New member from Tempe, AZ. Going to look at first rat rod tonight!

[PapaVolume]

Good afternoon! My name is Tom, I'm 26 and I just moved to Tempe AZ from NJ in May so I could look for work more in the hot rod/rat rod/kustoms field instead of the general auto repair industry like I was doing back home.

Arizona holds a lot more potential for me when it comes to locating my first project and I think I may have found one.

The car im going to look at in about 5 hours is a 1954 Ford Customline. I was told it has a new 19 circuit wiring harness in it, new brake lines, newer interior(custom) and power steering rack & pinion. I was also told it has a 350ci motor bored .040 over, 2 pc rear main, ported heads, headers, flowmaster dual exhaust, 700r4 trans and IDK what rear end. He said its very reliable and daily driver worthy although it would just be a weekend cruiser for me.

Heres a few pics of the car:

Now never having owned a classic car, except for a 71 skylark that was my first car, im not too sure what too look for or look out for when I go look at it. Does anyone have any suggestions or tips for me? I already have some changes in mind for it so I hope the car is in pretty nice shape. I did read somewhere that these cars are harder to lower because of the shallow driveshaft tunnel so you would need to cut out and fab up a new tunnel. Does the car above look like it sits at factory height?

Id like to make it a low cruiser, with enough power to bust the tires loose pretty easy, nothing crazy.

Thanks for everyones help in advance, you can bet you will be seeing a lot more of me on the forums, especially if I buy this car!

 

[SugarRay8]

Welcome Tom

I’d say drive it, if it all works as good as he states and the price/condition match for your taste, then get it. As for ride height, I had a 55’ that sat very close to this one completely stock.

Best of luck!

 

[rainman]

Welcome to the site!!! I'm not real familiar with these models, but first I would check out the quality of workmanship that has already been done! If any or all is done shoddy, you may have to redo the whole car!!! That would lower the value considerably!!
If previous work looks good, make sure to check floor pans, piller corners, trunk, and so on for rust. If it's in Ar. I wouldn't suspect rust to be a big issue! Someone else on here could probably comment on the d/s tunnel, but I do know you see many many of these shoebox cars slammed, so I wouldn't think it would be a huge issue!!!

Good luck, if you get it we love pics!!!

 

[PapaVolume]

the current asking price is $4500. which isnt too bad i think, if it looks good i think i would feel more comfortable around $4000.

and I will definitely post some pics up if I decide to make the purchase

 

[Sam_Fear]

Welcome to RRR!

All I can say is look for shoddy work - especially underneath. We've all seen some horror story pictures of cool looking looking kustoms on top and hack jobs underneath. Blob welds, filler abuse, weak materials, unsafe steering/suspension configuration, etc.

I'd check out how well that suspension and steering was installed. You don't want to have to rip it all out and replace it.

Just don't get scammed by some sleeze trying to pass off a slap together job for quick cash.

 

[rustybeercan]

All I can say is look for shoddy work - especially underneath. We've all seen some horror story pictures of cool looking looking kustoms on top and hack jobs underneath. Blob welds, filler abuse, weak materials, unsafe steering/suspension configuration, etc.

I'd check out how well that suspension and steering was installed. You don't want to have to rip it all out and replace it.

Great advice from Sam Fear. First I'd check for oil and water leaks. Start the engine and see if there is any blow-by coming out of the oil filler hole on the valve covers. Make sure the tranny shifts well and check out the tires, don't want to have to replace tires immediately after purchase. Try the electrical system, lights, brights, blinkers, brake lights etc to make sure they are working properly. Take the ground wire off the battery and then touch it to the negative post, if it sparks there could be a small drain that could run the battery down. If you have an amp meter you can check between the ground cable & the negative post, there shouldn't be more that a .8 amp draw. Let it sit and idle for a while to see if it will over heat, or let it idle for a while after you take it for a drive and see how it does. When you drive it, make sure it tracks well on the road and doesn't pull one way or the other during braking. See if the doors, hood and trunk shut properly and if the glass is good and the windows roll up and down properly. Make sure it has an in-line or some sort of gas filter, if it's see through see how dirty or clean it is. Look under the carpets or floor covering to see if the floorboards are rusted, rust can be a problem on old Fords. Just my .02, good luck and welcome to the forum! Have fun, be safe and let us know how it goes!

Beercan

 

[PapaVolume]

i really appreciate all the advice, i think ill stock pile it all and form it into a checklist i can print out and bring with me for future purchases. definitely some great information.


As for the 54 ford pictured above, i didnt buy it, it had quite a bit of rust on the body panels as well as other places. the interior looked pretty good. but it just didnt feel right, so i let this one go.....the search continues! if anyone knows of any cool 30s or 50s rides for sale in the AZ area lemme know!

 

[Sam_Fear]

Keep in mind, usually you'll just have surface rust in AZ, compared to the rot through your used too in NJ.

 

[Old Iron]

Welcome to the site, find out if the tranny is an early 80's or mid to late 80's.
The early 80's were very weak and will cause you trouble. Since it's in the vehicle you'll have to go by the numbers on the case.

 

[PapaVolume]

Keep in mind, usually you'll just have surface rust in AZ, compared to the rot through your used too in NJ.

yeah surface rust I can deal with. but this car had complete rot through in quite a few areas. i dont think its an original south west car by the looks of it.

 

[rainman]

Probably a wise move!!! It's not the only car for sale out there!!

 

[PapaVolume]

certainly isnt, im headed to look at a 55 customline tonight, its a 4 door instead of a coupe but sounds more promising than the other, at least in terms or having a solid body and all. Still has the original small displacement v8 so i would have to do some work in that area. But i would rather a car with no rust than a rusty car with a better motor.

another car i found was a 1970 tempest, looks really clean, nice flat black paint(not spray can primer), rebuilt olds 455, and interior work. Its a little newer than I was looking for but might be something to consider if I can get it for the price I want.

 

[DJ3100]

Welcome to Tempe.

Cars rust in Arizona, especially when they're 50+ years old. My '53 in the avatar was rusted through the floor, rear cab corners, and front cab corners. It had never been out of Arizona. Don't buy the "it's an Arizona car -no rust" bill of goods people try to sell.

 

[niterunner71]

Welcome to the site, find out if the tranny is an early 80's or mid to late 80's.
The early 80's were very weak and will cause you trouble. Since it's in the vehicle you'll have to go by the numbers on the case.

welcome to the site. agree with OldIron IMO a turbo 350 would be your best bet

 

[niterunner71]

any old car is gonna have rust. thats just a fact of life. so I wouldn't let a little rust scare me away. people go crazy when they see the usual floor and rocker rust on a 50+ year old car. Its not like it can't be fixed

 

[Sam_Fear]

Cars rust in Arizona, especially when they're 50+ years old. My '53 in the avatar was rusted through the floor, rear cab corners, and front cab corners.

Yeah - like I said, surface rust.