International L122 B Binder Rat Build

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yeah I got 1/2 running from the tank to all 4 corners.. I figured.. easier to reduce than to make it faster.. I do have 1/4" line running into the cab for the gauges.. one from the tank and one from each valve assem

I got line running everywhere.. lol

I was thinking about getting these, then I can adjust to whatever i like.. (attached photo)

Sorry to hi jack your thread JM

Your not hijacking. I enjoy hearing input.
That adapter like pretty trick. I think it would work perfect.

Hopefully I'll only have 5 lines. One from tank to valve box, and one to each wheel. We'll see how that works.
Might be too slow and if so, I'll add a second 3/8" line from tank to the valves.
 
Bags were delivered.
I went with RE7's for the rear and RE6's up front.
I'm going to see if the 7's will fit up front and if they do, I'll upsize the front to the larger bag too to aid in supporting the weight of the diesel.
These are bigger then I expected.



 
Always a good day when parts come. The most fun I've had with my build has been getting the air system installed and functioning. Air up, air down. Up then down. Then up again. Borderline ridiculousness but I enjoyed it lol.
Looks like you have a few things to install now. That truck is looking good.keep it up.
 
I bought half a billion fittings from a "large" air suspension online store.
The tanks and compressors from eBay
The bags from the same "large" air suspension online store last Thursday.
And the expensive air solenoid box directly from the manufacturer.
I figured it would all arrive near the end of this week so I could go to town this weekend.
However, all that's arrived are the bags, tank and compressor. Called the other two places to see what was going on. The fitting place........ran out of fittings. Land the air solenoid place........ran out of one of the main components to their system.
Really?! I specifically went to these places in order to assure they DID have the parts and would ship quickly.
So now I'm in a holding pattern till the suppliers get their poop in a group.
:mad:

I'm news REALLY hoping to have some up-down-up-down fun this weekend.
Grrrrrr.
 
That's a bummer when that happens. You order, you pay and then you wait only for them to tell you that you have to wait some more.
I'd like to see what you plan on doing with that exhaust. I started my engine yesterday and your idea of running the exhaust under the cab ain't so crazy anymore. Loud and hazy. Of course I ran the thing till my eyes hurt and I was deaf. :D
 
Finally got all the suspension fittings and parts.
BUT.........decided it's time to pack up shop here.....and move to another house......again.
Was kind of spur of the moment, and stumbled across a house we like.
Larger house, cheaper mortgage, cheaper insurance, and 3.5 more acres then we have now.
So my house is on the market, and have to keep project in limbo for fear someone wants to view the house.
Ugh. PITA.
It seems I'm a glutton for not getting this darn thing done!

Good news it with the equity from this house, I'll be able to build a proper shop so the lady can park in a garage for the first time in her life.
I suspect once she does it once, I'll never get it back :)
Better get the shop built fast.
 
Finally got all the suspension fittings and parts.
BUT.........decided it's time to pack up shop here.....and move to another house......again.
Was kind of spur of the moment, and stumbled across a house we like.
Larger house, cheaper mortgage, cheaper insurance, and 3.5 more acres then we have now.
So my house is on the market, and have to keep project in limbo for fear someone wants to view the house.
Ugh. PITA.
It seems I'm a glutton for not getting this darn thing done!

Good news it with the equity from this house, I'll be able to build a proper shop so the lady can park in a garage for the first time in her life.
I suspect once she does it once, I'll never get it back :)
Better get the shop built fast.

Good news for you and and your family. Bad news for us.
I was hoping you were posting to show the up down up down. Oh well.
Good luck with the sale of your house.
 
Figured I might as well squeeze in as much work as I can while I wait impatiently for my house to go under contract.
Rear springs installed tonight.

(Almost) fully compressed.
4.5" spring height.
I had moved the rear axle forward 1" in order to center the wheels in the rear fenders. I did this AFTER I did the frame c-notch.
Whoops.
So, frame c-notch is out of alignment with axle tubes, and the rear end nose is hitting the rear crossmember.
Double whoops.
I won't correct either of these just yet. I want to see how the bed fits with the new wheel/tire combo. I know I need to widen the bed another 1.5" due to the tires, and initial figment showed I needed to raise the rear fenders due to the new tire height. Not sure I want to do that. The lines are perfect as they are, and I don't want to loose that.


Ride height.
7" spring height.



Full extension of spring.
11" spring height.



These three points will be points of reference for the Accuair ECU.
Settings in the accuair are as follows
0-Fully aired out
1-10% of suspension travel (for slow cruising, to look ultra cool, and to quickly wear the insides of the front tires due to excessive negative camber in on the IFS, which is another way to look ultra cool)
2- 50% of suspension travel (Normal ride height). Which reminds me to verify pinion angle at this height.
3- 90% or suspension travel (for maneuvering speed bumps and curbs. Also completely rattle your fillings out of your head from the excessive pressures in the bag to raise to this height. Read-rock hard springs)

Accuair will automatically raise to setting #2 at ignition on unless I set it otherwise.
 
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Got the final front springs permanently mounted. The ones in there were craigslist buys, and quite frankly, I didn't trust them as a major suspension component since I didn't know their history. On top of that, I could have swore I remember seeing a nick on one of them when I bought them, but now I can't find it. Never the less, new springs.
I plumbed the fronts together, and rears together for now, till I get time to mount the compressors and valves. This is the first time I've actually been able to fully set the truck at ride height with the proper springs.

0-frame laid out


1- 10% of suspension travel. This leaves me with about 2" clearance under the frame to the road. Truck won't spend too much time in this position.


2- 50% suspension travel. This is ride height. It's actually a little disappointing. I've spent so much time seeing the truck laid out, that it's my favorite look. Obviously, can't drive like that, so this is the compromise, I suppose. It will look better once the bed is in though and the rear fenders hide some tire.


3- Fully extended. This position is rather surprising to me. At this height. I have a full 8.25" clearance under the frame. Looks goofy as heck, but very practical should I decide to off-road :)


Also shot a quick video from laid out to ride height. The rear bags take next to nothing to air up to ride height since there is so little weight back there. They shoot up to ride height fast, and take forever to air out.
With fuel in the tank, and the bed on, that should, help. I think I will also mount the battery, both compressors and valves as far back as I can to assist in balancing weight of the truck.
Click for video
 
Since the rear springs are in, and final wheels and tires were on, time to fit the bed…….again.
I had it perfectly set where I wanted it with the original wheels and tires, and only needed minimal work on the wheel wells inside the bed to make it work. These tires are much taller, and believe it or not, slightly wider. It was a chore to put the bed on with these as they rubbed the fender lip. Getting the bed off was far worse as the fender lip caught the aggressive lugs on the side wall, preventing "lift off".
I knew I was going to at least have to widen the bed a bit, so tonight I cut it apart and added 1" to each side and set the bed back on. With the truck aired out, I found that I will also need to raise the fenders 2" as well. This is because the outside corner of the tires hit the inside of the fenders which prevents fully dropping.
Ugh.
I don't want to widen the bed anymore, as I don't want the square front bulkhead of the bed to pass the rounded rear cab corner.
I love the extra room in the bed it provides, but proportions are starting to get out of whack a little.
So, I will section the entire bed side 2" and raise the bed. The side of the bed has an awesome bead roll that encompasses the outline of the fenders and bed rails, and I want to keep those intact.
On with the pictures.

Fender os off on this side. You can see how far up the fender will need to go to clear the tires. I don't want the tires contacting the fenders at all as I plan to haul some weight with the truck (motorcycles) and I don't want the weight resting on fenders.


Here you can see how much room the bed will have. While only 15" deep, and 5'10" long, it's 5' wide. Makes the frame appear insufficient.


Here's the fenders fully aired out. While I would prefer this look at ride height, it's not possible. And I doubt I'd be able to get the tires off without removing the fenders or the bed. Out of the question.


Just another view. Fender is held with 2 clamps at the top, so the bottom at the front is kicked out. This will pull in.


This is the bead roll line I want to keep. Tire is about 1 1/2" up. Trying to keep 1/2" clearance for unlevel ground when parking.


View from the front.
I actually like the wide rear end. Makes it almost appear as though it's a dually (I have a soft spot for those).


This is the area the 4" exhaust will exit from under the cab. More than enough room to place where needed.


I'm thinking of dumping the exhaust out the rear fender where the circle is.
Since I have aluminum wheels, I think it's safe to use aluminum elsewhere on the truck, so I think I'll make a ring with aircraft rivets around it to clean up the hole, but this is the first idea. As we all can tell, ideas change progressively as I go along.


Since the truck is so small, I feel, for safety sake, I should add some adequate beep-beeps.


I want the bed to be 100% useable, so a requirement is to keep everything out of it. No gas tank, no exhaust stack, no frilly pointless typical rat rod crap, so these giant horns need hidden.
This is literally the only spot to put them. When I build the bed floor framing, I'll build a mount for them under there. They will barely squeeze past the trailing arms and drive shaft. This location will also keep them dry. I'm not worried about them pointing backwards, these have enough oomph to alert anyone around, no matter their location.
 
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Thinking the only pointless rat rod frilly thing the bed will get is an antique doorbell button with vintage script saying "ring bell for service". Might make for some good laughs at the local shows.



Or maybe no sign, just the botton on top of he bed rail.
 
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Looking real good.[cl
It's amazing how sometimes things will change from the final mock up to the final weld.
[P [P [P
Torchie

Like Torchie said it's amazing how you change one thing and like a chain reaction it changes stuff down the line. It's looking real good, love hoe the lines a coming together.
 
The bed is looking badass.
This may be a silly question but what happens if you were to take the wheel spacers off? Does it mess up the stance? I can't tell from the pictures how your front and rear tires line up but I'm gathering you like the rear tires wider than the fronts for the dual look.
Have you considered using the original wheels and tires?
Now that I see the rear fenders it makes me think how wicked your truck would look with the front fenders as well. Low,wide and mean. Just my imagineering Kicking in, not at all trying to reinvent your wheel.
 
The bed is looking badass.
This may be a silly question but what happens if you were to take the wheel spacers off? Does it mess up the stance? I can't tell from the pictures how your front and rear tires line up but I'm gathering you like the rear tires wider than the fronts for the dual look.
Have you considered using the original wheels and tires?
Now that I see the rear fenders it makes me think how wicked your truck would look with the front fenders as well. Low,wide and mean. Just my imagineering Kicking in, not at all trying to reinvent your wheel.

I didn't even think about removing the spacers. [S
That would tighten things up a bit.
I actually thought about putting the front end back together. I think the truck would look sweet full fendered! Problem is I sold the front grill to a chap in Canada for his build with his son.
Ever since I saw his truck, I wanted the grill back :rolleyes:
He even copied the split windshield! His tuck is AWESOME!






Oh! I know why I can remove the spacers. They are not just spacers but adapters too. The original wheels were a strange bolt pattern so I had used these to get a more useable bolt pattern for more options for wheels.



..................... I might have to look for a grill online. Full fendered sure would make the intercooler and radiator much easier to squeeze in. Only issue is the placement of the wheels. Now that the cab is set back, the wheels are in the wrong spot, and would require extensive sheet metal work to stretch all that out. Not like I haven't done any sheet,teal work on this thing this far :rolleyes:
 
You have any measurements for the "Chap from Canada" s truck? Judging by his pics and yours (and the 5" chop measurement you gave me before) I'm wanting to chop mine 4" and have the bed really close to the length of the two of you. Mine will be full fendered also....if the brittle metal can handle the welds lol
 
You have any measurements for the "Chap from Canada" s truck? Judging by his pics and yours (and the 5" chop measurement you gave me before) I'm wanting to chop mine 4" and have the bed really close to the length of the two of you. Mine will be full fendered also....if the brittle metal can handle the welds lol

What measurement are you looking for? His chop number?
I can dig through my correspondence with him and ask what his ended up being.
Think he did a 5" front 4" rear, but need to verify.
 
Just the chop and length of the bed. You've told me before that yours was 5" and his appears to be about that. I want to chop mine less than that. Probably 4" maybe only 3 1/2"......I'm tall so I need as much head room as I can get but I want it to look good and also proportionate. Also would like to know what the length of both beds are, because they both look really close to the same length. I may end up sectioning mine and that will in turn make the top look taller even with it chopped, so I try and get pics and info when I can because there's not nearly as many custom Binders out there as 50's ford and Chevys. So I've gotta find a happy medium for all the mods I do while keeping it unique....which is why I try to get measurements so there's less guess work later.
 

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