough of the old floor and subframe to allow the body to slip over the frame. Block it up with anything you can like jackstands, lumber, concrete blocks, etc to the exact position you want on the frame. Level it up.

Now you have to build a new subframe and floor. The floor is mostly cosmetic and lends little to the overall strength, the subframe is the real important part. Build the subframe out of something like 1 x2 or 1 x 3 rectangular steel tubing, 1/8 wall thickness. Lay it out so that each piece goes across the body at some important spot, like the rear door jams, and tack weld them into place. Install enough of these to offer good support to the body, and put some diagonal pieces into the subframe to keep them from twisting. Model A coupes have a fair amount of steel in the bodies, as opposed to fordors that have mostly wood, so you will have steel to weld to.

You will have to build some kind of hump over the driveshaft and transmission area, and if you make a bunch of slices into the same tubing close together, it will allow you to bend it into a curved shape. Then you can weld up the cuts. Don't cut all the way through, just through 3 sides. The idea is to remove metal that will allow the tubing to be bent to close those cut gaps.

To bolt the body to the frame, drill right through the new subframe, but you will have to do something to keep the bolts from compressing the tubing as you tighten them. You can do this by either inserting a round piece of tubing into each hole and welding it in like a sleeve, or by sliding pieces of steel into the tubing before you weld it to the sides, so that you can rosette weld them inside to make the tubing solid in that spot.

Then you just start cutting and fitting something like 18 gauge sheet metal to make a new floor. Here are some pictures of my Son's '29 subframe and also the one in my '39 Dodge truck, to give you an idea of what I am talking about.

Don

Those are some nice rails Don. I especially like the footwell areas on the T with the angle pieces. Everything is super clean.

 

[opizio]

are there any books or something that get into depth on chopping and channeling. i think i understand it but i'd like to get more info before i try it out on my own.

 

[Bonehead]

There are several on chopping tops, and even one called "chop tops".

 

[donsrods]

Yep, Tex Smith put out one of the best ones, here is a picture of the copy we have. I just checked Ebay, and there are lots for sale ranging from $ 17.95 to $24.95.

Don