Fuses for Accessories?

[tmontanez]

Hello All,

I am new to the wiring and electrical world, I have done all the wiring on my project. I just want to know where should i put inline fuses so I don't harm or short any wires.

my set so far is:

-Electric Fan w/ relay (fuse box IGN)
-Electric kickdown (fuse box IGN)
-Stereo (fuse box ACC)
-Electric choke (fuse box ACC)
-Amp (to BATT) with inline fuse

thanks

Tony

 

[sneakysnake]

Fuses are usually placed as close to the power source as possible that way it protects the wiring if it is over loaded

 

[21willys]

Just get you a cheap fuse box or steel one from another vehicle. IMO it's way easier to deal with and a cleaner look.

 

[donsrods]

Yep, use a fuse panel instead of individual in line fuses. Much cleaner, easier to trace when there is a problem, and everything is in one place. If you can't get one from a car go to a marine store. Cole Hersee and others make nice little fuse panels that take either the old glass fuses or the new ATO fuses.

It will make your life so much easier.

Don

 

[21willys]

I bought mine at a swap meet off of one of the guys who sells the cheap tools. It has 8 fuses and was only $6. He had others that had close to 20 fuses also.

 

[tmontanez]

thanks

ok so to add the extra fuse box:

-i need to add a relay to the new box then send relay power wire to the batt
-power the new fuse box with the key on spade from the original box
-attach all accessories to the new box and add fuses

if someone can give me a better description on how to do this i would appreciate it, thank you.

tony

 

[440Clark]

Tony if you truly only need to add the acc you mentioned, you could go ahead with the inline fuses. More likely though, your original box is in rough shape, and you will probably add more. I like this company called Waytek. Just search it. They have everything you need to wire anything and it's all good stuff. I'm with 21willys in regards to using boxes from donor vehicles, but that's because I'm usually redoing everything and I like upgrading to ATO fuses (the plastic, blade type).

 

[sgtpontiac]

I agree wtih them...

inline fuses require too much wire that could melt and take out other wires...and as said...more difficult to trace if you do have an issue...plus I've seen them get warm from a not so good connection and if you use glass fuse type they can lose spring tension holding the fuse and then you get intermittant operation of things....never been a big fan of in line fuses...but they do make the in line push blade type too...just not a fan of either......jmho

 

[tmontanez]

Ok, I'm gonna go with the block, I drew up this schematic for the new block, does this look right? I'm going to use a 30 am relay and a cole hersee block.

Thanks

 

[sgtpontiac]

Ok....you are going to use a 30amp relay to

Ok, I'm gonna go with the block, I drew up this schematic for the new block, does this look right? I'm going to use a 30 am relay and a cole hersee block.

Thanks

control all the power at the fuse panel?? Not sure I'd do it that way.....guess I don't understand what your accesory load is or what you are trying to accomplish....The drawing will work but why run everything off a relay? Why not power the fuse panel with a 30 -50 amp fuse or fusable link and then use relays for power drawing circuits like cooling fans and stuff like that....or you might not even need relays at all....wish I understood exactly what you were doing there....and is there two fuse panels??

 

[440Clark]

Can't you eliminate the original fuse box and power the new one up the same way the old one was powered up? Maybe just replacing the original wires with some new ones?

 

[tmontanez]

my accessories are: (they are all plugged into the stock fuse block spades)

-Electric Fan w/ relay
-Electric kickdown
-Stereo
-Electric choke

I want to add the additional fuse block to make sure i do not short any wires in the future.

 

[tmontanez]

the old fuse block is in good condition, i just do not want to risk the chance of my accessories causing a short

 

[donsrods]

No your wiring schematic is wrong. You do not put a relay before the fuse block. Put a maxi fuse of about 80-100 amps right at the battery, run a 10 ga wire from there to the fuse block. Now you have good power right at the fuse block and can start distributing it to the various places.

Use a separate relay for the electric fan, high beams, low beams, and electric fuel pump. Those relays will be controlled by a switch for each accessory.

I am not familiar with that electric kickdown, but you will not need a relay for your stereo or turn signals or electric choke.

You really need to buy a Rebel 9 + 3 wiring kit, it is going to save you a lot of headaches. From the questions you are asking it appears you have never done a complete wiring job and the kits make it so much easier. Spend the $ 130 or whatever they cost now and do it right.

Don

 

[tmontanez]

Ok don thanks, I have not fully wired a entire car I am using some stock harnesses on my build. Those rebel 9 +3 kits are sweet, definitely something I will look into and you can't beat that price.

 

[donsrods]

They have gone up a little since I bought mine, but it looks like Ron Pope on here, RPM, sells them cheaper than anyone at $ 169.95.

http://shop.eztbucket.com/Rebel-Wire-9-3-Circuit-Wiring-Harness-1102.htm

I work in the marine business and get wiring supplies at cost, and I can't put a wiring setup together this cheap. Plus, every wire is marked where it goes and the instructions are fantasticly easy. If you get stuck their phone support is top notch too.

Don

 

[von-zipper]

Also, Rebel Wire will give RRR members a 10% discount!

Zipper