FlatBroke
Hostage Negotiator
WAIT,
If I do that, it won't be a bolt-in. Or am I missing something myself?
If I do that, it won't be a bolt-in. Or am I missing something myself?
"Dark Sarcasm"
- Thread starter FlatBroke
- Start date
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Bonehead
Skull Master
Am I the only one reading this one.......
I feel soo alone.....
Still here too, I catch up about every 5 posts or so. keep up the good work.
FlatBroke
Hostage Negotiator
Cool,
Thanks Bonehead.
Thanks Bonehead.
joehalford01
'Vette brake specialist!
why can't you weld it in, then cut? just curious.
FlatBroke
Hostage Negotiator
Mainly cause I don't have acces to a welder. Plus I'm trying to do this on a shoestring budget.....
I don't know...Might just be able to bolt in a second plate on the underside of the framerail to reenforce to one on the topside of the framerail???
Maybe...
I don't know...Might just be able to bolt in a second plate on the underside of the framerail to reenforce to one on the topside of the framerail???
Maybe...
FlatBroke
Hostage Negotiator
This thing will be installed VERY soon.
"Trust ME.."
What is that "Johnboy and Billy" are always saying, "Hey Y'all, watch this"
"Trust ME..
"What is that "Johnboy and Billy" are always saying, "Hey Y'all, watch this"
rust lover
Bleeds rust
your doing a real fine jobThis thing will be installed VERY soon.
"Trust ME..
What is that "Johnboy and Billy" are always saying, "Hey Y'all, watch this"
Gastrick
One of the Dirty Dozen!
This thing will be installed VERY soon.
"Trust ME..
What is that "Johnboy and Billy" are always saying, "Hey Y'all, watch this"
Are they in yet Flat? It's been since July the 2nd since you posted an update.
FlatBroke
Hostage Negotiator
Thanks Rust Lover...
No Gastrick, they are not in yet. I asked a professional for his advice and can't seen to get it. Guess dumb looks are worth money now....
I have decided to wait till I can (or Reason4) can post in-progress updated pics so I can really get live feedback from everyone here. With any luck, that will be the same day I cut the springs and flip the rearend. The bed re-install might be anothe thread too.
Sorry guys, sounds like I'm makin excuses....
No Gastrick, they are not in yet. I asked a professional for his advice and can't seen to get it. Guess dumb looks are worth money now....
I have decided to wait till I can (or Reason4) can post in-progress updated pics so I can really get live feedback from everyone here. With any luck, that will be the same day I cut the springs and flip the rearend. The bed re-install might be anothe thread too.
Sorry guys, sounds like I'm makin excuses....
Gastrick
One of the Dirty Dozen!
Flat, I'll admit I'm still a bit skeptical about the frame at the top, but I'm no expert and I tend to overkill. So don't put too much stock in what I say here. But I think at worst, if you have some frame flex, you could still make a piece for the top of the frame and get the strength back. The negative of course would be that you would get into the bed which you were trying to avoid. I wish you lived near me. I'd cut and weld what ever you needed to get you back on the road with the quickness.
joehalford01
'Vette brake specialist!
same here, i can't weld worth a damn but i'd let you use my welder if you lived over here. maybe you could have a weld shop weld the pieces on for you? bolt the pieces in, drive to the welder, have him weld everything up, drive her home, then do the notch.
as far as underdoing it, sure it seems like it might not be enough, but i've seen plenty of idiots around here just notch their frame with no reinforcement at all. they just cut some notches in it so there is room for the axel. i'm not saying you should do that, just that what your doing should be fine if their trucks are still holding together (who knows how long though)
as far as underdoing it, sure it seems like it might not be enough, but i've seen plenty of idiots around here just notch their frame with no reinforcement at all. they just cut some notches in it so there is room for the axel. i'm not saying you should do that, just that what your doing should be fine if their trucks are still holding together (who knows how long though
)
Bonehead
Skull Master
Okay Flat, I have been sitting back and watching this trying to figure out the whole plan. Lets talk angle iron here. Basic strength of angle iron comes from the fact that there are two webs or flat sections endways, one horizontal and one vertical. Picture this, if you have a piece of 1/8th X 1 inch strap, you can bend it on the flat, by hand, but not on edge. Now take a piece of 1 in X 1/8th angle and cut the web from the center. You can now bend it by hand. Just be sure you have flat steel running in two directions.
I know what you have there is 1/2 inch thick but imagine hitting a pot hole at 50 mph with your truck.
I know what you have there is 1/2 inch thick but imagine hitting a pot hole at 50 mph with your truck.
FlatBroke
Hostage Negotiator
Gastrick,
Where exactly is Pompono beach and how far is it from Montgomery? I might just take you up on that offer.
Joe,
I've heard of "Knuckleheads" doing a notch with out any restructure at all. I'm still not that much of an idiot.
Bone,
Every word of what you said make sence to me so the best thing I can do is take your advice and make it beefier.
(couple of questions first)
1- Are you wanting me to just re-enforce the "top portion" of the frame rail or are you suggesting that I re-enforce the whole "Notch kit" itself ?
2- I want this to be a complete bolt-in-kit.....One reason is because I have seen 1 toooo many welds break in my day at the races. Another is without that "Factored in" would it or would it not give more surface area for "Bite pressure" or "clamping force"
I will do this work with safety in mind. That is why it has not been done yet...
Honestly...
Where exactly is Pompono beach and how far is it from Montgomery? I might just take you up on that offer.
Joe,
I've heard of "Knuckleheads" doing a notch with out any restructure at all. I'm still not that much of an idiot.
Bone,
Every word of what you said make sence to me so the best thing I can do is take your advice and make it beefier.
(couple of questions first)
1- Are you wanting me to just re-enforce the "top portion" of the frame rail or are you suggesting that I re-enforce the whole "Notch kit" itself ?
2- I want this to be a complete bolt-in-kit.....One reason is because I have seen 1 toooo many welds break in my day at the races. Another is without that "Factored in" would it or would it not give more surface area for "Bite pressure" or "clamping force"
I will do this work with safety in mind. That is why it has not been done yet...
Honestly...
Gastrick
One of the Dirty Dozen!
Flat, excuse me for butting in but what Bonehead is saying is that you need at least some side support at the top of your notch. For example, not completely removing one entire side of the angle. To put that in perspective, if you just bolted a 1/2 inch thick piece of flat bar to the top of the frame rail, it would have the same strength as the angle pieces that you made because at the top of the notch, there is no side to the angle. Am I making any sense or do I need to start over. I'm not very good at explaining things.
Bonehead
Skull Master
It looks like the portion along the side of the frame is way strong. The area in the upper part of the notch running flat along the frame is not enough. Is it thin there so your bed fits back like stock? Gastrick is correct. leaving an inch or two of the original fram in the notch will help alot.
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joehalford01
'Vette brake specialist!
bolt it, have it welded, and leave the bolts in just in case the weld breaks. you don't have to pull the bolts out.
FlatBroke
Hostage Negotiator
Gastrick,
You are not butting in at all. I understand what you are saying.
Bonehead,
Yes, I was planning on this being done without having to cut the bed any at all.
Joe,
OK, I see what you are saying as well...
I appriciate everyones feedback, I will re-configure everything with all changes incorporated.
Thanks again guys.
You are not butting in at all. I understand what you are saying.
Bonehead,
Yes, I was planning on this being done without having to cut the bed any at all.
Joe,
OK, I see what you are saying as well...
I appriciate everyones feedback, I will re-configure everything with all changes incorporated.
Thanks again guys.
Bonehead
Skull Master
I've built a bunch of gooseneck hitches for trucks over the years. Before all these aftermarket hitch companys came to be, your local welder did all that work. I used to take a chunk of 6 in channel iron, and run it across the inside of the frame rails, from one side to the other. Sitting just inside the 6 inch channel was a piece of 5 inch channel. The base of ball hitch was just below the pickup bed. If you had something along those lines going between the rails it would help on the down force problem you are having with the frame. You could also run bracing from the high center point of the cross piece to the frame front and rear. Clear as mud right?
FlatBroke
Hostage Negotiator
Yeah Bone,
Clear as mud.....
All joking aside, I think I understand what you are saying.
Clear as mud.....
All joking aside, I think I understand what you are saying.
