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vintagered13

Well-known member
Joined
Oct 4, 2007
Messages
59
Location
Bellefonte, PA
Figured I would try over here with this question.

I'm building a 327 from a stripped down block. This will be my first engine build so all help is appreciated. Right now I have:
• Camel Back Cylinder Heads bare #3782461 dates F125 and F135
• 327 Block and Crank - Cylinders .30 over and Crank .20 Under
• 3" Ram Horn Exhaust Manifold
• 2101 Edelbrock Performer Manifold

Now I'm searching around for a good set of Connecting rods, and I came across some terms that you guys could help me with. The term: "Full float" rods as compared to "Semi float". If anyone can define what they are and which would make for a better build I would appreciate it.

Thanks again

V13
 
Semi floating rod wrist pins are pressed in to the piston/rod assembly. Full floaters have a looser tolerance and are pushed into position by hand. the full floating are retained in the piston with snap rings on the ends instead of having a press fit. The idea is a free moving assembly.
 
Full Float Semi Float

Figured I would try over here with this question.

I'm building a 327 from a stripped down block. This will be my first engine build so all help is appreciated. Right now I have:
• Camel Back Cylinder Heads bare #3782461 dates F125 and F135
• 327 Block and Crank - Cylinders .30 over and Crank .20 Under
• 3" Ram Horn Exhaust Manifold
• 2101 Edelbrock Performer Manifold

Now I'm searching around for a good set of Connecting rods, and I came across some terms that you guys could help me with. The term: "Full float" rods as compared to "Semi float". If anyone can define what they are and which would make for a better build I would appreciate it.

Thanks again

V13

Semi float simply refers to a standard press fit of the pin in the rod... the piston floats.... full float means the piston pin floats in both the rod and the piston and is held in my spiral locks or similar retainer.....
Camel back heads are good but late model vortec heads flow better than old hump backs..... of course they need matching intakes so if you got them use them..... ram horns are the better of the factory exhaust.... if that says much.... that is simply JMHO.....
 
Is it a small or large 327? if it's a large just buy some 6" rods.
 
It really depends on the pistons you are going to run!!!! If you run a full floating pin you have to run a piston that has a way to lock that pin in place or it will rub the cylinder wall, not a good thing. Stock type replacement pistons do not have a place for locks in the piston so you have to run pressed in pins. Is this a large journal or small journal crank and block?
 
This setup is a small journal crank and block. I saw a refurbished set on ebay the description is as follows: "Fully Reconditioned Set of 8 Small Block Chevy 5.7 GM Connecting Rods with MSA Performance 200,000psi Bolts. Rods have been Baked, Blasted, Checked for Straighten, both Cap and Rod cut for a good mating surfaces, NEW Performance Bolts installed, Honed to Size with Sunnen Equipment, and Side Dressed. MSA Aerospace Rod Bolts are 200,000psi 3/8" dia. with a 12pt. Rod Bolt Nut for Extra Clearance when used in a Stroker Application. These are not full float and are as is. They are used remanufactured GM connecting rods."
 
What is this motor for??

If you are building some all out street strip monster and want the least amount of rotating mass drag... opt for the full floating rods and pistons.... get a rotating assembly....they'll have all you need to build the lower end and the spiral locks you require for full floaters... i

If this is a street motor you might be throwing money away for that type of setup unless it's dirt cheap.... You can get a number of good after market rods from a lot of sources... Summit, Jegs, Flatlander racing or Eagle... if you need them....I could go on and on... they are relatively cheap... I'd be careful of buying remans from ebay only because you don't know who did them unless it's one of the above listed ebay stores....

The motor you have, is it complete? If so, why not have the rods recon'd by a eng shop near you with a good rep?.... get the block done, the heads freshened and do a decent engine rebuild with a good cam and intake, and holley or edelbrock 600 carb should make a decent motor for just about anything you put it in.....unless you're looking for 500hp or something really exotic..JMHO
 

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