Crippled 41 Willys

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Mick41Willys

Well-known member
Joined
Jun 12, 2010
Messages
60
Location
Peachtree City, Ga.
Just got back from vacation, ready to get back to it. Cab is from AC auto in Buffalo. Welded up the front rails from Mac's Ratz. Getting ready to start the frame rails tomorrow. Rear end out of a 88 mustang. I got a triangulated 4-link from Welder Series. Hope you guys like it, I will.
Mick
 

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CR..They have a quality product at a good price. I searched several places before going with them. Others were either over priced or poor quality. This guy, Sonny is a hoot. If you call ask for him. I really wanted a steel cab but I don't have the time or energy to put in to it. I hope I can get this one rollin before I need a wheelchair. I told my wife I needed to build it to haul around my power chair. I don't need it yet but I will soon. I didn't want to use one of those lifts on the back of my Jeep hitch, so I figured I would build a wheel chair hauler. what better than a cool old rat truck with a crane lift in the bed....Mick
 
Mick, please post up lots of pictures as you go. Very interesting build and I love the Ford engine in there.:) What final look are you going for?

Don
 
Thanks Don, I got the motor from a friend who pulled it out of his Factory Five Cobra after he saw the motor I put in my 66 Mustang. He had the same guy build him a bored and stroked 351 with a 150 shot on it. He drag races on Fri. nights at Atlanta Motor Speedway 1/8 mile. I picked up the motor (without intake) and a T5 tranny for a grand. My motor guy talked me into FI. He sold me a BBK Single Stage Induction system, upper and lower intake for $200. Wanted a triple carb setup but couldn't pass up the FI. I'll end up with about a 132" wheelbase, 48" bed, no hood or fenders, tall whitewalls, can't sit too low, got to be able to get in and out, lake style headers. Just a cool ole truck to haul my chair around with. Started on the rails tonight.
 

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more pics

A couple of friends helped me get the back half on today. And it's all level
 

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Thanks, it's not always like that. Pics are post clean up. I can't walk so good so the guys keep the floor pretty neat for me. I'll take some pics before we clean up next time.
 
More Pics

The gang came over last night and we got the body fit to the frame. We had to do some trimming on the flanges. The guys have to help me up and down on the creeper, they are the best. Even though they threatened to roll me out of the driveway and down the alley, we got it done.
 

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4-link install and coil over mount question

Got the 4-link installed. I'm trying to get as much room for a gas tank as I can. I was going to use a tubular crossmember with tabs facing the rear like in the photo. would it be alright to rotate 90 deg. down and place the tabs on the bottom of the crossmember. Never seen it done, any thoughts. I also thought of using brackets for a t-bucket and angle them down. I could get some tabs made and come from the inside of the frame rail, the top of the coil over needs to be 2 1/2 in. inside the rail. If I use the tube and place tabs on the bottom I could use shorter coils. Check photos. I could use some ideas...Thx...Mick
 

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back to work

We got some more work done on the frame. It's about 90%, front suspension, wheels and tires next, I hope.
 

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A Hobart man I see, I drive a Ironman 210. I ran Millers in all my shops, and now that I'm retired the Hobart does everything I need and more. That new Ironman 230 is one tough mutha, I might have to put mine on C/L, and get the new one. Build is looking great, keep up the good work!!!
 
Thanks, it does everything I need. had it about 8 yrs. I bought it to weld up some patch pieces on my 47 Dodge truck doors. Used it on my 66 Mustang exhaust and sub frame. Now I've built a frame, no complaints.

A few more pics...
 

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It's looking good, and the frame is bulletproof. Hard to tell in the pictures, but are your rear bars level and in the same plane? The idea of these bars is that you should be able to remove your coil overs and lift the rear up and down and have it move freely with no bind and no change in pinion angle. Sort of like a parallelogram or whatever they call that thing. If they are not mounted that way the rear end won't travel up and down smoothly and wants to break free.

Just asking.

Don
 
Don, thanks for asking. Yup they are parallel and level. Still have to tweek the pinion angle a little. The picture isn't a good angle and I think maybe a little overkill on the frame but better safe than sorry. I like guys that know what they are talking about asking questions. Thats what makes this site so cool.
Mick
 

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