Model A questions

[CrashTestDummy]

Okay folks, I have a few questions...

1) I've read that second-generation ('95-'01) Ford Explorers all came with strong, 8.8 rear ends with disc brakes, and that such rear ends are cheap and plentiful. Sounds ideal to me, but is anyone here using such a rear in their project? Are there certain models with limited slip to look for, or did all the Explorer read ends have just a standard diff? Anyone know if all were 31-spline?

2) On a standard '29 Tudor Sedan chassis, are there any interchangeable disc hubs that will mount directly on the A spindles? If not, what's the cheapest way to add front disc brakes while retaining the straight (or dropped) front axle?

3) What would be a fair price to pay for a stock front leaf spring in decent condition at a swap meet for said '29 Tudor? How about a usable (not necessarily pretty) passenger door for same?

4) Is there an inexpensive coil-over shock suitable for a relatively lightweight '29 Tudor/4-link setup?

5) Anybody here using a (oem) power brake booster on their A project? If so, can you tell me what type you used and how you mounted the booster?

6) I'm way ahead of myself, but these questions occupy my mind as I drift off to sleep at night. Any help greatly appreciated! Thanks!


Fred B.

 

[Willowbilly3]

Speedway catalog has a lot of good info on Ford axles. Later spindles can be used with minor modifications and disc brakes are available for them, also new spindles can be bought. A stock front leaf price, I suppose it depends on where you live but not over $50. You can get a Posies super slider from Speedway with the slider buttons for around $125 I think. Mine cost $99 but that was 4 years ago. Good doors bring a premium. Even one that needs patch panels (most do) will generally cost $200+.

 

[Willowbilly3]

You might want to check the want ads here

http://www.ratrodsrule.com/forum/showthread.php?t=13492

 

[ratdog]

I also got a 29 tudor and like you I want to do it on a budget. I don't know what you already have for the front axle set up, but the cheapest way is to get a whole front end ,I got mine for $100, including wishbone,spring , and everything on the axle. The parts you don't need can go on ebay to get a few bucks back. The easiest disk set up is to get new spindles with kingpins fitted and disk brakes to fit from speedway motors. It is not that pricey and you know it will all work and is new with forged spindles. The stock ones are not supposed to be very strong. I looked at cheaper alternatives too but it seems a lot of time and hassle and won't really save much in the end,and you still have some used old stuff.

 

[ratdog]

There is some company advertising coilovers for lighter vehicles for $ 100 each in street rodder mag, don't think they have a website thou.

 

[jackjohn]

as far as the explorer 8.8, bought one this weekend, spent 2 hours sunday cutting off org mounts and grinding smooth. stopped there for family time, came in tues nite, decided to look it over, somthing didnt look right. got out the tape and sure nuff the pinion shaft is not centered, one side 22 in to backing plate, other side 26 in approx. dont understand how it worked in the explorer. any body know? any way found a 8 in on cl, gonna pick it up saturday.

good luck on progect, john

 

[ratdog]

I think the offset is on some 4X4 's if the transfercase output is offset , I guess the two wheel drive once would be the ones to get the rear end out off if there are any, some rangers have the 8.8 also.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

Speedway catalog has a lot of good info on Ford axles. Later spindles can be used with minor modifications and disc brakes are available for them, also new spindles can be bought. A stock front leaf price, I suppose it depends on where you live but not over $50. You can get a Posies super slider from Speedway with the slider buttons for around $125 I think. Mine cost $99 but that was 4 years ago. Good doors bring a premium. Even one that needs patch panels (most do) will generally cost $200+.

Thanks for the info, Billy! I just need a cheapo original leaf for the front so I can move the chassis around if I need to. But I understand what you're saying: why waste $50 on a stock leaf that I may not end up using when I can get a Posies super slider for around $125, right? Makes sense, thanks.

I see a Triple R member in Canada has a nice passenger door for sale at $125, but local pick up only Canada's a fur piece from Dallas


Fred B.

 

[LarryH]

1) I've read that second-generation ('95-'01) Ford Explorers all came with strong, 8.8 rear ends with disc brakes, and that such rear ends are cheap and plentiful. Sounds ideal to me, but is anyone here using such a rear in their project? Are there certain models with limited slip to look for, or did all the Explorer read ends have just a standard diff? Anyone know if all were 31-spline?

All the '95-'01 Explorers have 31 spline axles. They come in an open dif or a posi. There's several different gear ratios starting at 3:73 up to 4:10. The Ranger has 28 spline axles.

One draw back (easily fixed) is rather than welding the tubes into the diff housing, the tubes are just held in with pressed-in plugs. These plugs tend to stop doing their job under severe stress, so you really should weld the tubes to the housing with low-hydrogen rod.

They're really popular with the Jeep crowd. I had one in my YJ that was set up for rock crawling and it worked great

 

[Blue Eyed Devil]

I see a Triple R member in Canada has a nice passenger door for sale at $125, but local pick up only

I'm in Ohio, not Canada. Not that it is much closer to Dallas! Haha. I could probably put it on the Greyhound if there is a station near you. It's not the fastest, but definitely the cheapest way to ship large items. Let me know...

 

[Willowbilly3]

I think mosr Ford rear ends have the pinion offset a little.
I bet if you look around Dallas you can find a usable door, lots of A stuff in that country still. Hit the big Pate swap at the Motorplex or go to the swap in Decaur, it is a good one. If you want to get out a little further Chikasha Oklahoma has 3 a year and the one is pre-war only (that would be WW2) I could hook you up with a couple good A guys near Dallas but they don't like hotrods much and probably wouldn't sell you anything if they knew what it was for.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

I also got a 29 tudor and like you I want to do it on a budget. I don't know what you already have for the front axle set up, but the cheapest way is to get a whole front end ,I got mine for $100, including wishbone,spring , and everything on the axle. The parts you don't need can go on ebay to get a few bucks back. The easiest disk set up is to get new spindles with kingpins fitted and disk brakes to fit from speedway motors. It is not that pricey and you know it will all work and is new with forged spindles. The stock ones are not supposed to be very strong. I looked at cheaper alternatives too but it seems a lot of time and hassle and won't really save much in the end,and you still have some used old stuff.

Excellent, thanks Dog. Right now I just have the original frame, front axle, spindles, brakes and, pardon my ignorance, whatever those arms are called that connect the axle back to the crossmember. Trouble is, I think I'd prefer a professionally done dropped axle (with properly aligned geometry), so I may just go that route. I'll have to check that Speedway catalog though... sounds like the bees knees.

Good luck on your own '29 Dog! Hopefully yours will get done much sooner than mine


Fred B.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

All the '95-'01 Explorers have 31 spline axles. They come in an open dif or a posi. There's several different gear ratios starting at 3:73 up to 4:10. The Ranger has 28 spline axles.

One draw back (easily fixed) is rather than welding the tubes into the diff housing, the tubes are just held in with pressed-in plugs. These plugs tend to stop doing their job under severe stress, so you really should weld the tubes to the housing with low-hydrogen rod.

They're really popular with the Jeep crowd. I had one in my YJ that was set up for rock crawling and it worked great

Wow! Thanks for the info, Larry! Do you know anything about the offset John mentioned? Would that be a problem for my application, or do I need to find one that's centered? Is it a 2x4 vs 4x4 thing?


Fred B.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

I'm in Ohio, not Canada. Not that it is much closer to Dallas! Haha. I could probably put it on the Greyhound if there is a station near you. It's not the fastest, but definitely the cheapest way to ship large items. Let me know...

IM sent, Devil!


Fred B.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

I bet if you look around Dallas you can find a usable door, lots of A stuff in that country still. Hit the big Pate swap at the Motorplex or go to the swap in Decaur, it is a good one. If you want to get out a little further Chikasha Oklahoma has 3 a year and the one is pre-war only (that would be WW2) I could hook you up with a couple good A guys near Dallas but they don't like hotrods much and probably wouldn't sell you anything if they knew what it was for.

Yeah, I'm planning to attend the Pate swap next weekend and the guy I bought the Tudor from did mention Chikasha as having lots of A Model stuff. Looks like I may be able to work something out with Blue Eyed Devil though. Maybe. I still gotta find that body header piece that goes above the passenger door too though. Maybe I'll get lucky at Pate.


Fred B.

 

[Shea Laking]

as far as the explorer 8.8, bought one this weekend, spent 2 hours sunday cutting off org mounts and grinding smooth. stopped there for family time, came in tues nite, decided to look it over, somthing didnt look right. got out the tape and sure nuff the pinion shaft is not centered, one side 22 in to backing plate, other side 26 in approx. dont understand how it worked in the explorer. any body know? any way found a 8 in on cl, gonna pick it up saturday.

good luck on progect, john

You have to take into consideration how a differential works. Basically, the pinion gear inputs power sent back through the driveshaft. The pinion gear meshes to the larger ring gear, thus turning the input power (or rotation) 90 degrees and driving the differential unit, then the axles, then the rear wheels.

To get to where I was going (in a roundabout way), either the ring gear or pinion gear will have to be placed off-center in order to have space for both in the differential housing.

I just went to my garage and did a really quick measurement of the Trans Am posi and the rear in my S-Truck, with the same result-They both have the pinion offset to the right (passenger) side, by 1-2 inches. They are both integral carrier diffs, like your Explorer 8.8. An earlier Ford 8 or 9 inch is called a "removeable carrier" differential, where the entire differential unit unbolts and removes from the front of the housing. The integral carrier diff has a removeable inspection plate on the rear side, which unbolts to change gearing, do maintenance or repairs. Even the 8 or 9 inch diffs have offset pinions, if I recall correctly.

The 4WD thing may be the reason for part of the pinion offset, but it would be there regardless.

Hope this helps.

Regards,
Shea

 

[BigIrish]

I don't think an explorer 8.8 is wide enough unless you plan on cutting out fender wells. Get a 8.8 from a crown vic or town car (I did on my tudor). Its just the right width, the pumpkin is centered and if you get a later town car rear end you can get limited slip and disk brakes.

 

[CrashTestDummy]

I don't think an explorer 8.8 is wide enough unless you plan on cutting out fender wells. Get a 8.8 from a crown vic or town car (I did on my tudor). Its just the right width, the pumpkin is centered and if you get a later town car rear end you can get limited slip and disk brakes.

Ohhhh, that's good to know! Do you happen to have a year range for the limited slip/disk brake rears? Did all late model Crown Vics and Town Cars have 8.8s? (Guess I should learn to ID 8.8s by sight, huh?)


Fred B.

 

[jackjohn]

8.8 rear

my 8.8 is from a 2wd, and it is 60 in wheelmount to wheelmount, my org model a rear is 59 in. hope this helps.
john








life lessions learned
dont sweat the petty stuff and
dont pet the sweatty stuff!!!! lol

 

[CrashTestDummy]

my 8.8 is from a 2wd, and it is 60 in wheelmount to wheelmount, my org model a rear is 59 in. hope this helps.
john

John, is that a Crown Vic or an Explorer you're talking about?


Fred B.