Leaf Springs on an A frame ?

[Justed]

The scene: I have a 26 T coupe I have all the parts for the front (dropped axle, Disc Brakes, ETC) The frame is a Model A that I stretched for my engine which is a punched out 292 4.8 inline. It has an 8.8 limitred slip with drum brakes and a ladder bar set up.

The dilema I ran out of money! Does anybody ever consider using leaf springs? I will be boxing the frame soon and didn't know if I could nickel and dime it from here on out? I am sure I could get leafs from the local yard because they only have newer cars.

 

[Torchie]

Lots of people have used parallel leaf springs on model A frames. In fact for years the rear buggy style spring was the first thing to go. As was the torque tube driveshaft and banjo rear end.
As long as you can place the rear end where it needs to be you will be fine.

 

[bob w]

A couple problems. There's no frame behind the stock Model A spring. You'll have to extend the frame to the rear of the body. Late model rear leaf springs tend to be very long, especially from the rear axle rearward.
There's a few different ways to do a low cost rear suspension. Just start reviewing a lot of the builds on this site.

 

[2.3Turbo_T]

Here's a dirt cheap alternative with a much better ride. This is under my '27 roadster. 8" rear outta a Maverick (swapmeet item). The rest was purchased at Pick-N-Pull. Coilovers from an '88 Subaru wagon ($9 each), trailing arms from a '99 Land Rover Discovery ($33 pair) and a trailing arm from a '01 Kia Sportage ($18) shortened and made into a panhard bar. Cheap, yet functional.



This was my junkyard haul that day.......................

 

[Justed]

Thanks for all the info. I was looking at the frame and there are a couple options and I will even look at the yard for some short coil-overs instead of the leafs. I already stretched the frame for the engine and am reversing the firewall so right now I will keep my eyes open. I went through a few builds and will continue looking on here.