P15/Dakoda

[TudorP15]

I am a newbie, and if you would like to read some about me, and my resume, I introduced myself in the introduction forum.

But here, I would like to pose a question. I have been into rods for many years. Into home built rods in the garage by normal workin class dawgs like me. Been out of the loop for years due to an accedent, so I need some direction in this new age.

I have a P15 Plymouth, 2 door sedan. My 13 year old daughter had laid claim on my Plymouth since she was 2 years old. She loves the car. I am wanting to update it to make it more reliable for a young teen to drive. I am considering pulling the body off and setting it on a current chassis and running gear. I am thinking a Dodge Dakota chassis with maybe a 318/auto. Does anyone know of anyone that has done something like that? I think the wheelbases are similar, and would like to find some resources for a Dakoda chassis swap is there is any.

Thanks

 

[PhilJohnson]

Seems to me the track width might be too wide. Unless the original frame is totally hashed I don't see the point in swapping frames. Swap in a different rear end, change the front drums over to disc brakes (there are kits out there). New front end parts are still out there. No reason why the stock stuff couldn't be made to work. Old Mopars handle pretty decent. I've had two of them and they handle at least as well as any 80s or 90s pickup if not better.

 

[42chevy]

I am not sure of anyone who has done it, but if the wheelbase and track width is close enough it can be done. Are you capable of doing the welding ? It will need new body mounts and radiator supports , etc. Have you thought about just clipping the front? The rear is an easy thing thing to swap and clipping is usually a little easier. Any pics of the car? It is cool your daughter is one of us from the sounds of it.

 

[TudorP15]

When I say "newbie" I mean to the forum, not the hobby. been in the hobby for 30 years, (but out of the loop for the past 8 or so years) I can't do as much as i used to due to a disability over the last 10 years. I do weld but haven't done much in years. My welding in the past is mostly body fab stuff and light chassis fab like body mounts and things like that. I did do a MII front end graft on a 49 GMC years ago, but a friend did the structure welding, and I did the lighter welding. Again, most my expertise in welding is body fab with a wire feed. I still have my lincoln wire feed, and an AC/DC arc, but may need to farm out some of the actual welding.

But yes, my daughter is definatly one of us. She has loved my cars over the years, and I have never been able to turn a wrench on one without her right by my side since before she was 2 years of age. The funny thing is I have 3 grown sons, none of which ever taken any interests in my cars. They always wanted to drive em, but never ever interested in the builds, or maintenance of them. They are envious that my daughter gets my Plymouth, but understand why she gets it and they don't <grin>. Yeah, they have regrets now, hahha..

 

[Willowbilly3]

What's a P15?
I have heard those old early 50s Plymouths are about as nice a driving car as you could want. I wouldn't screw with it except for better brakes.

 

[TudorP15]

The P15 was built from 1946-1948, into early 1949 (1st series). The 2nd series 49 was a different body completely. And yes, it does drive very nice, but I would like to go with a 2 stage brakes for safety with the kid in it. The brakes in those are hydrolic, but only a frame mounted single stage MC, so if it blows a seal, or otherwise goes out, you have NO brake at all.

The P15 came in several body styles, 4 dr sedan, 2 door sedan (mine), and the coupes (business, deluxe). Here is a pic of my 48 2dr sedan.

The P15 was the last of Mopars "fat fenders" really, because 2nd series 1949 bodies were more leaning to the "shoebox" body. 2nd series on was kinda a hybred between the fats, and the shoebox bodies of the 50s.

 

[440Clark]

It's really not that difficult to swap to a modern, dual reservoir, master cylinder. A really versitle one is the MoPar aluminum body, plastic reservoir one from the 90's. There is an adapter plate you can buy to make mounting it easy and it comes with an adjustable pushrod, (if memory serves me). It comes in two different bore sizes, (harder pedal, shorter stroke) or (softer pedal, longer stroke). If you used an 8 3/4 w/ stock drums and something in the order of 11" stock MoPar disc set-up in front, an adjustable proportioning valve and possibly a residual pressure valve for the rears would get you close to ideal brakes.

Easiest place to buy would be Summit Racing.

Now,realize I've kind of over-simplified this. You will have to research the compatability of mastercylinder bore and volume vs. front caliper or wheel cylinder piston dia. and volume, and rear caliper or wheel cylinder pistion dia. and volume. That is why I suggest looking at it as a complete-type swap to stock MoPar componants.

 

[Sam_Fear]

I'm betting the track width of a Dakota is way too wide - 60+ inches I believe.

 

[TudorP15]

Might be..

I know it's been done, but haven't taken any measurements for myself. If the track is too wide, then it's not gonna happen without major surgery that I don't want to get into these days. But, I seen it done on KillBillet.com but couldn't get to the threads. I tried to register on that site several times so I can talk to the guy that did it, but for whatever reason, I was denied registration. I don't know why, or who I could talk to with them to find out why my registration kept getting denied, because I really wanted to contact the guy that did a P15/Dakoda marriage. But, oh well.. <shrug>.

At any rate, this is early research really. I am going to pull the ol Plymouth out of the garage this next spring and get her back on the road in it's current state, then start doing serious homework as to what I want to do to make it teenage girl safe and proof. My daughter wants so bad to drive the thing, and I can't blame her, it's been part of her life since she was born, and she has memories of being strapped in a car seat in the back on road trips. She always had such a huge smile on her face sitting in that sedan. She's 13 now, and I caught her just a week ago sitting in it in the garage.

Anyway, I am going to teach her to drive a standard, but this is a 3 on the tree, and would like to go on the floor, or even an auto for her, as well as a brake upgrade at least. I like the flat 6 in these things, and this one has a later 1957 Dodge Military truck flat 6 in it, and tough as nails. So, a good motor for her to stick with if I stay with it the way it is.

She as do I want to go "Rat' on it tho, because we just like the look. Thinking about a flat baby blue with it, or flat red oxide with it. Thought about a matt, or flat black, But I think it's too big a car to go that dark. Gonna go painted rims with baby moons, WWW radials to give it the old school look. Thinking about bomber seats up front, even tho I have a hard time getting in and out of those myself with my size (Yeah, even tho it is going to be built for her, Dad still wants to drive it, lol). We plan to strip most the stainless on it, and what we leave want to go brushed stainless, or brushed nickel finish. We have been talking about it's look for some time now. Spring we hope to get started on the old girl. By the way, the P15s name has always been "Eleanor" and what my daughter has always called her.

 

[WUWU20]

Not sure how wide the track is on a Dakota, but its alot wider then say a S10, Dakota's need a + offset wheel because the track is so wide even tho its a "mid" sized truck, also if you went with a Dakota chassis you would want to use a 87-89 (4 and 6 cyl only execpt Shelby) because of its lug pattern, these had the same as a small 5 bolt Ford pattern, the 90's up to 2005 have a 6 bolt that is very hard to find a nice after market wheel for. I have had 5 Dakota's, and one 89 Shelby Dakota, great trucks but that bolt pattern sucks.

 

[mopar4life]

I have a 99 dakota rt and a 47 dodge coupe. I would stay away from the 6 lug leaving you with first and second gen dakota's (cheaper). Personally I would work on the p15 as is. I made my front disc "kit", installed a neon rack and pinion, and have a 8 3/4 in it. The work involved to put a different frame under it compared to making it more sound would be greater. The upgrades could match the dakota. I know you have stated you're past, but think of this: what leaves a most rodder walking home, engine trouble not chassis geometry. Brakes and steering can be updated, axels and trannys can be changed. Once you start merging a car onto another frame who knows what will come. You have a drivable car just make it safer.

Thanks for keeping it mopar either way[cl

 

[TudorP15]

Good point all. I am going to think long and hard on keeping her the way she is with the exception of the brakes. Might even leave the 3 sp on the tree. Who knows the daughter might like that... I been thinking how much I love that flat head in it, and it is really a strong reliable motor.