how do I replicate this body line?

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Flatheadpopup

Member
Joined
May 28, 2008
Messages
9
Location
Colorado Springs, Colorado
I am planning to use this cowl and doors (29 chrysler?) to build a RPU type project and need to know how to replicate the style lines that are on the doors onto the quarter area. I think the rest of the construction should be pretty simple but I really want to have these body lines continue to the back of the cab. Any and all ideas appreciated. Hope these pictures are sized o.k. as its my first shot at posting images.

1750_1_b.jpg



1807_1.jpg
 
I have a Harbor Frieght bead roller and it probably will work. I don't know if it will make as "crisp" of line as a factory one would make or have the right radius you'd have to experiment. They are handy to have though.
 
I have been kinda worried about the radius thing myself. I wonder what other methods of metal bending are good options? Can a metal brake be used to form these kinds of bends or are they to close together? I can pretty much afford to either get a metal brake or the bead roller at this time so I need to get which ever one will take me further with this project. Thanks for all the help.
 
I've got one of those bead rollers and it doesn't have a die as big as the mid section line. They're just solid round steel with a threaded hole to hold them in place, so I imagine a machine shop or someone with a lathe could make some. I've been thinking of trying to make some on my lathe for some patchwork as well.

I also thought about just hammering out some patches on a piece of pipe, just clamp it on and form it.

Sean
 
Yes, Its called hammer forming. You can make a reverse mold of the body line in a piece of hardwood place the sheet metal over it, attach it securely and hammer the shape into the sheet metal. Search the internet or look for some books on metal working.
 
You'll be surprised what you can hammer out, just go buy a couple of autobody hammers for about $4 each and start experimenting. I use the flat faced one and the round one the most, the pick is handy too. Try some scrap and a little patience and stay clear of the thick stuff. I was just playing around and ended up hammering out a mastercylinder cover from some 16g sheet. I really had to smash that thing into shape, could barely hold the hammer after a while. I left it with a rough finish so ya could tell I formed it. 20g bends like tin foil.

Sean
 

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Bead rollers are nice to have, but I would think that for a long, even body character line like this, it could be easily formed with a hand sheet metal brake. By doing a series of very small bends, close together, you can actually create the radius. When you get to where it sort of flattens out, make the bends smaller and farther apart. Also , if you're gonna be doing a lot of this, a supply of new, clean sheet steel is nice to have. Here is what I found out from Ron Covel about what sheet metal to use for body panels, and it especially applies to hand formed panels. He recommended "drawing steel", in 18g or 19g.

"The Drawing Quality steel is definitely softer than regular cold-rolled 1018
or 1020 steel, and is particularly well-suited for work that is done by
hand, such as mallet and bag forming. If you are forming with an English
wheel, power hammer, or planishing hammer, I don't think you'll see
much benefit, since these machines have plenty of power to easily move regular
cold-rolled steel sheet."

And I have formed panels like this using a hardwood backer like suggested, the drawing steel does make it easier...also, I found that using the correct tool-a ball peen hammer won't cut it-makes a huge difference, you do need to use body hammers!

Just my 10 cents worth-I also have a list of sources for body sheet steel Ron sent me if anybody's looking for some-good luck!
 
Thanks for all the ideas everybody. I think I am going to start off with a sheet metal brake and see what I can come up with. The brake would be extra nice since I will need to make my own bed sides most likely. Oh, and as an update...after seeing an identical cowl on Kill Billet and doing some research I am almost 100% sure that what I have is an Erskine (Studebaker) rather then Chrysler product.
 
When I built my rstr p/u body, I used a third door for the quarters and a flat panel with beads rolled into it. It's another option but maybe not a good one since you have an Erskine cowl.

Ron
 
I like your way of thinking Youngster. I was actually out checking around a little yesterday but still haven't found exactly what I am looking for. Anyone know of a vehicle with similar body lines that I might be able to scavenge parts from (maybe a model A)?
 
I'm with DMW on this. Spent a short time on the lathe making some application specific dies then you can bead roll that exact line all day long including over the radius or however you decide to roll them.
 

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