I-beam welded radius brackets?

[txrat1940]

Got a standard Chevy truck I-Beam(1940-46) with a parrallel leaf spring set up under the I-beam , with traditonal side steering, anyhow i heard that with this style or type of setup radius rods are not needed? but if i could run them(raduis rods) can the brackets be welded to my i-beam since there are no perch holes or batwings? or is just better to just buy an i-beam or tube axle with radius brackets on them? THANX FOR ANY INFO,plus if you got any pics of what i first described(welded radius rod brackets to i-beam)thanx

 

[Bonehead]

Are you changing out the springs? Some other type of suspension? With those springs there is no point in radius rods, etc.
(Seems a bolt on bracket would work fine for you, but maybe I am not following.)

 

[Unkl Ian]

You don't need radius rods with parallel leafs.
That's why the factory didn't use them.


Radius rods, or 4 bars, work with transverse leafs, coil overs, etc.

 

[txrat1940]

not changing out the springs, what kind of bolt on bracket? seen one on ebay but you have to reverse the steering arms and tie rods?

 

[Bonehead]

So the arms are just for looks? They will stiffen your suspension. And you would have to fabricate the brackets.

 

[Willowbilly3]

not changing out the springs, what kind of bolt on bracket? seen one on ebay but you have to reverse the steering arms and tie rods?

What's the point? Why do it if you are keeping the parallel leafs? Anyway, the brackets would bolt on INSTEAD of the leafs for using that style of axle with a buggy spring and radius arms.

 

[EnglishBob]

I think you need to clarify what your trying to achieve.
I have paralell springs on the front of my 46 dodge..they look good,work good and don't need any 'improvements'
Bob

 

[35Mastr]

A-With the axle that you have,If you are going to leave as it was made.You cannot use Radius Rods.

B-Now if you want to go with a Model A style axle and scrap what you have.Then and only then can you use the Radius Rods.

But if go go with B you will have to start from scratch.You will need Axle,Spring,Spring Shackles,Spindles,Bearings,Hubs,Drums or Rotors,Radius Rods,Radius Rod Mounts,Drag Link,Steering link from steering box.


It is a whole nother animal to change it.It can be done.But it will take some work and enginuity.(SP)

Hope this paints a clearter picture.

 

[Willowbilly3]

Actually I have seen brackets made to bolt on where the leaf springs were.
I used an econoline axle with a set of speedway's rear weld on hangers for the springs and made my own wishbone brackets. I just cut off the spring pads and cleaned up the axle.

 

[PA41]

If you are going to a design where you need batwings, they weld quite well to forged axles. This is one of those deals wher ya gotta like the 'journey', as its a lot of work and study, and it might be about the same price to just buy the thing.

Heres one I did to and Econoline forged axle. (be sure its a forged axle, NOT cast). I used Low hydrogen rod because I was welding dis-similar metals - forged and 3/8" plate. I cut the batwings so they were captured on the axle I beam, positioned them on the axle, and tacked them on. I heated the axle black hot with a rosebud and stickwelded it in at 130+ amps. Stick the rod IN the puddle- go slow-works great. Practise on some scrap--maybe the pieces of the axle pad you cut off.

Research low hydrogen rods, clean the iron good, use lotsa heat, go slow. Its really satisfying work. Stick welding has something on wire welding. Makes ya feel like youre an old blacksmith or something.

Also I like to paint crucial welds white--you can see any cracks if it gives up..



PA41

 

[Unkl Ian]

not changing out the springs, what kind of bolt on bracket? seen one on ebay but you have to reverse the steering arms and tie rods?

Did you read my last post ?

 

[psychomike]

got binding?

It may have been inferred in a previous post, but the main reason I would not run both leaf and wishbone is tht unless you designed them exactly right you would have the axle swinging thru two different arcs - which cant happen geometrically speaking.
You would have to make sure that the pivot point on the wishbone was exactly the same as the pivot point on the leaf, that the shackle was in front, and even then it would not work as the leaf changes length as the suspension compresses.
The wishbone would have to have a floating anchor on (probably) the axle end which would defeat the purpose except from an aesthetics point of view.

 

[willmceliece]

^^ exactly what mike said, plus, as the axle moves up with parallel leaves, it will also move back(assuming the shackle is in the back). fixed hairpins or radious rods will cause a pretty good bind and you will effectively have little or no suspension travel. its like the the ladder bars guys put on lifted trucks or faster trucks, they are designed not to bind but end up often installed wrong. i have fixed many. i would do what others suggest and do what i did on my chevy truck. go model a style with transverse, or keep your parallel leaf. good luck man, show us what your working with.

 

[txrat1940]

thanx for all the great info guys and the pics as well, it really helped alot

 

[goose-em]

I am using the original axle on my 38 GMC running a buggy spring with radius rods and have not welded anything to my axle.

As an engineer I have thought about welding to the axle many, many times and decided that although it is possible it may not be truly safe. I reason, as an engineer, that any weld transverse to the direction of any beam, tube, axle etc. is detrimental to the original part.

A weld longitudinal to the part is typically okay. You will notice that buildings, machines etc. do not have welds transverse to the long axis, by transverse I mean across.

So how did I do it? For my current design, I spent a little time fabricating a bracket that bolts on in place of the original leaf spring set up. To do this and run radius arms I had to make the bracket long to the outside of the axle so that the radius rods would angle outward. I then welded/fabricated another bracket that welded onto the bolt on bracket to which, the radius arms were welded.

It does not look as clean as a welded on bracket or a new axle because of the bolts but as part of my design I wanted to run as much of the original vehicle as practical. Of course the bolts could be cleaned up using a fabricated cover that would be keeping to the theme of the vehicle, say a skull, spade, whatever.

I may not stay with this design but it will work and be plenty strong without worrying about the end of my axle breaking off under load as I like to drive my cars everywhere and for long distances.

I will take a few close ups of this set up and try to post them soon. Of course with my track record of pic posting it may be awhile. I would rather work on my truck than sit at the computer. lol

 

[Lahr]

Rat Rod Axle Brackets

So the arms are just for looks? They will stiffen your suspension. And you would have to fabricate the brackets.

I make brackets to bolt on 1939 to 1946 chevy I-beam axles and also 1948 to 1956 ford to run radius rods. They are on E-BAY. Have Pics.