Father and son '35 hotrod project

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Front end look great. How do you have the spindle connected to the axle? I see a thread and a nut at the bottom.

There isn't a picture of where the spindle attaches but it's just held on with the factory kingpins. Do you want any other pictures posted of something else?
 
just curious, are you at all concerned with the pulsed mig welds on the batwings? you obviosly are very good at what you do and i was wondering if you felt like they fused well. they do look good though.
 
just curious, are you at all concerned with the pulsed mig welds on the batwings? you obviosly are very good at what you do and i was wondering if you felt like they fused well. they do look good though.
It is a valid question. I have seen this can of worms opened on other sites.
My very own opinion, is that I use pulse welds on sheet metal. But I have seen other guys use them on heavier stuff without problem. When it comes to pulse welds, I think the only person who knows what kind of weld is put down is the guy who did it.
 
Wow, really cool project. Parent-child projects can be real rewarding. I'm usually just lurking but really like this build. I have a couple of questions on your frame. Are you using 2x4 tubing? Also what year front axle and what front spring are you using? You and your son have a great looking truck. My 2sons and I are in the planning stage right now and just gathering info and parts. Thanks for showing the build. ragtopfish
 
just curious, are you at all concerned with the pulsed mig welds on the batwings? you obviosly are very good at what you do and i was wondering if you felt like they fused well. they do look good though.

Good eye I did not notice that until you mentioned it. Obviously it its cnc's call, but personally I wouldn't weld like that on suspension components.
 
just curious, are you at all concerned with the pulsed mig welds on the batwings? you obviosly are very good at what you do and i was wondering if you felt like they fused well. they do look good though.

It is a valid question. I have seen this can of worms opened on other sites.
My very own opinion, is that I use pulse welds on sheet metal. But I have seen other guys use them on heavier stuff without problem. When it comes to pulse welds, I think the only person who knows what kind of weld is put down is the guy who did it.

Good eye I did not notice that until you mentioned it. Obviously it its cnc's call, but personally I wouldn't weld like that on suspension components.

Such questions.... Well, here's my take. I've had no welding classes so this is by the school of hard knocks. My son likes the look of pulsed welds when he's Mig'n, so I let him do it the way what he wants on "this" project. I trenched the seam first and the back side is Tig'd using Missile Weld Rod. Then we turned the Mig up and I let him pulse weld the side that shows. Again, I don't know the science behind it, but my thought is that it's still stronger than the 70 year old wishbone that it's connected to.
That's my think'n, but it wouldn't be the first time I was wrong.
 
What was the thought behind having a middle frame rail? I have never seen that done before.

3 reasons. First, I didn't want to see the side of the frame rail under the cab from the outside nor have it stick up in the cab, so I had to cut some height out of the frame rails which made them weaker, so it needed a little strengthening. It also tied into the front frame rails better that way, and to allow me to drop the seats below floor level. I'm 6'5" so I was real concerned with head room. The bottom of the seats are 1" below the top of the frame. I could have gone more but didn't need as much as I thought when I cut it down. As it is, I have about 5" over my head. And most importantly, it seemed like the easiest way to do what I needed done......
 
Thanks man, I'm not clear on my steering rod attachments with the new spindles. I am going to try and use stock configuration.

I think maybe your talking about the bolt-on Hairpin Rod brackets? Look in a Speedway catalog. They show it and all the different types of brackets you may want. I used their #91635000 and then split a stock wishbone and welded it on.
 
Wow, really cool project. Parent-child projects can be real rewarding. I'm usually just lurking but really like this build. I have a couple of questions on your frame. Are you using 2x4 tubing? Also what year front axle and what front spring are you using? You and your son have a great looking truck. My 2sons and I are in the planning stage right now and just gathering info and parts. Thanks for showing the build. ragtopfish

Thanks alot, we're having a great time. I'm sure you will too.
On ours, we used 1 1/2 x 4 tubing, 1/8". The OD matches the original size only 4 sided (boxed) so we can run wiring, fuel lines and brake lines through the inside. I chose 1/8" thick because our build is light and I wanted some flex to make up for the lack of suspension we have. If your using fenders or a bed with a bigger motor, I would suggest you step up to 3/16th. And before someone calls me on this, you have to "plate" the joints if you use 1/8". We have, but the plates are overlapping and/or hidden. A heavy build would need some also in certain areas even with 3/16th. That's my 2 cents, and that's exactly what it's worth....
The front end is all from Speedway. A '28-'34 Ford 5" drop axle with a Posies Super Slide Spring, 29" Reverse Eye for "Spring Behind" mounting. The Super Slide has teflon buttons in between the springs to make it slide better. Worth the extra money, I thought.
 
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Here's a picture of how we're running stuff into the frame rails.

P1010093.jpg
 
cnc

Thanks for the info. I see Posies have 2 springs, low and lower. I live about 45 minutes from them. Keep up the great work. Looking forward to more pics.
 
I was reading your post on tubing and I have 2 sticks of 2x4x1/8 and when you say a big motor do you mean a HEAVY motor or HP?

I really mean both. And throw in how your going to use it. Mine is light overall, light motor compared to a big V-8 and NO hp. With all that, I know I won't drive it hard. My suspension also sucks so I didn't want a really stiff frame to shove road bumps through my spine.....
 
Any updates on your project?
Not much progress to show. We've hit a wall so work has slowed down and we're going to miss our deadline..... It's called not enough hours in the day. Track season started so play time is limited. We did start plumbing the radiator but it's just sitting too low for water to flow right, so now we're gonna have to backtrack and mount it higher, which doesn't look as good. :confused: It's time to sit back and take a nap....maybe it'll make sense tomorrow.

4a5.jpg
 
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spark information

I found some info about sparks and colors for your earlier question.

http://tinyurl.com/ch7mzb

This from a machinist's handbook talks about spark shapes and mentions
that all ferrous metals (magnetic) will spark. But what about non-ferrous metals ? If they won't spark, maybe you could mix layers of ferrous and non-ferrous metals together to ignite the non-ferrous ?


http://www.fireworks.com/safety/chemistry-fireworks.asp
This page talks about the colors in fireworks, made by burning various chemicals.

I'm think'n if you could flatten together layers of high carbon steel with copper, a dragging skid plate would get blue and white sparks with lots of spurs. If you mix that with stainless steel or titanium, you'd get some longer trailing white sparks. I don't know how you'd get lithium or strontium for the red color.

Who knows... probably any of the above will catch the rear gas tank on fire and get you arrested on a saturday nite. ;-)
 

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