Front Panhard bar,

[Gacannon]

I completed my 28 Ford PU rod about 6 months ago. Not sure if you ever finish these things however.

I posted about shocks a few months ago. I have a traverse spring front and rear suspension just like the old Model A fords had. My front axle is a Speedway tubular with a speedway spring. Rear is a medium arch spring.

Both front and back have shocks. The shocks I installed originally provided a rough ride so I put a set of pete and jakes shocks on it. Just a weaker shock.

The result was much smoother ride, but man I lost handling capability big time. The body leaned significantly in turns and fast movement of the steering caused body shifting and therefore weight shifting. Before with the harder shocks, the thing drove like a race car in the turns and handled great.

My question to the forum is about front panhard bars. I saw a rod like mine the other day and he had a panhard bar on the front. He has pete and jakes shocks just like the ones I bought. I mentioned my handling problem with the pete and jakes and he said he would not have that problem because of the panhard bar.

Panhard keeps the frame centered with the spring. I understand that. Not sure if the spring shifts on its perchs or not with the pete and jakes.

Comments welcome on Panhard bar for the front . See photo

 

[donsrods]

I'll tell you what I see from the picture you posted, your front spring is WAY too narrow. That is why your front end is teetering on turns. I can guarantee you that if you move the perches out and use a properly wide front spring (like 31 inches) you will not need a panhard. Your car it very tall, and that just makes the problem even worse. (High center of gravity)

Don

 

[BigIrish]

Agreed, panhard is not going to affect the way a car leans. That's all to do with the springs.

Did you weld on the spring perches in that location, or did the axle come like that?

 

[genosslk]

I can't tell from your picture.... is your steering a cross steer or drag link parallel with the frame from the steering box near the cowl? If it is cross steer.... you need a panhard bar.

 

[zzrodder]

Don and BigIrish are on the right track, another reason a wider spring and therefore wider spaced mounts would help is that the hairpins would angle out more from the frame and increase the effect of triangulation, providing a more stable front end without needing a panhard bar.

 

[Jimmy Wallbanger]

spring is in the air

haha i think I have that same tbucket spring from speed way. like I tell my buddy don. if i wanted safe i`d build a mini van!

 

[rainman]

You could always run a swaybar in the back, where you could hide it!

But I would play with the shocks more, you could try coil helpers over the shocks in the back to see if you could stop some of the roll!!

Just a couple ideas to think about!!

BTW, I'm not absolutely sure I understand what you're asking!!
Are you having trouble with roll, or side to side movement? The reason I ask, is a panhard bar won't affect roll that much, it's for side movement!!

Suggestions I give above would help roll!!

 

[Jimmy Wallbanger]

i was thinking the same .

we put small motor cycles coilover with a transverse on my buddys but its just a roler right now

 

[Gacannon]

29" between the shackles

I measured the spring on the shackles as it sits. 29" center to center.

This is a Speedway tubular front end and the spring perch mounts were already welded and the spring came with it.

I can understand that a wider spring would impact the problem. I am kind of stuck with what I have as far as the spring is concerned.

Obviously, with the pete and jakes shocks, the frame is diving away from the direction of the turn. The shackles must be shifting for this to happen. One side going down and the other side up.

There is a very big difference in the shocks I originally installed and the Pete and Jakes. Moving the originals by hand is difficult. The pete and Jakes move easily in both directions. The originals have internal springs which will extend themselves after compression. Bore size is larger on the originals also.

I was trying to avoid the expensive adjustable shocks I see advertised with huge prices, but now I can see why they sell them.

The body is not chopped, but is channeled 4.5". The photo is misleading a bit. Its not real low, but you cannot crawl under it.

I appreciate the posts. I will probably just think about it more. The ride is not all that bad. Maybe I am asking for too much from a basic suspension.

I am sure adjustable shocks would be good to tune it in. A wider spring would probably be better still.

Will have to think on it before spending any money.

I wish they published more information on shocks as to actual wheel weight and performance. Laying out that kind of cash for adjustable shocks puts the hurt on the wallet. They just say large body and small body! I guess they are adjustable within a large range? I would be one ****ed off rodder if I spent that kind of money and did not get the performance I wanted, not to mention poorer to boot.

Gacannon

 

[bob w]

I know I'm late to the party but here's a few items to check.
Are the bolts holding the spring to the spring perch real tight? The arch of the spring makes them hard to get tight. If they are loose, that could cause the rocking.
Same for the rear spring perch. Did you use purchased spring perches with about 4" between the bolts (U-bolts)?
Your shackles are at a steeper angle than the recommended 45 degrees. If you have access to another spring, you might want to add a leaf that is a little shorter than the next-to-the-main leaf. I think that Speedway spring is a 4 leaf and it might not be quite enough for your car. The catalog shows a maximum of 2,500 lbs.
Again, the catalog shows your kit uses a 26" spring, measured with no load on it. Maybe they sent a 29" spring by accident.
My limited experience with adjustable shocks is I use them when Pete & Jakes are too stiff. Speedway has a racing catalog full of shocks that are calibrated. You can pick the stiffness you want, for a lot less money than adjustable shocks.
Good luck with getting your problem sloved.

 

[zzrodder]

The shocks you took off don't have an internal spring, they are nitrogen charged, that would also account for some of their ability to control sway. I don't know if they are still around, but you used to be able to buy a 'deadman' perch, or solid perch to replace the shackle on one end of the spring. Or you could make one and mount it with a plain perch bolt. They were used to control the side to side movement of the axle, mimicing the action of a Panhard bar. The drawback is that all of the springs change in length during compression must be absorbed by one shackle so it might bind against the perch. Bob W may be right about the spring being too soft, adding a leaf may be a big help, especially with the softer shocks.