my roadster on a budget

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so i had a very antisocial rat rod hermit sunday. but i made some progress! im sure chuckles will be happy to hear it does "spring" and it feels pretty awsome! I had to make a couple changes from the pics i last posted. first i pulled the center pin out of the leaf pack and added the other half of the leafsprings i cut in half. then i drilled a new hole for the center pin that pulled them foward 4" so there was not so much leverage on the leafs then i welded a piece of tube through the chassis and went with 2 chains on each side. it looks way cleaner than running one chain and wrapping it underneath. and then the moment of truth came when i lowered the jack down i was hoping i didnt spend 2 days wasting my time on something that wouldnt work but the springs held it up. YESSS!! it sits a little to high right now but once i get the back on its wheels i think it will be just right, and i can just put longer chains on it to lower it. the front is on its wheels and it steers not bad for a car that didnt exist 2 weeks ago![;)
 

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Very interesting front end set up, I've looked and looked and still can't figure out how it works. Could you give us some more pics and a little insight into how it's supposed to function? If you would have put a little swoop on the top bar of the (cab) area it would resemble a T-bucket. I like it, keep us posted.
 
A couple of quick questions about the suspension. It looks like the tension is upward on the spring eyes most of the time. But will it be when you are backing up. I know the axle is not under power, like a 4x4, but it appears the spring will want to come down when backing. It also seems like the suspension, though captured, will rattle. I see the radius arms will locate the axle, (along with a panhard bar), so caster is not as much of an issue. But it looks as though the chains will gain and loose tension, as the suspension cycles?
 
Very interesting front end set up, I've looked and looked and still can't figure out how it works. Could you give us some more pics and a little insight into how it's supposed to function? If you would have put a little swoop on the top bar of the (cab) area it would resemble a T-bucket. I like it, keep us posted.

Thats funny. It seems so simple to me but every time i show someone the pics, or talk about it they just look at me with a confused look on their face. [S

The wheels hold up the beam. The radius arm keeps the beam from rocking front to back by connecting it to the chassis with th long arm. (its better to do it with two arms to eliminate castor angle change but im broke and i didnt want to buy 4 more heims) The leaf springs attach to the spring perches on top of the beam with the stock u-bolts and curve upward quite a bit when theres no weight on them. I cut the stock leaf springs in half and doubled them up. The chassis hangs from the leafsprings with the chain. Its actually almost a 1:1 pull on the spring since there is only a couple of degrees of castor change throughout the 6" of wheel travel im trying to get.

I actually made a little video of me jumping on it and cycling the suspension but it dissapeared of my camera somehow ill try again tonight i think i didnt save it right or something
 
A couple of quick questions about the suspension. It looks like the tension is upward on the spring eyes most of the time. But will it be when you are backing up. I know the axle is not under power, like a 4x4, but it appears the spring will want to come down when backing. It also seems like the suspension, though captured, will rattle. I see the radius arms will locate the axle, (along with a panhard bar), so caster is not as much of an issue. But it looks as though the chains will gain and loose tension, as the suspension cycles?

When the suspension is at full droop, or when i jack the chassis up all the way till it hits the rear steering tie rod the chassis is about 8-10" off the ground. i have to pre load the spring by standing on it and sliding the bolt through to attach the chain. when i let the jack down the chassis settles down about 3".

So in a nut shell the chains are always in tension. and the front axel is attached to the chassis with a 3/4" heim and a 5/8" grade 8 bolt with a stover metal lock nut it does not rattle. I cant even get the chassis to shift side to side if i try, the chain kind of holds it . but im still gonna run a panhard bar.
 
I see how your front end is supposed to work, and I have two concerns:
1. Bump steer, and plenty of it, and
2. Half leaves tend to lose their arch over a relatively short time.

Not bashin' on your design, just pointing out some safety concerns I have. I might be full of it and it might work well.
My $0.02
 
I see how your front end is supposed to work, and I have two concerns:
1. Bump steer, and plenty of it, and
2. Half leaves tend to lose their arch over a relatively short time.

Not bashin' on your design, just pointing out some safety concerns I have. I might be full of it and it might work well.
My $0.02

I cycled the suspension without my beautiful chains attached and it cycled 8" of wheel travel and had about 1/16" of total bump steer.

I've installed some long travel suspension kits from big name companys that had up to 1 1/2" of bump steer. Have you ever seen 4x4 twin traction beams like a bronco or f-150 cycle.:eek:

As for the sagging half leafs. I'm spending 0$ on holding up this car. Thats hard to do. if i have to pull the leafpack off every couple years and take it 15 min. from my house to deaver leafsprings. and get them re-arched for $40 bucks. No big deal.
 
I like it! I don't see any bumpsteer issue... and the springs should hold up fine. Can't wait to see the body.

Thank you sir. i cant wait either, i think the 2" tubing is big enough diameter to look like a formed sheet metal body from a distance than BAM. its just some sheet metal welded to pipes!

Oh ya the 4x10 of 18 gauge was $64.00 which brings me to a grand total of $314.00 ive spent on materials. good thing i had a off road shop for 4 years and had crates full of hardware and heims, i would have already hit the thousand mark.
 
be careful what you wish for ive been slammed with work and now my rat rods is moving forward at a snails pace. oh well ,itll be done when its done i guess i was suppose to be doing brodies by now.
a little progress though
 

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Id like to add my concerns to the frame being a tad on the wimpy side. Oh im sure it will hold up under normal conditions, but when that 16 yr old showing off in his daddys truck hits you at 80, well thats different.
 
Id like to add my concerns to the frame being a tad on the wimpy side. Oh im sure it will hold up under normal conditions, but when that 16 yr old showing off in his daddys truck hits you at 80, well thats different.

No early car is capable of handing that. If you are scared of that, drive a volvo (and yes I have been in a nasty wreck that was not my fault).
 
Id like to add my concerns to the frame being a tad on the wimpy side. Oh im sure it will hold up under normal conditions, but when that 16 yr old showing off in his daddys truck hits you at 80, well thats different.

2"x.120 is the same material monster trucks and trophy truck chassis are made out of.
My car will probably weigh in at well under 3000 pounds and i plan on slowly cruising up pacific coast highway to find hot chicks. I think ill be fine.
 
I'd like to see some more pics, and explanation on the front suspension!!
I can't figure out how it works??? I like it!!!

this is the best i can explain it was a couple pages back

The wheels hold up the beam. The radius arm keeps the beam from rocking front to back by connecting it to the chassis with th long arm. (its better to do it with two arms to eliminate castor angle change but im broke and i didnt want to buy 4 more heims) The leaf springs attach to the spring perches on top of the beam with the stock u-bolts and curve upward quite a bit when theres no weight on them. I cut the stock leaf springs in half and doubled them up. The chassis hangs from the leafsprings with the chain. Its actually almost a 1:1 pull on the spring since there is only a couple of degrees of castor change throughout the 6" of wheel travel im trying to get.
 
How bout some more pics of that front suspension Mr. Clayton???

Looks interesting,Thanks for sharing!!!!


Never mind that hadn't loaded on the com. yet!!!
 

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